I have an 05 350z motor with bout 55,000 miles... cylinder rings went out , with cylinder walls still in good condition has anyone used any type of stock forged pistons without boring out if so what brand and type have you guys used for this.... i do plan to ( i dont know if im saying this right ....thanks for the clarification) hone out the cylinders. but let me know what youve used?

thanks any other suggestions is welcome

by the way i had also posted bout building a motor earlier but this is my plan now just wanna get my car up and boosting again

 

Do you mean hone out the cylinder walls?

 

Doesn't sound like you have a built block at all and don't seem F/I either. List the rest of your mods or take a set at the kiddie table (NA section) .

.20 overbore is the norm, unlikely that just a hone would be sufficient. Build the bottom end or just but another stock shortblock, the money may end up being similar.

 

If the rings a truly worn out,you can bet the cylinders are worn too.If you don't have any experience Whoming,I suggest you contact one of the engine guys in this forum

 

i bought a set of JE pistons stock bore 95.5mm, i only had to hone the cylinder wall... no bore. If you take it to a machine shop and tell them u will be using stock bore forged pistons they will look at your current block and tell u if a simple hone will be enough or if you need to bore .20 over to save the block.

 

sorry i didnt put much info what im doing is a rebuild on this block for my turbonetics kit....i have an 03 350z with stock block on right now but it also blew a cylinder ring so instead of pulling my motor which has 83000 miles i rather use a block that my friend gave me with 55000 miles... reason i ask bout stock forged pistons was because right now i dont have the money to spend to get a complete built block and am looking to doing everything right but at low cost.....

 

In that case the advice you have been given is 100% what you need. Only a machine shop can tell you if the cylinders can be cleaned up enough by just honing them, or if a .20 overbore is necessary.
My advice is to get info on the total costs for both options since they will both require complete teardown of the bottom end and the only real costdifference may be rods and pistons. In all reality, since the motor is F/I, building is the better and safer long term option even at TN power levels IMO.

 

in all honesty man, i know your trying to do this at a low cost, but. Dont do it at all. if your going to upgrade something, upgrade the rod's, not the pistons. Wont make sense boosting that motor, and you have aftermarket pistons, with the stock weak rods, your not going to boost higher than a stock motor. When building a motor, its not best to do it half ***. Im in the process of finishing my build, im on a student/unemployed budget, and its taken me about two months to finish(assembling it tomorrow). Take your time, and save up as much as you can do to it all at once. Otherwise your going to end up spending more money than if u did it right in 1st place.

 

nice... im also doing a low budget build... built motor is finished, i will be installing it tomorrow!! hope to get it tuned soon!!!

 

There is no way without measurment that you can tell if the cylinder is in condition for a rebuild. Is the bore round? Does it taper from top to bottom? Chances are that the block is not in the condition for a rebuild. So many precise measurments need to come together to have a succesful motor it's really worth the time and money taking it to a machine shop and getting the block prepped unless you are willing to invite failure into the equation. While the motor is apart you should have bearings, studs and rods done as well. There is no cheap and succesful way to do this. This hobby is not for those who have a skinny wallet.

 

Machining the block may not be as expensive as you think if you can find a good local machine shop. It cost a friend of mine only $350 to machine the block to fit the larger .020 overbored pistons. Check into it. Do it right.

 

Do it right...

 

your probably right as far as going the extra mile even if i pay more.... i knew going F/I was gonna play with my wallet but right now buisseness is a little slow but im sure i can handle waiting a bit longer.... i guess from this what kind of pistons and rods do you recommend if im going is it .20 or .02 overbore i got somewhat confused with a few comments... so if you guys can recommend me pistons and rods and or any other parts you recommend me replacing or is that enough to run boost safe?

 

here are some pics of my ride i havent updated it in a while under my profile

 

Just to give you an example, my parts include:
Wiseco 96mm 8.8:1 Compression pistons $600
Eagle H beam rods $400
ACL Main and Rod bearings $130
HR head gasket $53
HR head bolts $46
stock DE main bolts $54
Rev up oil pump $178
- Total Parts alone: $1,461

Machine work:
bore/hone $225
balance $150
resurface block $100
file fit rings $60
another $100 for random things
- Total machine work $635

Final Total for build: $2,096

All the labor and assembly is done by me.
Id say this setup is good for about high 500's whp, some say the stock sleeve cant take above 550 more or less, who knows. I havent done enough research to find someone with cracked sleeve, realistically i'll probably be around mid 400's for my fwd car on the street. hope the info helps

 

thanks thats exaclty what i was looking for

hopefully i can get started soon!!!!