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Recommend Amps for IDMAX 10 V.3 D4 plz

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Old 12-26-2004, 02:32 PM
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AParshall04
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Default Recommend Amps for IDMAX 10 V.3 D4 plz

Just ordered an IDMAX 10 V.3 D4. I need to figure out which amp im going to use to power it.

Dual Voice Coils and 1000watts RMS. I doubt i'll need the 1000 watts rms but who knows. I know JLs amps will support this type of subwoofer but i always feel that JL is always overpriced and i know that certain amps will not accomodate the Dual 4 Ohm Impedance. Help from the experts is much appreciated!

Thanks,
Alex
Old 12-26-2004, 03:36 PM
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OgreDave
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Wow, you got a Dual 4? You shoulda got a Dual 2 just so you can get max power out of most class D amps.

Which gets to amps I'm going to recommend .. subs, class D is usually fine .. if you are super **** you can go class A/B, but most people will say you cannot tell b/t A/B vs D on sub-bass. (I'm w/them)

Amps I've personally used & recommend:
JBL BP1200.1 - 1200+ @ 1 & 2 ohm
DEI 1100D - 800 @ 2, 1100 @ 1ohm
Memphis MC16-1000 - 750 @ 2, 1100 @ 1ohm
Lanzar Vibe 1200D - 800?(forgot) @2, 1200 @ 1ohm

These are all their 'specs' but essentially they were benched to do around their numbers. IE JBL benched 1276 @ 2ohms (max power according to manual). DEI benched 1070ish @ 1ohm. Lanzar Vibe benched around 1180 @ 1, forgot on the Memphis, but it's very close to the DEI.

Memphis is the smallest & run's DAMN cool. DEI is supposed to be the most efficient, JBL is most powerful, Lanzar cheapest (~129 + shipping refurb on eBay). JBL 1200.1Z (refurb) on SD is cheap & comes w/warranty.

I guess 750w or so @ 2ohm is plenty for the sub .. it's probably too much .. but I just hate 'wasting' an amp's potential like that BUY ANOTHER 10 D4! ahahha

BTW, I have what you have (10 D4) and *AM* buying another 10 D4 to run it at 1ohm.
Old 12-26-2004, 07:00 PM
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JimRHIT
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Another vote for the JBL 1200.1 I have one that you can try out on your sub if you want.

Jim
Old 12-26-2004, 08:47 PM
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Thanks Jim, im not going to be back in town for another couple weeks and im one of the most impatient guys when it comes to installing stuff on my car, i always want to start working on it RIGHT NOW and hate waiting for things to get shipped. I read up on the JBL 1200 and read a lot of great things about it. Its either that or getting one of those cheap Lanzer 1200s, from talking to someone in PMs i found out they are actually pretty good for the price.
Old 12-26-2004, 09:50 PM
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the7ferret
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Originally posted by OgreDave
Wow, you got a Dual 4? You shoulda got a Dual 2 just so you can get max power out of most class D amps.
He will be fine.

You can get it down to 1ohm bridged / 2ohms stereo.
Any less than that and your gonna need a high current amp and thats gonna require some heavy wire. and $$$$$
Old 12-26-2004, 10:28 PM
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AParshall04
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Just ordered a 0 guage amp kit

So far were lookin at
1 IDmax V.3 10 D4
Alpine HD-5460
either the JBL 1200.1 or the Lanzar Vibe 1200D
Building my box out of 3/4" thick MDF board tomorrow to go under the strut bar, but the box will start right at the front of where most under strut bar boxs go and instead of stopping to stay underneth bar bar its going to continue back towards the front seats closer to the wall. Im going to wrap the entire box in fat mat and then paint it. Probably going to drill the amp onto the back of the box and put soem neons around it or something.
Old 12-27-2004, 12:10 AM
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OgreDave
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Originally posted by the7ferret
He will be fine.

You can get it down to 1ohm bridged / 2ohms stereo.
Any less than that and your gonna need a high current amp and thats gonna require some heavy wire. and $$$$$
He will be fine, but let's not confuse him.

D4 parallel can only go to 2ohm mono.

