JTran tunning experiance
05-01-2010, 09:21 PM
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P1283 code & JTran tunning experiance
After installing my breathing mods, mrev2, spacer, hfc, and y-pipe my car started to act a little funny. Sometimes when I would start the engine the my rpms would dip real low and even die sometimes. For the last few months I just lived with it by giving the car some gas when ever I started the engine.
But last Thursday I had the CEL light come on while I was idling at a stop light. I hoped it was a fluke and just cleared it using the reset method on this forum. 20 miles later it came back and I cleared it again but after 20 miles, like clock work it came back but this time I had it read. I feared it was going to be one of the typical codes for the cats but it ended up being p1983. I looked it up and it is a warning the car is running lean. Because of my mods this didn't seem that surprising.
I had to be in Houston for the weekend so I cleared the code and figured I would give it the ol' Italian tune up on the way to Houston. I actually went the full trip w/o getting the CEL but I wasn't doing my typical driving. I normally stop and go 20 miles a day never going faster than 50.
Before I left for Houston I sent an email to JTran asking if he had time to look at my car. He got back with me and said he could work me in on Saturday.
When they put my car up on the dyno and did the baseline pull. When they first tried to start the car it died, so they had to crank it again and gas is. The a/f was 13.4 so more than likely the sensor was really reading a lean condition... I thought maybe it was the sensor was just failing.
They loaded a new map, raised my rev limit and made a second pull. Right off the back you could see a huge difference in the torque curve. He made some more changes and did a final pull and got it up to 240hp and my A/F down to a more healthy 12.5. The baseline was 220 but it wasn't pulled to the same RPM so I can't really claim a 20hp increase. However there is a solid 10hp/10tq gain throughout the entire curve. I have the dyno print outs I can scan up and post when I get back to Dallas. More importantly I am not dying on start up and with my A/F ratio fixed I shouldn't see that check engine light anymore. All and all the car drives more put together...
I would recommend getting a tune to anyone who has a few bolt ons. Having it done on the dyno means you can see the results with your own eyes and know your money is really going for something that's really working
But last Thursday I had the CEL light come on while I was idling at a stop light. I hoped it was a fluke and just cleared it using the reset method on this forum. 20 miles later it came back and I cleared it again but after 20 miles, like clock work it came back but this time I had it read. I feared it was going to be one of the typical codes for the cats but it ended up being p1983. I looked it up and it is a warning the car is running lean. Because of my mods this didn't seem that surprising.
I had to be in Houston for the weekend so I cleared the code and figured I would give it the ol' Italian tune up on the way to Houston. I actually went the full trip w/o getting the CEL but I wasn't doing my typical driving. I normally stop and go 20 miles a day never going faster than 50.
Before I left for Houston I sent an email to JTran asking if he had time to look at my car. He got back with me and said he could work me in on Saturday.
When they put my car up on the dyno and did the baseline pull. When they first tried to start the car it died, so they had to crank it again and gas is. The a/f was 13.4 so more than likely the sensor was really reading a lean condition... I thought maybe it was the sensor was just failing.
They loaded a new map, raised my rev limit and made a second pull. Right off the back you could see a huge difference in the torque curve. He made some more changes and did a final pull and got it up to 240hp and my A/F down to a more healthy 12.5. The baseline was 220 but it wasn't pulled to the same RPM so I can't really claim a 20hp increase. However there is a solid 10hp/10tq gain throughout the entire curve. I have the dyno print outs I can scan up and post when I get back to Dallas. More importantly I am not dying on start up and with my A/F ratio fixed I shouldn't see that check engine light anymore. All and all the car drives more put together...
I would recommend getting a tune to anyone who has a few bolt ons. Having it done on the dyno means you can see the results with your own eyes and know your money is really going for something that's really working
Last edited by hypeiv; 05-01-2010 at 09:24 PM.
