Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

Did you have to change out the input shaft with the pinion on it? Looked to me like the G37 pumpkins had a 3 bolt setup.

Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

Just looked up the g37 swap. I have some quest ions lol. What's the deal with thw output shafts and the abs sensor. Some guy in another thread was apparently having trouble because the g37 shafts have less teeth on those gears the sensor reads.

Or if you could just point me to a thread with all the info. Or If you could PM and we could talk on the phone I'm sure we could relay this info much faster and clearer. It would be very much appreciated.

I don't think spending the 2k on a built rear end will be worth it but a g37 vlsd swap definitely would. How is the higher gearing? Like what is the engine rpm @ at 85 or so?

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

The manual will have the round input flange like ours, that's the one you want to get. Manual to manual should be a straight swap IIRC. Maybe mr.sparco can elaborate as he did the swap, it's been a minute since I did the research. I swear there is a how to somewhere on this site...

Bmsluite

iTrader: (1)

Well I found you need to find 1)find a manual one and 2) splice in the new abs sensors. Which.... has proven super hard to find. To find a manual g37, with the sport package, WITH low miles is essentially impossible.

All those cars have over 100k miles now. I'm sure the vlsd is fried. Or is all the hype about them wearing out B'S?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

If you have ever jacked up the car in the rear..

a car with an open diff the wheel will spin freely with the other rear wheel on the ground.

With a limited slip it will turn but have noticeable resistance...

a locked rear it will not spin.

Easy as pie no burn out needed.

mr. sparco

iTrader: (13)

You need a manual 6MT 370Z/G pumpkin to get the 3.69 final drive. 370Z/G AT pumpkins come with the 3.3 final drive which is the same as the 350z AT. The AT has a 3 bolt flange and the manual has a 4 bolt flange. The output shaft on the 370Z/G has a different number of splines so your speedo will read about +3 mph IIRC. You cannot use your open diff output shafts, you'll need 350z vlsd output shafts IIRC. Z1 sells beefed up versions, but they are not cheap.

The higher revs are barely noticeable on the highway @ 80mph its like +500 rpms or some marginal amount. I also own an Evo X which revs at 4k rpms @80 mph, so my Z @80 feels fully relaxed. I jumped on the one that I got since it was nearly brand new, been also hunting for a Nismo 3.9 rear pumpkin, but those come in at around $1K+ with higher mileage. My Z has less than 40k miles so looking for a diff that's lower than that has proven difficult. VLSD diffs do wear out, so obviously the lower the mileage the better.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

This one had 210k on it and worked just fine.


the outside sure looked like trash though, thanks road salt.