As for heavy wire & $$ .. class D is the cheapest power you can get, and 4ga kit's by KnuKoncepts are $36 or $38 shipped. Not as expensive as you think ..
Old 12-27-2004, 12:31 AM
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OgreDave
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Just wanted to add .. from what I just read .. Vibe does '1262 at 14.4 to be exact' ..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=38638

If you want to look
Old 12-27-2004, 08:50 AM
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My vote is for a US Amps USA-1000 or USA-2000 your choice if you want the extra headroom. Pricey, yes. But worth EVERY penny. The US Amps in my wifes truck has been running a strong 1200 watts RMs for 8 years now.
Old 12-27-2004, 08:51 AM
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Linky

http://www.usamps.com/
Old 12-27-2004, 08:53 AM
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MIAPLAYA
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Pics from my old set up in my Frontier, and yes they come in many other colors..



Old 12-27-2004, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion. I have top bid on a JBL 1200.1 with only 8 hours left till close. If someone outbids me i found a USA-1000 on ebay for $250 buy it now slightly used that i think i will buy. The only problem is it's not mono, its a 2 channel amp so i'll have to bridge it, but oh well i guess thats not a big deal.
Old 12-27-2004, 11:15 AM
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Originally posted by AParshall04
Thanks for the suggestion. I have top bid on a JBL 1200.1 with only 8 hours left till close. If someone outbids me i found a USA-1000 on ebay for $250 buy it now slightly used that i think i will buy. The only problem is it's not mono, its a 2 channel amp so i'll have to bridge it, but oh well i guess thats not a big deal.
Not at all. Mine is running bridged right now and always has. A USA-1000 bridged to 2 ohms is 1000 watts rms. Some of the older ones could go down to 1/4 ohm.
Old 12-27-2004, 11:49 AM
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the7ferret
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get the usamps, that amp will put faith back into Made in america.
I have seen a single usa-400 (400 watts rms at 2 ohms bridged) move a wall of 4 15's. And it was stupid painfully loud.

its the only company i would stake any money on.

thier secret i think is voltage behind the wattage.
Old 12-27-2004, 11:53 AM
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Originally posted by the7ferret
get the usamps, that amp will put faith back into Made in america.
I have seen a single usa-400 (400 watts rms at 2 ohms bridged) move a wall of 4 15's. And it was stupid painfully loud.

its the only company i would stake any money on.

thier secret i think is voltage behind the wattage.
It depends on which I USA-400 it was. I have the older model USA-400 that put out 1200 watts rms at 2 ohms and would run ALL DAY...These amps are built to last and built with power in mind. They DESTROYED every other high current amp in the CA&E mag shootout.
Old 12-27-2004, 11:56 AM
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the7ferret
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yea, it was the older model, but the best part about them is that you can keep stacking on speakers and it will keep putting out. The power supply on them is soooooooooo big it can handel crazy loads. Drawback is that it needs a LOT of power, hence the multiple power and ground inputs.
Old 12-27-2004, 12:00 PM
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Originally posted by the7ferret
yea, it was the older model, but the best part about them is that you can keep stacking on speakers and it will keep putting out. The power supply on them is soooooooooo big it can handel crazy loads. Drawback is that it needs a LOT of power, hence the multiple power and ground inputs.
Yeah I know mine used to push 8 12s in an Eclsipse long ago. And yeah the power requirements are wicked. 3 8 AWG power in, 3 8 AWG grounds. Recommended fuse rating of 146 amps. Current drawer is fierce but the power just keeps going and going...

Last edited by MIAPLAYA; 12-27-2004 at 12:04 PM.
Old 12-27-2004, 01:24 PM
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OgreDave
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Regarding USAmps:

1) Buyer beware of buying from Milotronics on eBay.
2) They were just acquired (bought out) by another company. Your take on that is .. your take
Old 12-27-2004, 01:27 PM
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the7ferret
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only buy usamps from a dealer, online thier are no guarentees to a quality product. And with ebay, you must tread carefully.
two things to look at are how long he has been a member and whats his ratings.

I have dealt with ebay no probs but as always buyer beware, and use paypal or your visa. that way you get buyer protection.
Old 12-27-2004, 01:27 PM
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Originally posted by OgreDave
Regarding USAmps:

1) Buyer beware of buying from Milotronics on eBay.
2) They were just acquired (bought out) by another company. Your take on that is .. your take
Who bought them out?


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