05-01-2010, 11:23 PM
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After installing my breathing mods, mrev2, spacer, hfc, and y-pipe my car started to act a little funny. Sometimes when I would start the engine the my rpms would dip real low and even die sometimes. For the last few months I just lived with it by giving the car some gas when ever I started the engine.
But last Thursday I had the CEL light come on while I was idling at a stop light. I hoped it was a fluke and just cleared it using the reset method on this forum. 20 miles later it came back and I cleared it again but after 20 miles, like clock work it came back but this time I had it read. I feared it was going to be one of the typical codes for the cats but it ended up being p1983. I looked it up and it is a warning the car is running lean. Because of my mods this didn't seem that surprising.
I had to be in Houston for the weekend so I cleared the code and figured I would give it the ol' Italian tune up on the way to Houston. I actually went the full trip w/o getting the CEL but I wasn't doing my typical driving. I normally stop and go 20 miles a day never going faster than 50.
Before I left for Houston I sent an email to JTran asking if he had time to look at my car. He got back with me and said he could work me in on Saturday.
When they put my car up on the dyno and did the baseline pull. When they first tried to start the car it died, so they had to crank it again and gas is. The a/f was 13.4 so more than likely the sensor was really reading a lean condition... I thought maybe it was the sensor was just failing.
They loaded a new map, raised my rev limit and made a second pull. Right off the back you could see a huge difference in the torque curve. He made some more changes and did a final pull and got it up to 240hp and my A/F down to a more healthy 12.5. The baseline was 220 but it wasn't pulled to the same RPM so I can't really claim a 20hp increase. However there is a solid 10hp/10tq gain throughout the entire curve. I have the dyno print outs I can scan up and post when I get back to Dallas. More importantly I am not dying on start up and with my A/F ratio fixed I shouldn't see that check engine light anymore. All and all the car drives more put together...
I would recommend getting a tune to anyone who has a few bolt ons. Having it done on the dyno means you can see the results with your own eyes and know your money is really going for something that's really working
But last Thursday I had the CEL light come on while I was idling at a stop light. I hoped it was a fluke and just cleared it using the reset method on this forum. 20 miles later it came back and I cleared it again but after 20 miles, like clock work it came back but this time I had it read. I feared it was going to be one of the typical codes for the cats but it ended up being p1983. I looked it up and it is a warning the car is running lean. Because of my mods this didn't seem that surprising.
I had to be in Houston for the weekend so I cleared the code and figured I would give it the ol' Italian tune up on the way to Houston. I actually went the full trip w/o getting the CEL but I wasn't doing my typical driving. I normally stop and go 20 miles a day never going faster than 50.
Before I left for Houston I sent an email to JTran asking if he had time to look at my car. He got back with me and said he could work me in on Saturday.
When they put my car up on the dyno and did the baseline pull. When they first tried to start the car it died, so they had to crank it again and gas is. The a/f was 13.4 so more than likely the sensor was really reading a lean condition... I thought maybe it was the sensor was just failing.
They loaded a new map, raised my rev limit and made a second pull. Right off the back you could see a huge difference in the torque curve. He made some more changes and did a final pull and got it up to 240hp and my A/F down to a more healthy 12.5. The baseline was 220 but it wasn't pulled to the same RPM so I can't really claim a 20hp increase. However there is a solid 10hp/10tq gain throughout the entire curve. I have the dyno print outs I can scan up and post when I get back to Dallas. More importantly I am not dying on start up and with my A/F ratio fixed I shouldn't see that check engine light anymore. All and all the car drives more put together...
I would recommend getting a tune to anyone who has a few bolt ons. Having it done on the dyno means you can see the results with your own eyes and know your money is really going for something that's really working
on JTranI tuned with him also and now I'm getting a built block through him. Hope all goes well.
05-03-2010, 03:40 AM
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Here is a scan of the dyno... this is before and after tune... car stayed on the dyno the entire time and the runs were 15 minutes apart.
