NNA offers $$ N E 1 in TX BBB buyback process
I filed a BBB Autoline hearing back in August of 04 and just got notice from the BBB that NNA has offered to buy the car back.
History:
43 repairs, attemps, and failures to repair in 23 months. Grease streaks, tranny, tires, axles, windows, and finally the car went "fail safe" 2 times in one week.
Anyway, has anyone in Texas been through the BBB process to its conclusion with the arbitration hearing. NNA is offerig to settle before the hearing.
The BBB program states strictly a reduction for miles driven / 100,000 X the purchase price (less tax, title, registration fees, and finance charges).
NNA is offering to buy back the car based on the car going "fail safe" 2 times in one week in August 2004. This was the final straw that made me file the BBB case but have had numerous and repetitive problems since about 9,000 miles.
What was the arbitrators calculation in your case?
Any feed back would be helpful.
History:
43 repairs, attemps, and failures to repair in 23 months. Grease streaks, tranny, tires, axles, windows, and finally the car went "fail safe" 2 times in one week.
Anyway, has anyone in Texas been through the BBB process to its conclusion with the arbitration hearing. NNA is offerig to settle before the hearing.
The BBB program states strictly a reduction for miles driven / 100,000 X the purchase price (less tax, title, registration fees, and finance charges).
NNA is offering to buy back the car based on the car going "fail safe" 2 times in one week in August 2004. This was the final straw that made me file the BBB case but have had numerous and repetitive problems since about 9,000 miles.
What was the arbitrators calculation in your case?
Any feed back would be helpful.
I dont know the only BBB experience i've had was when I used it against Best Buy and which they suck. I did get my money back though thanks to the BBB.
I wish I couuld help ya. My only advice is to stick with it, and you shoudl get your money back.
I wish I couuld help ya. My only advice is to stick with it, and you shoudl get your money back.
Did NNA give you an option of replacing your Z with another Z with the same trim? If not, I assume that by buying back the vehicle will be cheaper for them since they will be buying back the vehicle at it's deappreciated value instead of replacing it with a new Z.
The option was up to Nissan to buyback, replace, or arbitrate.
They chose to buy it back. If they replace it, I believe the calculation is similar in that I make up the depreciated value of miles I had driven the vehicle, pay for tax, title, and license all over again on the new vehicle.
They chose to buy it back. If they replace it, I believe the calculation is similar in that I make up the depreciated value of miles I had driven the vehicle, pay for tax, title, and license all over again on the new vehicle.
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No lawyer was needed to start the process at all. www.bbb.org and go to the autoline section for complete details on the program. The formula is miles driven in the car / 100,000 * purchase price.
35,000 miles /100,000 = .35%
Purchase price say $30,000 (no tax, title, finance charges inlcuded) (line 1 of the contract)
30,000 * .35 = 10,500
30,000 - 10,500 = $19,500 value for the car.
I checked KBB and a good value for a Enthusiast with my mileage (not the same as listed) was about $18,900 in good condition.
Hope that helps.
If you go to arbitration, you can bring an attorney if you want.
35,000 miles /100,000 = .35%
Purchase price say $30,000 (no tax, title, finance charges inlcuded) (line 1 of the contract)
30,000 * .35 = 10,500
30,000 - 10,500 = $19,500 value for the car.
I checked KBB and a good value for a Enthusiast with my mileage (not the same as listed) was about $18,900 in good condition.
Hope that helps.
If you go to arbitration, you can bring an attorney if you want.
I don't like that formula. It basically says that a vehicle with 100,000 miles is worth nothing and a weekend driver with 5,000 miles retains 95% of it's value.
If they use mileage, they should at least use some kinda of function that more closely mimics depreciation (like log or ln or e or something).
Tax should be included - those bastards.
Good luck!
If they use mileage, they should at least use some kinda of function that more closely mimics depreciation (like log or ln or e or something).
Tax should be included - those bastards.
Good luck!
I tend to agree but the cut off to file a BBB claim is 36,000 miles or 3 years. If I got a 100,000 miles from this car with 1/2 the problems I'd be tickled.
I guess their thought is a basic quality and driveability of a car is 100 k miles
I guess their thought is a basic quality and driveability of a car is 100 k miles
That's the $64 question. My wife asked that and I am loving the z especially on my 30 mile commute. I would love to get another Z but the fear is dampering my spirits. She would be cool about it but what if the next one is a lemon, also?
Nothing gets me to excited. I have eyed on the toll way the Acura TL but I don't know. May have to do a test drive this weekend. I see they make it with a manual which could be fun.
Thought about a G 35 coupe, also. 2005 w/ the bigger hp would be nice. But the fear of another Nissan.... I know all cars have problems but I am once bitten by NNA already.
Any thoughts
Nothing gets me to excited. I have eyed on the toll way the Acura TL but I don't know. May have to do a test drive this weekend. I see they make it with a manual which could be fun.
Thought about a G 35 coupe, also. 2005 w/ the bigger hp would be nice. But the fear of another Nissan.... I know all cars have problems but I am once bitten by NNA already.
