View Poll Results: The Best Motor Oil
Valvoline- SynPower
15
6.00%
Castrol-Syntec
34
13.60%
Mobil-1
169
67.60%
Redline
32
12.80%
Voters: 250. You may not vote on this poll
The Best Motor Oil for Our Z!
#41
Registered User
Originally posted by ezee
"Well, if you've never used it, you don't know what you've been missing, right?"
What have I been missing? Please explain.
"Well, if you've never used it, you don't know what you've been missing, right?"
What have I been missing? Please explain.
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
best bang for the buck
Mobil 1 is the best oil for the money. There are others out there that are SLIGHTLY better, but much more expensive. You can get a 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart for $17.99. There is an exstensive thread on this at www.dsmtalk.com. There are actually scientific test results, viscosity ratings, etc. The thread can be found by searching for "best AND oil". If I think about it, I will post a link to the thread later tonight when I get home.
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
I heard that once you go synthetic, you can't switch to regular oil coz it will ruin your engine. Is that true?.
BTW, My friend had an imported Evo 287 4 cylinder. and he put regular oil in it , he ended up paying 5000$ for a new gear for his car. The regular oil ruined the gear and the clutch.
BTW, My friend had an imported Evo 287 4 cylinder. and he put regular oil in it , he ended up paying 5000$ for a new gear for his car. The regular oil ruined the gear and the clutch.
#48
Originally posted by dpanet
I heard that once you go synthetic, you can't switch to regular oil coz it will ruin your engine. Is that true?.
BTW, My friend had an imported Evo 287 4 cylinder. and he put regular oil in it , he ended up paying 5000$ for a new gear for his car. The regular oil ruined the gear and the clutch.
I heard that once you go synthetic, you can't switch to regular oil coz it will ruin your engine. Is that true?.
BTW, My friend had an imported Evo 287 4 cylinder. and he put regular oil in it , he ended up paying 5000$ for a new gear for his car. The regular oil ruined the gear and the clutch.
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
In response to the EVO comment - engine oil has nothing to do with the gears/transmission/clutch in the car. It is entirely possible that he put synthetic manual transmission fluid in, and used the wrong type/weight. That could cause tranny failure. However, I can assuredly tell you that the gears or clutch have absolutely nothing to do with the type of engine oil that you use.
As far as the Toyota manager, I dunno. I have never heard of problems with switching back to dino oil. I have heard that you should not switch to synthetic on a higher mileage engine, but that is a myth. It comes from the early days of synthetics when dino oils had very low detergent content, and synthetics could cause oil leaks/burning oil. That is no longer the case. I switched to synthetic in my car at around 100k miles with no problems, and turbo cars are much harder on oil than N/T cars.
As far as the Toyota manager, I dunno. I have never heard of problems with switching back to dino oil. I have heard that you should not switch to synthetic on a higher mileage engine, but that is a myth. It comes from the early days of synthetics when dino oils had very low detergent content, and synthetics could cause oil leaks/burning oil. That is no longer the case. I switched to synthetic in my car at around 100k miles with no problems, and turbo cars are much harder on oil than N/T cars.
#50
i used Amsoil in my last car and got a significant rise in mpg..5-6 after changing the motor and tranny..I am going back too Amsoil in the spring...went to castrol syntec at 2.5k
#51
Best oil
Just to clarify my earlier post, I drove the car another 48,000 miles w/the original turbo and I never stopped taking it to the redline. It used a quart of Mobile 1 every 1500 miles when I traded it in for a honda, the service manager at the acura dealer next door(same company) bought it the same day.
#52
first post, my .02
I'm not a 350z owner, not yet anyway, but I have a few things to say about oil. First off, synthetic is OK to run from day 1 just like the Mobil 1 site says. I currently own an Audi S4 which comes from the factory with Mobile 1 just like some of the other cars in their list. As for which brand is best. On the street Mobil 1 works great and will rarely ever see the temps that may push it to break down, especially in a N/A car. I'm running a twin turbo that likes to run close to 250 deg when pushed hard and still no probs with Mobil 1. Tons of other S4 owners are having great luck with this oil. A few folks that I know that push their cars hard on the track have switched to Amsoil Series 3000. They did some data logging and found 5 deg or more drops in temp vs what they typically run with Mobil 1 and compared to other cars being run on the track at that day. My opinion is that for street driving Mobil 1 is the way to go but for extensive track use you may want to look at something like Amsoil. Since the 350 is a N/A car, unless it runs unusually hot, I would just run Mobil 1 and forget about it.
