Are Drilled and Slotted rotors lighter than Oem Rotors??
04-30-2022, 11:10 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Are Drilled and Slotted rotors lighter than Oem Rotors??
Just a quick question since im pretty big on weight reduction on my Hr but i picked up some Eline Drilled and Slotted Rotors from R1 Concept and just wanted to know if they are lighter than Oem rotors? I wont be installing them yet probably in the next couple weeks i will since my car is getting the Front bumper resprayed again and at the body shop currently. I would go with the Z1 2 peice rotors but i dont have Brembo or the Akebono Calipers for them to fit and aint tryna spend $3-4k for the 2peice rotors and Calipers lol. Im guessing Drilled and Slotted are slightly lighter than Oem??
05-01-2022, 09:56 AM
#2
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
I think all things considered they are lighter apples to apples …
I dont think you want to save weight in your brake system though??
In my brain - your brakes are a system that takes mechanical energy (in the form of a vehicle moving at a given speed) and transforms that kinetic energy into themro energy in the form of friction, stored in your rotors and to be disipated from the rotor to the ambient air.
Your brake rotors are how much thermo energy can be stored at any one given time.
If your rotors are smaller and lighter, I think it’s safe to say that they have a reduced thermal capacity. (Side note - which may be perfectly fine for straight-line 1/8mi or 1/4mi racing)
If you really want to reduce weight from the brakes it will be with a carbon ceramic kit … and if you’re not trying to spend $3k to $4k for the kit, than you probably dont want to spend $3k to $4k per corner.
With that being said - you are on the right track and reducing rotating mass is very smart. I would look to find cost ecomonoical ways to reduce rotating mass in other areas.
A few ‘low hanging fruit’ items would be:
Lighter wheels
Swap out the OEM crank pulley for a harmonic dampening pull and remove the AC pulley portion
Remove AC
Drop down in serpentine belt size & ribs (I know, I’m batsh!t crazy)
Remove power steering (consider going electric power steering but this means more draw from the alternator)
Get a lighter flywheel and clutch/pressure plate assembly
I believe Driveshaft Shop’s aluminim drive shaft is lighter than the OEM carbon fiber drive shaft.
If you need other weight savings tips, guidelines, thoughts, heirarchy, discussion points let me know - my ‘03 touring came in around 3400lbs (with a supercharger) and I’m down to 2800lbs with a single turbo setup. Still pecking away at weight savings and I think I can get the car down to 2600lbs before it’s all said and done. I have a weight reduction thread on the other 350z tech forum (search: official 3poin5 weight reduction thread)
Weight savings is a double edge sword and the further you go down the rabbit hole the car becomes less comfortable to drive (dont do this to your daily driver).
You will get down to around 3200lbs and weight will become harder and harder to remove and will become exponentially more expensive. Roughly speaking - I am spending about $5 to $10 per pound removed from the rear of the car and $20 to $50 per pound on the front of the carf (if that makes sense).
I dont think you want to save weight in your brake system though??
In my brain - your brakes are a system that takes mechanical energy (in the form of a vehicle moving at a given speed) and transforms that kinetic energy into themro energy in the form of friction, stored in your rotors and to be disipated from the rotor to the ambient air.
Your brake rotors are how much thermo energy can be stored at any one given time.
If your rotors are smaller and lighter, I think it’s safe to say that they have a reduced thermal capacity. (Side note - which may be perfectly fine for straight-line 1/8mi or 1/4mi racing)
If you really want to reduce weight from the brakes it will be with a carbon ceramic kit … and if you’re not trying to spend $3k to $4k for the kit, than you probably dont want to spend $3k to $4k per corner.
With that being said - you are on the right track and reducing rotating mass is very smart. I would look to find cost ecomonoical ways to reduce rotating mass in other areas.
A few ‘low hanging fruit’ items would be:
Lighter wheels
Swap out the OEM crank pulley for a harmonic dampening pull and remove the AC pulley portion
Remove AC
Drop down in serpentine belt size & ribs (I know, I’m batsh!t crazy)
Remove power steering (consider going electric power steering but this means more draw from the alternator)
Get a lighter flywheel and clutch/pressure plate assembly
I believe Driveshaft Shop’s aluminim drive shaft is lighter than the OEM carbon fiber drive shaft.
If you need other weight savings tips, guidelines, thoughts, heirarchy, discussion points let me know - my ‘03 touring came in around 3400lbs (with a supercharger) and I’m down to 2800lbs with a single turbo setup. Still pecking away at weight savings and I think I can get the car down to 2600lbs before it’s all said and done. I have a weight reduction thread on the other 350z tech forum (search: official 3poin5 weight reduction thread)
Weight savings is a double edge sword and the further you go down the rabbit hole the car becomes less comfortable to drive (dont do this to your daily driver).
