My 1971 240Z has had a steady diet if 20/50 mineral based. 238,000 miles later- no smoke, no oil consumption, no engine repair or overhaul. Is synthetic really worth the extra cost? I think not. Change oil and filter every 3k. We have other cars in our Z club with 300,000+ miles not using synthtics!

 

Mobil1 5w-30 after 1200 miles. Living in Michigan, you know...

 

Well, if you've never used it, you don't know what you've been missing, right?

 

"Well, if you've never used it, you don't know what you've been missing, right?"

What have I been missing? Please explain.

 

I have used Mobil-1, Castol-Syntec but currently use Royal Purple. While I consider Redline or Amsoil it's equal or better, the Royal Purple is sometimes available off the shelf at a local performance shop and readily available on the Web. Royal Purple is about a buck more a quart, when purchased over the Web, than Mobil-1 or Syntec at the local Auto store. My Redline Touring will be experiencing the Royal Purple shortly after the 1200 mi. break-in. K&N Performance Gold or Nissan OEM filters. Change it every 3000.

 

When I got my car they said to use valvoline or it would void my warranty. Anyone else told this?

 

Look up oil in your owner's manual. you just need to use SAE Rated oil in the car. They want you to use their oil. If you are not planning to use synthetic, Valvoline is one of the best mineral-based oils. I recommend using 5W-30.

Boomer

 

Am I the only one that brings the car to the dealer and lets them put in whatever they're supposed to (supposedly manufacturer's recommendations)? I thought that was the best thing to do. Why wouldn't the manufacturers recommend the best oil for the car?

 

Manufacturers will almost never recommend full synthetics. Why? Actions of the big oil companies make The Sopranos look like a Sunday school class.

 

Things that look too good to be true usually are. You may have noticed in their mission statement they mention molybdenum disulfide. I'm not a chemist, so I don't know what disulfide is, but the 350Z has a molybdenum coating on its pistons to reduce friction. Why do you need an oil treatment containing it? I'm not willing to try a product I know only from their own data and testimonials on my new Z. No offense, but I will be using Mobile 1 5w-30(Nissan recommendation) and the factory filter. My dealer does not stock a synthetic, so I buy it myself at a discount. store and they put it in when I have the oil and filter changed. Has always worked for me.

 

for Mobil-1 supersyn anyone has bought them for???? the couple of places i looked are 4.50 - 5.00 bucks a quart....

 

Its $3.95 a quart at Wally World in central Oklahoma.

 

The Reason I brought up the Petro Moly (Boomer) is that I read an article in the Wall Street or New York Times about someone not believing all the claims (lower friction, better milage, Less engine wear, etc over synthetics) that seemed too good to be true. So some extensive tests were done and the product EXCEEDED all of its own claims. It was done by a company trying to disprove them. Sounds like a great product to me. If our Z has a Moly Bednum coating on the pistons, why not supplement it in the oil? I will give it a try.

 

So, if you want to go synthetic, you have to do it yourself then? That might be time consuming in the long run. Plus, I would like to get my car serviced regularly so they could perform other checks.

 

my PLAN is to do a reg oil change at 12-1500 to get clean oil in after break in. then at 3750 I get a free oil change using regular oil from the dealer. after that Im switching to syntetics, probably do an oil change every 3000miles.

which synthetic I dont know yet.

 

i think the manual says you can use 10w30 if the outside temperature does not go below 0degree Fehrenheit...check the manual...

 

My apologies. The Wall Street Journal is not given to shams and hoaxs. If you use it, please post me and the forum about your results. I would be very interested.

Boomer--a time when my big mouth overloaded my rabbit-assed mind. And no, I can't explain the saying, its buried in the mists of time and "when one pill makes you larger and one pill makes you small".

 

SunsetZ, I just went into Petromoly's website and found:

1. Their oil conforms with API SH and earlier oil ratings, not the API Sevice SJ recommended in the owner's manual;

2. The oil is recommend for warmer climates, 32 degrees and warmer; and

3. Their oil treatment at $19.95 is METAL.

I have e-mailed them, asking if their oil treatment conforms with API Service SJ. If it doesn't, you could void your Nissan warranty if you add it, especially having it done at the dealer. Nissan does not recommend oil additives. Also, I forgot to ask if you have to use the oil treatment at every oil change. If you do, the cost of an oil and filter change increase by $20! Even if you change your own oil, you would be paying the extra bucks. Only changing oil and filter at 7500 miles could come close to regular 3000 mile changes. Too long for me and if the oil treatment doesn't conform to API Service SJ, NEVER.

Boomer--hoped to find better, now we know why the racing community uses it. It needs warmer climes.

 

I was not planning on using the oil treatment, just their 5W-30 Oil. Let me know what they say about their approvals.

 

That's what I'm saying, they recommend their oil in all weights to be used in temperatures above 32 degrees! Racers can use it but it's not SAE SJ rated. It does not conform to the owner's manual rec's for the proper oil. Nissan says use 5W-30 SJ and only use older grade rated oil, if you can't find SJ.

Boomer--I would not recommend their oil to you or anyone. Dig a little deeper into their website and you'll see why. It was a good idea, but they apparently can't hold molybdenum in suspension in freezing temps, ie. under 32 degrees. Imagine what would happen if your molyoil solidified into lumps of METAL in your engine!