Another shutdown for the popcharger
It can/might also be the air flow.
I have heard of guys in the Z32 crowd also stalling at high speeds with a "cone" type filter, which I never experienced, due to air flow problems around the filter. Possibly a vacuum effect?
Some guys did put a strip of electrical tape down the side of the filter to erupt the airflow, but this seems counter productive. Maybe you guys who are experiencing this problem should try and re-direct the airflow to the air filter abit?? Just a suggestion.
I have heard of guys in the Z32 crowd also stalling at high speeds with a "cone" type filter, which I never experienced, due to air flow problems around the filter. Possibly a vacuum effect?
Some guys did put a strip of electrical tape down the side of the filter to erupt the airflow, but this seems counter productive. Maybe you guys who are experiencing this problem should try and re-direct the airflow to the air filter abit?? Just a suggestion.
I had the problem of engine shutdown after my engine was replaced. The cause - the popcharger was not reinstalled properly. Infact, the filter had entirely fallen off.
The ECU is very sensitive and if the popcharger is not afixed properly, the ECU will shut the car down.
What happens is, you're driving, then the revs drop to zero, you lose power steering etc. In those occassions until I figured out what was wrong, I'd just pop it into gear to get back power.
Check your installation.
The ECU is very sensitive and if the popcharger is not afixed properly, the ECU will shut the car down.
What happens is, you're driving, then the revs drop to zero, you lose power steering etc. In those occassions until I figured out what was wrong, I'd just pop it into gear to get back power.
Check your installation.
Im gonna have to point the blame at faulty installs here. I can't see any way that the stock box with just as many leaks as the JWT (or similar) does not cause this problem.
If anything, there are less leakage possibilities with the JWT than the stock box! For example, the filter is connected at one point, and one point only, to the MAF tube.
The stock box is connected there, and then relies on a tight fit from the panel filter foam sealer (above the panel filter) to ensure proper airflow. I'd think a metal to rubber seal is more effective (JWT style) than a plastic to foam seal (stock box).
A while back, concerns of this had me thinking, so during a highway drive I put the car into neutral at about 75-85mph (downhill). I was also trying to see how high I could get the MPG gauge hehe...
Well, guess what happened? Nothing. She sat there at 900 or so RPM, just chillin, waiting for me to engage 6th and resume powered driving.
My recommendations:
1 - Make sure the install is leak free, and everything is torqued correctly and firmly seated.
2 - Invest in a grounding kit. There's no doubt that the ECU is causing this stall-out situation. Why not ensure the signal from the sensors is reaching the ECU quickly and effectively by using a grounding kit. If the grounding kit will smooth out the idle dramatically (which was noticed across the boards here), its got to be doing something good - and may help this from not occuring to anyone else.
3 - Drive stick correctly. You need to pretend the clutch pedal is red hot to increase longevity of the clutch and throwout bearing mechanisms. The less time you'r using the clutch, the better, so dont stand on the clutch while you're deciding is the traffic is stopping in front of you or not. Keep the RPM's at or above 2000 during highway driving.
The A/T guys probably aren't having this problem because A/T's downshift automatically when the vehicle is slowing down, like you should be.
Until there is a solid answer as to why exactly the car "just suddenly dies" on the highway, give my suggestions a try. I've had the filter for over 1000 miles with no problems (::knocks on wood:
.
If anything, there are less leakage possibilities with the JWT than the stock box! For example, the filter is connected at one point, and one point only, to the MAF tube.
The stock box is connected there, and then relies on a tight fit from the panel filter foam sealer (above the panel filter) to ensure proper airflow. I'd think a metal to rubber seal is more effective (JWT style) than a plastic to foam seal (stock box).
A while back, concerns of this had me thinking, so during a highway drive I put the car into neutral at about 75-85mph (downhill). I was also trying to see how high I could get the MPG gauge hehe...
Well, guess what happened? Nothing. She sat there at 900 or so RPM, just chillin, waiting for me to engage 6th and resume powered driving.
My recommendations:
1 - Make sure the install is leak free, and everything is torqued correctly and firmly seated.
2 - Invest in a grounding kit. There's no doubt that the ECU is causing this stall-out situation. Why not ensure the signal from the sensors is reaching the ECU quickly and effectively by using a grounding kit. If the grounding kit will smooth out the idle dramatically (which was noticed across the boards here), its got to be doing something good - and may help this from not occuring to anyone else.
3 - Drive stick correctly. You need to pretend the clutch pedal is red hot to increase longevity of the clutch and throwout bearing mechanisms. The less time you'r using the clutch, the better, so dont stand on the clutch while you're deciding is the traffic is stopping in front of you or not. Keep the RPM's at or above 2000 during highway driving.
The A/T guys probably aren't having this problem because A/T's downshift automatically when the vehicle is slowing down, like you should be.
Until there is a solid answer as to why exactly the car "just suddenly dies" on the highway, give my suggestions a try. I've had the filter for over 1000 miles with no problems (::knocks on wood:
.
Originally posted by Jason@Performance
ok... are those of you experiencing problems with 04's or 03's...
i think i may have figured somefin out...
ok... are those of you experiencing problems with 04's or 03's...
i think i may have figured somefin out...
Over 4,000 with my popcharger on my 2003 and not a problem . Best advice here given is to check your installation . You may have a BIG leak . I tighten my connections up all the time as a routine precaution and have never had any probs !
FrankieZZ
FrankieZZ
I've had it on for around 1200 miles now and no probs. Sometimes I even push my car from rolling around 45mph to like 100-105mph and its working great. Hope I dont get any of this stalling in the future.