You will get down to around 3200lbs and weight will become harder and harder to remove and will become exponentially more expensive. Roughly speaking - I am spending about $5 to $10 per pound removed from the rear of the car and $20 to $50 per pound on the front of the carf (if that makes sense).
Last edited by bealljk; 05-01-2022 at 10:05 AM.
05-05-2022, 11:56 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
I think all things considered they are lighter apples to apples …
I dont think you want to save weight in your brake system though??
In my brain - your brakes are a system that takes mechanical energy (in the form of a vehicle moving at a given speed) and transforms that kinetic energy into themro energy in the form of friction, stored in your rotors and to be disipated from the rotor to the ambient air.
Your brake rotors are how much thermo energy can be stored at any one given time.
If your rotors are smaller and lighter, I think it’s safe to say that they have a reduced thermal capacity. (Side note - which may be perfectly fine for straight-line 1/8mi or 1/4mi racing)
If you really want to reduce weight from the brakes it will be with a carbon ceramic kit … and if you’re not trying to spend $3k to $4k for the kit, than you probably dont want to spend $3k to $4k per corner.
With that being said - you are on the right track and reducing rotating mass is very smart. I would look to find cost ecomonoical ways to reduce rotating mass in other areas.
A few ‘low hanging fruit’ items would be:
Lighter wheels
Swap out the OEM crank pulley for a harmonic dampening pull and remove the AC pulley portion
Remove AC
Drop down in serpentine belt size & ribs (I know, I’m batsh!t crazy)
Remove power steering (consider going electric power steering but this means more draw from the alternator)
Get a lighter flywheel and clutch/pressure plate assembly
I believe Driveshaft Shop’s aluminim drive shaft is lighter than the OEM carbon fiber drive shaft.
If you need other weight savings tips, guidelines, thoughts, heirarchy, discussion points let me know - my ‘03 touring came in around 3400lbs (with a supercharger) and I’m down to 2800lbs with a single turbo setup. Still pecking away at weight savings and I think I can get the car down to 2600lbs before it’s all said and done. I have a weight reduction thread on the other 350z tech forum (search: official 3poin5 weight reduction thread)
Weight savings is a double edge sword and the further you go down the rabbit hole the car becomes less comfortable to drive (dont do this to your daily driver).
You will get down to around 3200lbs and weight will become harder and harder to remove and will become exponentially more expensive. Roughly speaking - I am spending about $5 to $10 per pound removed from the rear of the car and $20 to $50 per pound on the front of the carf (if that makes sense).
I dont think you want to save weight in your brake system though??
In my brain - your brakes are a system that takes mechanical energy (in the form of a vehicle moving at a given speed) and transforms that kinetic energy into themro energy in the form of friction, stored in your rotors and to be disipated from the rotor to the ambient air.
Your brake rotors are how much thermo energy can be stored at any one given time.
If your rotors are smaller and lighter, I think it’s safe to say that they have a reduced thermal capacity. (Side note - which may be perfectly fine for straight-line 1/8mi or 1/4mi racing)
If you really want to reduce weight from the brakes it will be with a carbon ceramic kit … and if you’re not trying to spend $3k to $4k for the kit, than you probably dont want to spend $3k to $4k per corner.
With that being said - you are on the right track and reducing rotating mass is very smart. I would look to find cost ecomonoical ways to reduce rotating mass in other areas.
A few ‘low hanging fruit’ items would be:
Lighter wheels
Swap out the OEM crank pulley for a harmonic dampening pull and remove the AC pulley portion
Remove AC
Drop down in serpentine belt size & ribs (I know, I’m batsh!t crazy)
Remove power steering (consider going electric power steering but this means more draw from the alternator)
Get a lighter flywheel and clutch/pressure plate assembly
I believe Driveshaft Shop’s aluminim drive shaft is lighter than the OEM carbon fiber drive shaft.
If you need other weight savings tips, guidelines, thoughts, heirarchy, discussion points let me know - my ‘03 touring came in around 3400lbs (with a supercharger) and I’m down to 2800lbs with a single turbo setup. Still pecking away at weight savings and I think I can get the car down to 2600lbs before it’s all said and done. I have a weight reduction thread on the other 350z tech forum (search: official 3poin5 weight reduction thread)
Weight savings is a double edge sword and the further you go down the rabbit hole the car becomes less comfortable to drive (dont do this to your daily driver).
You will get down to around 3200lbs and weight will become harder and harder to remove and will become exponentially more expensive. Roughly speaking - I am spending about $5 to $10 per pound removed from the rear of the car and $20 to $50 per pound on the front of the carf (if that makes sense).
05-06-2022, 03:18 AM
#4
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
The best way to save weight with rotors is with 2 piece rotors as the aluminum hat is lighter.
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