So I bought a 04 350Z from a friend it had been sitting for 2 years. the inside was covered with mold not sure where it's leaking from. But that's the least of my problems. I can't get it to start. So far I've replaced the battery with a brand new one replaced all the spark plugs new air filter. It cranks but does not fire. I also noticed that my snap-on Solus edge diagnostic tool will not connect to the OBD2 port I also try to cheaper OBD scanner and it would not connect either they both just say no connection. My first thought was fuel so I removed the fuel pump and tested it with a small motorcycle battery and some jumpers and it turned on and it spit fuel out. then I blew the fuel line out from the tank into a bucket in the engine bay after disconnecting the fuel rail. After reconnecting the pump I turned the key on and waited for fuel to come out but nothing happened.... So I guess Im not getting power to the pump. I checked all my fuses and even switched the pump relay but still nothing. Any ideas would be appreciated. I also removed the air filter and tried a 3second burst of starting fluid in the intake but no start...

 

ecu

 

Check fuses and grounds first. When it comes to water damage and corrosion (I assume water dmg from the mold growth), the list of possible causes increases exponentially.

Yes, the PCM/ECU could be dead or the anti-theft system could have kicked in as the ignition system is not activating (aside from the starter). One thing is for sure, if you cannot get a diag tool to communicate, you've either got serious wiring faults or a dead/missing PCM. I would start there. Get detailed wiring diagrams from the factory service manual to trace and test wires/continuity. If this is more than you can handle, best to take it to a professional (after you clean up the mold). The PCM is located next to the blower box in the passenger foot well (under the passenger airbag). If this is where the water damage/intrusion is prevalent, it could be as simple as cleaning up corrosion/contacts or slapping a new-used PCM in there. Make sure you got good power and ground reaching the PCM. Note; this needs to be done with care because one mistake could damage the module.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

​​​​​​DO you know what year ECU is interchangeable? Mine is a 04 and I would like to expand my search option

 

OTE=iideadeyeii;11096053]ecu[/QUOTE]
​​​​​​DO you know what year ECU is interchangeable? Mine is a 04 and I would like to expand my search option
​​​​​​

 

There was definitely water on the passenger side I've removed the seat and carpet and dried up the water but there was definitely a puddle under the seat! That's a whole nother problem... I don't have any idea where the water was coming in! I've been trying to figure it out but the carpet is still out and I'm still seeing water when it rains.

 

The are no modules on/in the pasenger side floor, so that's less to worry about. But, depending on how the water got in there (leaking in through the fresh-air intake under the cowl and down the passenger side of the firewall, etc.) something (ECU or wiring) may be damaged.

Back to an earlier suggestion - have you located the FSM (factory service manual)? It is available for download (just need to do a little searching).

Then, I would start with the first issue: why isn't your OBD port working? Get that up and functioning, and then you can move on to what trouble codes may be stored, etc. and continue the troubleshooting.

Good luck!

 

FSM here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

 

Not the same vehicle, but the troubleshooting concepts are applicable in your case. I love Ray's channel, great stuff.


For a PCM/ECU replacement, you need to determine what trim package you have. It's not as simple as saying "I have the AT or 6MT, Coupe or Roadster". You need the additional trim package detail. Is it the base model, enthusiast, track, touring, grand touring, Nismo? A module from some trim packages may be cross compatible, but it's always best to get a unit that came from the same year, body, trans, and trim package. You should be able to start the engine with virtually any PCM from 2003 to early 2005 given you match the transmission (auto or manual) type. But if you don't match the trim level, you may get lots of dash lights on, for example TCS/SLIP since not all trim levels had these features.

You can use a vin-decoder to get the details about your car if you don't know how to spot the differences.

Lastly, swapping PCMs might impact the anti-theft system (take with a grain of salt). I'm not really sure, this system might be embedded in the BCM (body control module). But the point is, you may need an advanced diag tool (capable of two-way comms) to either re-program the PCM or Ignition System (security) to play nice with each other and allow the vehicle to start with your keys.

I'm getting ahead of myself though. You should find out where the water intrusion point is, determining this may lead you to the source of your electrical problems. If you have a roaster/convertible, then the top is the most likely point of entry. If you have a coupe, then I suspect it's the blower box firewall inlet. If the drain gutter system under your windshield wiper cowling is clogged, it's possible water is overflowing the gutter and entering the vehicle above the passenger foot well.

Hope this information helps.
Good Luck!
-Icer

 

Thank you that answers alot of my questions! I have a 6speed manual coupe

 

The VIN decoder will help you know if it's a Base, Enthusiast or Touring Trim.

 

maybe a rodent chewed some of the wiring. I would also try another ecu. Good luck

 

While I was doing some work on my own Z over the weekend in the passenger footwell area, it occurred to me that the Rear Window Washer hose/line is routed here. This could be the source of the water/moisture. It enters through the lower front firewall (Just behind the corner of the carpet, it makes an immediate 90-degree bend down at the grommet through a plastic or rubber elbow) and runs along the side of the floor pan against the rocker panel. If this hose or elbow were damaged, I could see that causing moisture issues, but this would not be continuous unless you use the rear washer sprayer a lot, still just one more item to check.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

Well I removed the battery tray which was full of water and there is a rubber grommet that goes through the firewall directly into the passenger footwell there's a water line with Rusty water where it's just been dumping in all winter with all of the snow that we had so I think I have my leak figured out I still haven't been able to get it started it just feels like I keep pulling more and more off of this car. I still can't figure out why every time I connect the battery the brake pump is just running constantly until the point where it gets hot so I unplug the battery again. right now I have the front bumper cover, passenger side fender, all the plastic shrouds around the motor under the windshield, passenger seat, carpet on the passenger side all removed. The good news is is drying out. Man I want to get this thing running. I still can't even connect to my diagnostic scanner it just says no connection. I have a Snap-On Solus edge diagnostic scanner.

 

Just noticed the red light is on on the dash by the windshield so I'm guessing that anti theft is on! Would that be cutting power to the fuel pump?

 

I tried the vin decoder link and it didn't tell me the trim package....

 

I re-ran my VIN through the tool - I had to go to the equipment tab/section to then see the Enthusiast designation.


On your trouble shooting, if you can post some pics of the area and damage you're finding, that may help others here by jogging their memories of similar troubles they found and solved.

 

I figured out the vin decoder it's a enthusiast

 

If the red light is on solid (not blinking), then yes there's a good chance the anti-theft system has kicked on. That still doesn't explain why you can't scan the PCM or get any communication.

Also, the black hose under the passenger carpet that plugs nearly straight down into the floor pan is the evap-core drain tube (drains the condensation from the AC). There should also be a clear tube for the rear hatch window sprayer that runs along the rocker panel. Make sure that isn't leaking.

-Icer

 

Those hoses are in good condition. I know water was coming in through the firewall through a grommet under the battery tray that didn't have a wire in it. Based on the rusty water line under the tray, from the infamous 10mm wrench someone dropped under the tray. They removed the plastic shrouds under the windshield and a bunch of leaves were in there. I'm also thinking I will have to replace the fuse box because there's some rust and oxidation on the fuses and relays from getting wet for two years. I also think the door seals and trunk seals are worn out. I noticed a trail of water going into the floor board on the passenger side now that the carpet is out coming from the threshold under the door. I also found water on top of the gas tank in the storage compartment behind the driver's seat so I'm guessing the trunk seal is also leaking. Still unable to connect to the OBD2 port after having a dehumidifier in there for 3days.... The struggle continues but all hope is not lost!