alternator replaced, now over heating
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Vancouver, wa
alternator replaced, now over heating
Just got a new alternator installed in my 350. Starts runs just like it should EXCEPT now my temperature gauge is reading hot. I swear it's like a never ending battle with this car. Any advice?!
If it just started happening after the alternator replacement, that would point to the belts, but it could be any of the above.
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 85
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From: Ontario, Canada
if you only changed the alternator, then you prolly need to bleed the air from the coolant system some more. the water pump is chain driven by the timing chain so it's likely not to do with the belts
assuming you paid someone to do it, this is what it entails:
to change the alternator, due to the really long bolt, you have to at least remove the plastic fans shroud. to do that, you need to lift it up and above, or below. regardless, either the upper or lower radiator coolant hose must be removed. as a result, even if you didn't do a full drain, you need to bleed the air from the coolant system as if you did.
without properly bleeding it, it will overheat very easily. when it's fully proper, besides blowing hot air off throttle, if you feel the lower coolant hose with your hand it'll be warm. if not, there is still air trapped, behind the thermostat. while not impossible, it is somewhat tedious/difficult to bleed the system in this car without additional equipment
the bleed valve is a plastic screw on the heater core hose (you will find it by the passenger side, on the rubber hose leading off the coolant hard pipe under the plenum). it is highly recommended to purchase a Lisle funnel (or anything similar) to facilitate easier bleeding. it goes on your radiator replacing the cap during bleeding; it is much faster and can be used on multiple vehicles
there are coolant bleeding guides all over this forum and elsewhere to help you with the process
assuming you paid someone to do it, this is what it entails:
to change the alternator, due to the really long bolt, you have to at least remove the plastic fans shroud. to do that, you need to lift it up and above, or below. regardless, either the upper or lower radiator coolant hose must be removed. as a result, even if you didn't do a full drain, you need to bleed the air from the coolant system as if you did.
without properly bleeding it, it will overheat very easily. when it's fully proper, besides blowing hot air off throttle, if you feel the lower coolant hose with your hand it'll be warm. if not, there is still air trapped, behind the thermostat. while not impossible, it is somewhat tedious/difficult to bleed the system in this car without additional equipment
the bleed valve is a plastic screw on the heater core hose (you will find it by the passenger side, on the rubber hose leading off the coolant hard pipe under the plenum). it is highly recommended to purchase a Lisle funnel (or anything similar) to facilitate easier bleeding. it goes on your radiator replacing the cap during bleeding; it is much faster and can be used on multiple vehicles
there are coolant bleeding guides all over this forum and elsewhere to help you with the process
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