Last edited by cabalisticfire; 11-13-2002 at 09:24 AM.
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Alhambra, CA
Posts: 5
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Re: first post, my .02
Originally posted by cabalisticfire
I'm not a 350z owner, not yet anyway, but I have a few things to say about oil. First off, synthetic is OK to run from day 1 just like the Mobil 1 site says. I currently own an Audi S4 which comes from the factory with Mobile 1 just like some of the other cars in their list. As for which brand is best. On the street Mobil 1 works great and will rarely ever see the temps that may push it to break down, especially in a N/A car. I'm running a twin turbo that likes to run close to 250 deg when pushed hard and still no probs with Mobil 1. Tons of other S4 owners are having great luck with this oil. A few folks that I know that push their cars hard on the track have switched to Amsoil Series 3000. They did some data logging and found 5 deg or more drops in temp vs what they typically run with Mobil 1 and compared to other cars being run on the track at that day. My opinion is that for street driving Mobil 1 is the way to go but for extensive track use you may want to look at something like Amsoil. Since the 350 is a N/A car, unless it runs unusually hot, I would just run Mobil 1 and forget about it.
I'm not a 350z owner, not yet anyway, but I have a few things to say about oil. First off, synthetic is OK to run from day 1 just like the Mobil 1 site says. I currently own an Audi S4 which comes from the factory with Mobile 1 just like some of the other cars in their list. As for which brand is best. On the street Mobil 1 works great and will rarely ever see the temps that may push it to break down, especially in a N/A car. I'm running a twin turbo that likes to run close to 250 deg when pushed hard and still no probs with Mobil 1. Tons of other S4 owners are having great luck with this oil. A few folks that I know that push their cars hard on the track have switched to Amsoil Series 3000. They did some data logging and found 5 deg or more drops in temp vs what they typically run with Mobil 1 and compared to other cars being run on the track at that day. My opinion is that for street driving Mobil 1 is the way to go but for extensive track use you may want to look at something like Amsoil. Since the 350 is a N/A car, unless it runs unusually hot, I would just run Mobil 1 and forget about it.
properly breaking in the car. I've heard some manufacturer
(Honda, in this case) puts additive in the oil to help the
car break-in initially.
#54
"I would only change from manufacturer's oil to syn after
properly breaking in the car. I've heard some manufacturer
(Honda, in this case) puts additive in the oil to help the
car break-in initially."
I agree. Sometimes there is special break-in additives in the oil. Once the break-in period is over you shoud be all set to switch. My S4 came with break-in Mobil 1.
properly breaking in the car. I've heard some manufacturer
(Honda, in this case) puts additive in the oil to help the
car break-in initially."
I agree. Sometimes there is special break-in additives in the oil. Once the break-in period is over you shoud be all set to switch. My S4 came with break-in Mobil 1.
#55
Re: here's mobil's reply...
Originally posted by jacen2y
to the myth about breaking in new cars with conventional oil...
http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp
by the way...for those who have switched to mobil1 syn...what viscosity...5w-10, like the manual says or other??? and do you still play to change oil every 3000 cause it can get expensive
to the myth about breaking in new cars with conventional oil...
http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp
by the way...for those who have switched to mobil1 syn...what viscosity...5w-10, like the manual says or other??? and do you still play to change oil every 3000 cause it can get expensive
Remember the first number is the viscosity when starting cold engine...while the second number is normal operating temperature viscosity...so the 5W and 10W....really only makes a difference at startup; thus extremely cold environments should go for 5W
#57
In general Mobil 1 will be good for 5-10K miles depending on the car and how it's driven. What is the Nissan recommended service interval for the Z? I'd just stick with that unless it's a really low number (3k or less). Changing synthetic oil in very close intervals is a total waste of money and resources. Oil just doesn't get dirty as fast any more since our fuel systems are so advanced now. Used to be that the inefficient A/F rations that carburated motors would run would cause a lot of unburned fuel to dirty up your oil in only a few thousand miles. These days that just doesn't happen. Track use or similar high stress situations may warrant more frequent oil changes.
#59
Originally posted by venom42
I use Mobil1 every 3000 miles because I am a fanatic, and my car is a turbo.
I use Mobil1 every 3000 miles because I am a fanatic, and my car is a turbo.
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Like I said, I am just a fanatic. I run 16 psi (occasionally creep up to about 18 psi only for a sec. or two), but my car doesn't really use any oil. I don't race the car (yet), but I do drive it pretty hard. There is really no NEED to change it that often, I am just weird about it.