Any thoughts
After going through what you went through, I'd never buy another Z. With all the headaches involved, Nissan should have just swapped your Z with a new or very low mileage G35 or another Z because when it's said and done, you still paid roughly $460/month to own that car ($10,500/23month) $19,500 paid for the used car, but it didn't cover the time you wasted getting it fixed, which could easily amount to $10k in income.
Now I know how screwed we get if we go with the BBB, and if I'm ever forced go that route, I'd probably take the car on a track and beat the hell out of it until it's worth far less than the money they're giving me.
Now I know how screwed we get if we go with the BBB, and if I'm ever forced go that route, I'd probably take the car on a track and beat the hell out of it until it's worth far less than the money they're giving me.
I sorta understand what you are going through. My old man has a Brickyard Z with the chrome wheels. He has had more problems with that car; amp changed, radio changed, coutless alignments, tires swapped, grease marks, pull to the right, fuel door, rear wheel sensor bad, rear end clunk, 3 different dealerships.....Finally after all the fixings the car is better than ever. After the Nissan USA Tech set the right specs the car has been perfect.
He was to the point where he wanted to get another car but the love of the car and the color, kept us going back to the dealer. If they made an 04 or 05 with the BY color, then he might have traded in cars but since there isnt he decided to keep his car.
Like I said finally the car is all fixed, and its worth keeping it (espcially since you been paying on the mother). Maybe you can hold off for alittle while and see if your car doesnt improve. The one good thing is the car never went in for motor problems, and hopefully we will not be bringing it in for service for a long time!
Go out and look at your car, do you really want to get rid of it?
He was to the point where he wanted to get another car but the love of the car and the color, kept us going back to the dealer. If they made an 04 or 05 with the BY color, then he might have traded in cars but since there isnt he decided to keep his car.
Like I said finally the car is all fixed, and its worth keeping it (espcially since you been paying on the mother). Maybe you can hold off for alittle while and see if your car doesnt improve. The one good thing is the car never went in for motor problems, and hopefully we will not be bringing it in for service for a long time!
Go out and look at your car, do you really want to get rid of it?
You are cruel playing on my lust, I mean symapthy.
I have had a leaking gasket (no biggy) but I am consuming 3/4-1 qt of oil between changes, also. Just not on my hit list above
I have had a leaking gasket (no biggy) but I am consuming 3/4-1 qt of oil between changes, also. Just not on my hit list above
Originally posted by dnguyent
After going through what you went through, I'd never buy another Z. With all the headaches involved, Nissan should have just swapped your Z with a new or very low mileage G35 or another Z because when it's said and done, you still paid roughly $460/month to own that car ($10,500/23month) $19,500 paid for the used car, but it didn't cover the time you wasted getting it fixed, which could easily amount to $10k in income.
Now I know how screwed we get if we go with the BBB, and if I'm ever forced go that route, I'd probably take the car on a track and beat the hell out of it until it's worth far less than the money they're giving me.
After going through what you went through, I'd never buy another Z. With all the headaches involved, Nissan should have just swapped your Z with a new or very low mileage G35 or another Z because when it's said and done, you still paid roughly $460/month to own that car ($10,500/23month) $19,500 paid for the used car, but it didn't cover the time you wasted getting it fixed, which could easily amount to $10k in income.
Now I know how screwed we get if we go with the BBB, and if I'm ever forced go that route, I'd probably take the car on a track and beat the hell out of it until it's worth far less than the money they're giving me.
Read my mind
Originally posted by FairladyZ
losing the 1qt of oil is normal for a high performance car. The oil gets trapped in the heads and such.
losing the 1qt of oil is normal for a high performance car. The oil gets trapped in the heads and such.
Jim,
Really sorry to hear about this. As you know, my ECU fried twice as well. Dump that POS and move on to another Z, or G35, or something. If you're caught in high-speed traffic and that POS goes into safe mode, you could be rear-ended by some inattentive ****tard in their SUV. I almost got taken out on Preston when my car died the second time.
Really sorry to hear about this. As you know, my ECU fried twice as well. Dump that POS and move on to another Z, or G35, or something. If you're caught in high-speed traffic and that POS goes into safe mode, you could be rear-ended by some inattentive ****tard in their SUV. I almost got taken out on Preston when my car died the second time.
Originally posted by droideka
Bullsh*t. Michael-Dallas' car has never burned a SINGLE DROP of oil and he has wailed on it dozens of times at the track. When a VQ35 burns oil excessively, it's blow-by due to ****ed up piston rings. I had the dealer remove and inspect my collector and plenum and there wasn't any oil pooling inside.
Bullsh*t. Michael-Dallas' car has never burned a SINGLE DROP of oil and he has wailed on it dozens of times at the track. When a VQ35 burns oil excessively, it's blow-by due to ****ed up piston rings. I had the dealer remove and inspect my collector and plenum and there wasn't any oil pooling inside.
BTW, didn't Farren find a bad coolant temp sensor on your Z that caused the ECU to go limp, Brad? :-)
Michael.


