Orangeboy - if you get that 2ohm I'll trade you for a 4ohm I have sitting around not in use. I got it for a backup when they stopped making the 10.5s but I'd really wish I would have grabbed a 2ohm instead .

 

Cheers for the offer dude

Is it brand new & unused?

Think the price/shipping might put you off swopping though.

Store want £150 (that's a reduced to clear price) for the sub plus £25 to send to me. £175 is about $340.

I bet it would cost about $150 to send it out to you. Makes it about $490, looking at how cheap stuff is over there I don't think you'll be interested, i may be wrong though.

I might be interested in your 4ohm one though! How much you after for it?

Again shipping a sub is a costly business to the UK. My two pairs of boston pro 6.5's cost me $160 to ship to the UK.

Plus when importing stuff we get charged about 6% import duty on the value of the item PLUS the shipping cost, then on top of that 17.5% tax, plus a handling fee from the couriers this end!

Not cheap living here, plus the weather is cra*.

 

FYI. for the JL 1000/1, the subs will get a combined 1000 watts anyway as long as they are between 1.5 to 4 ohms. So you should be able to use one 4 ohm and one 2 ohm.

 

Cheers for the info 2 low z

I know the JL can push out 1000 watts RMS into various ohm's, I wasn't really concerned about the power output of the amp into the speakers as such. 1000watts will blow the living daylights out of two 10.5lf's as they can't cope with 500 odd watts each of umph.

I was really getting at the fact that the speakers are different ohm's & wanted to clarify that one would not be working twice as hard as the other.

I get well confused with all this ohm's, parralel, series stuff.

The manual says the two sets of speaker terminals on the amp are connected in parralel inside the amp. So if i wire up each speaker connection to the amp with it's own wire (4 wires total) does this mean the speakers are running in parralel or will one draw twice as much current as the other, or do i use just two wires from the amp, one to a terminal on one sub, one to the other sub, then connect the two unconnected sub terminals with a third piece of wire?

If you see what I mean

I'm well confused!

 

I am currently using a set of Focal 165 K2P's (Front stage) and 165 A's (Rear) powered by Zapco Reference amps. I have heard many desciptions of Focals before, but I have never heard anyone say anything remotely close to "bland" as far as mids are concerned. That is one thing that they are praised for. There is a slight boost in the mid bass area as you said, but I personally prefer a slightly stronger mid bass.

As far as Z6's are concerned. They are some extremely impressive components. Extremely flexible in a variety of different install configurations. They sound fantastic. I actually got a chance to sit in on a class given by the Boston rep to my friend (owner of a shop that sells their line) and was really impressed with the technology that was put into them.

What it all boiled down to is that the Z6's were not what I preferred. Simply put, I don't think people should buy any component sets or any driver for that matter, without having first heard them themselves. Each individual will prefer something different. Everyone hears things a little different.

For those trying to get a better deal by buying things online, at least go buy your local audio dealer and listen to the ones you are about to order prior to doing so.

I also agree with you totally on the fronts being the major concern. However, I would not go as far as saying that cheap coaxials in the rear will be fine. Just as you said earlier about how some speakers sound overly boosted and bland in different areas, the same will apply to the rear. Even if they are attenuated or the highs are rolled off to pull the stage forward, at different intervals throughout a song, frequencies which would naturally peak or spike will inherently pull the stage to the rear at the exact moment that the spike is occurring. This will happen even if they are attenuated. It just won't be as noticeble. I would recommend either front stage alone or if you do decide to use rear fill, at least use something that is similar (something in the same product line) to your fronts.

Whatever you do, power the hell out of them. LOL! Nothing like an extreme amount of unclipped voltage running some nice components.

 

Just wanted to get everyones opinion on the setup that I just bought, I've have been doing a lot of research on diamond audio and they seem to be my best bet from the reviews, I just bought the DA S600s for up front and bought thr DA M391i 6x9's for the rear deck, I bought the Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 to power the DA S600s I heard the speakers need lots of power so im gonna power the DA S600s at 150x2 @4ohms and I was think of running the rear 6x9's off the headunit for now. Would it be a bad choice to run the 6x9's off the head unit would they be getting enough power? I plan on getting a pair 6.5 midbass driver for the rear side panels and a four channel amp to run the 6.5 midbass drivers and the 6x9's in a couple of months. If you guys have any better suggestions on how I should set it up let me know. thanks

What a good midbass speaker I was thinking of getting a pair of kickers are they any good?

 

orangeboy,

Sorry for delay, it is my understanding that if you run the speakers in parallel (each directly to each terminal since the amp is already wire in parallel) that each speaker will be running around 3 ohms so they will each "work" the same amount receiving 500 watts.

However in a case where say you had a 50x2 channel amp without the R.I.PS. design and hook each speaker independently to each channel then one speaker would be at 2 ohm receiving about 100 watts and the other at 4 ohm receiving 50 watts. In this case the JL R.I.PS. is helps you by giving you flexability.

Hope this helps, if anyone disagrees please chime in. It's been a while for me.