AT, 04. popcharger.
stalled.
not willing to do it again.
note: did not reset ECU when i put it on. i've read some that say you need to, others say don't. if i were to do it again i'd make sure to reset the ECU.
stalled.
not willing to do it again.
note: did not reset ECU when i put it on. i've read some that say you need to, others say don't. if i were to do it again i'd make sure to reset the ECU.
Here's my expirience with the stalling, I was going around 170km/h when I've stalled on a very narrow road no fun, trust me.
After I've stalled I've observed few things, my idle was very erratic, before the install it was around 700-650rpm, after the popcharger install the idle some times dipped down to 500rpm, even when the engine was warm. Without the popcharger when I've reved my engine and then put it into nutral the engine rpm would drop very fast down to 1000rpm and then very slowly to idle speed.
Now when I've installed the popcharger, the engine rpm would drop very fast to 650rpm and then slowly to 500rpm. When it reached 500rpm it would either stall or recover itself and it would idle very erraticly.
Now I've reset the ECU according to the technosquare website, including the throtle position and idle speed. After the reset the engine would behave exactly like stock and I didn't have any problems since. I think the ECU reset is the key, it was for me, I also think that resetting battery isn't enough to fix this problem.
After I've stalled I've observed few things, my idle was very erratic, before the install it was around 700-650rpm, after the popcharger install the idle some times dipped down to 500rpm, even when the engine was warm. Without the popcharger when I've reved my engine and then put it into nutral the engine rpm would drop very fast down to 1000rpm and then very slowly to idle speed.
Now when I've installed the popcharger, the engine rpm would drop very fast to 650rpm and then slowly to 500rpm. When it reached 500rpm it would either stall or recover itself and it would idle very erraticly.
Now I've reset the ECU according to the technosquare website, including the throtle position and idle speed. After the reset the engine would behave exactly like stock and I didn't have any problems since. I think the ECU reset is the key, it was for me, I also think that resetting battery isn't enough to fix this problem.
Originally posted by roneski
Just curious. Do the people that this is happening to live in particularly hot areas?
Just curious. Do the people that this is happening to live in particularly hot areas?
Originally posted by TtOrMaMnY
well i got my JWT i bought used for 60 shipped today.. I installed it and everything went pretty smooth. I then did the techniq reset procedure and got it done the first time. Then i started the car and let it idle for 2 mins so it registers the air flow when at idle. i then shut off the car and waited 10 seconds. then i started it right back up and went up and drove it for a little bit. its roars and i have no problem with it. i even went into 5th then put it in neutral and came to a complete stop. everything is GOOD!
well i got my JWT i bought used for 60 shipped today.. I installed it and everything went pretty smooth. I then did the techniq reset procedure and got it done the first time. Then i started the car and let it idle for 2 mins so it registers the air flow when at idle. i then shut off the car and waited 10 seconds. then i started it right back up and went up and drove it for a little bit. its roars and i have no problem with it. i even went into 5th then put it in neutral and came to a complete stop. everything is GOOD!
Originally posted by hfm
I had the problem of engine shutdown after my engine was replaced. The cause - the popcharger was not reinstalled properly. Infact, the filter had entirely fallen off.
The ECU is very sensitive and if the popcharger is not afixed properly, the ECU will shut the car down.
What happens is, you're driving, then the revs drop to zero, you lose power steering etc. In those occassions until I figured out what was wrong, I'd just pop it into gear to get back power.
Check your installation.
I had the problem of engine shutdown after my engine was replaced. The cause - the popcharger was not reinstalled properly. Infact, the filter had entirely fallen off.
The ECU is very sensitive and if the popcharger is not afixed properly, the ECU will shut the car down.
What happens is, you're driving, then the revs drop to zero, you lose power steering etc. In those occassions until I figured out what was wrong, I'd just pop it into gear to get back power.
Check your installation.
Originally posted by Jason@Performance
ok... are those of you experiencing problems with 04's or 03's...
i think i may have figured somefin out...
ok... are those of you experiencing problems with 04's or 03's...
i think i may have figured somefin out...
Originally posted by nuff
Here's my expirience with the stalling, I was going around 170km/h when I've stalled on a very narrow road no fun, trust me.
After I've stalled I've observed few things, my idle was very erratic, before the install it was around 700-650rpm, after the popcharger install the idle some times dipped down to 500rpm, even when the engine was warm. Without the popcharger when I've reved my engine and then put it into nutral the engine rpm would drop very fast down to 1000rpm and then very slowly to idle speed.
Now when I've installed the popcharger, the engine rpm would drop very fast to 650rpm and then slowly to 500rpm. When it reached 500rpm it would either stall or recover itself and it would idle very erraticly.
Now I've reset the ECU according to the technosquare website, including the throtle position and idle speed. After the reset the engine would behave exactly like stock and I didn't have any problems since. I think the ECU reset is the key, it was for me, I also think that resetting battery isn't enough to fix this problem.
Here's my expirience with the stalling, I was going around 170km/h when I've stalled on a very narrow road no fun, trust me.
After I've stalled I've observed few things, my idle was very erratic, before the install it was around 700-650rpm, after the popcharger install the idle some times dipped down to 500rpm, even when the engine was warm. Without the popcharger when I've reved my engine and then put it into nutral the engine rpm would drop very fast down to 1000rpm and then very slowly to idle speed.
Now when I've installed the popcharger, the engine rpm would drop very fast to 650rpm and then slowly to 500rpm. When it reached 500rpm it would either stall or recover itself and it would idle very erraticly.
Now I've reset the ECU according to the technosquare website, including the throtle position and idle speed. After the reset the engine would behave exactly like stock and I didn't have any problems since. I think the ECU reset is the key, it was for me, I also think that resetting battery isn't enough to fix this problem.