I haven't had much time to play with the car since the tune but no check engine lights and all my start ups have been strong. I tried launching the car last night but my rear left tire is so bald I couldn't hook up and I pulled hard and had to bail. I will buy new tires later this week (b/c I will need them to pass inspection). I'll try to get the spreadsheet up soon.
edit: spreadsheet added
I haven't had much time to play with the car since the tune but no check engine lights and all my start ups have been strong. I tried launching the car last night but my rear left tire is so bald I couldn't hook up and I pulled hard and had to bail. I will buy new tires later this week (b/c I will need them to pass inspection). I'll try to get the spreadsheet up soon.
edit: spreadsheet added
Last edited by hypeiv; 05-03-2010 at 04:01 AM.
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05-03-2010, 09:16 AM
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05-14-2010, 03:56 PM
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Hey, Rick, it's good to see you around the forums still. 
You should have gotten a y-pipe back exhaust (or a catback if you don't care about your current aftermarket y-pipe) first before getting a tune; you're bottlenecked at the mid-pipe as-is.
What did they use to tune your car (which reflash, piggyback, or EMS)?
What kind of dyno and what gear?
How long did the entire process take (sounds like a short visit)?
How much OTD?
Also, why do you have that weird peak then a dip just before 3K? Could the tuner not have smoothed that out?
You should have gotten a y-pipe back exhaust (or a catback if you don't care about your current aftermarket y-pipe) first before getting a tune; you're bottlenecked at the mid-pipe as-is.What did they use to tune your car (which reflash, piggyback, or EMS)?
What kind of dyno and what gear?
How long did the entire process take (sounds like a short visit)?
How much OTD?
Also, why do you have that weird peak then a dip just before 3K? Could the tuner not have smoothed that out?
05-16-2010, 08:48 AM
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Hey, Rick, it's good to see you around the forums still. You should have gotten a y-pipe back exhaust (or a catback if you don't care about your current aftermarket y-pipe) first before getting a tune; you're bottlenecked at the mid-pipe as-is.
What did they use to tune your car (which reflash, piggyback, or EMS)?
What kind of dyno and what gear?
How long did the entire process take (sounds like a short visit)?
How much OTD?
Also, why do you have that weird peak then a dip just before 3K? Could the tuner not have smoothed that out?
You should have gotten a y-pipe back exhaust (or a catback if you don't care about your current aftermarket y-pipe) first before getting a tune; you're bottlenecked at the mid-pipe as-is.What did they use to tune your car (which reflash, piggyback, or EMS)?
What kind of dyno and what gear?
How long did the entire process take (sounds like a short visit)?
How much OTD?
Also, why do you have that weird peak then a dip just before 3K? Could the tuner not have smoothed that out?
Mustang Dyno in 3rd
They were busy doing a dyno day so I hung out for for a few hours but they let me eat for free since I had to wait. They were able to strap my car to the dyno really fast and he had a map with a similar set up so he was able to gain a bunch of power on the first try but tweaked the settings and did it again. If he has a baseline flash to work with it should go faster, from scratch I think it can be done in under 2 hours. JTran is a nice guy and let me watch exactly what he was doing so it was also pretty fun.
I'll PM you my OTD price
05-17-2010, 06:34 AM
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Im another extremely satisfied client of jtran and give Amber, Johnny, & his entire crew the best of recommendations possible, no beat around the bushes and everything done right! I make a 6 hr. drive or 7 hr. trailered just to take my car to them!!! Yeah its worth it! They are currently working on a custom turbo kit and fuel system and pretty much the works to get some high numbers, and i cant wait to see the results....
I'm pretty sure they've done nitrous tunes but ill let Amber or Johnny tune in to tell you, or try calling their shop and ask for Amber or Mike they should be able to help you.
They are currently working on a custom turbo kit and fuel system and pretty much the works to get some high numbers, and i cant wait to see the results.... I'm pretty sure they've done nitrous tunes but ill let Amber or Johnny tune in to tell you, or try calling their shop and ask for Amber or Mike they should be able to help you.
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