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Can I add a subwoofer to stock headunit?

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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 07:56 PM
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Default Can I add a subwoofer to stock headunit?

Hey guys I was wondering if I could add a subwoofer to the non bose factory system? If so how would you do it since there aren't any amp inputs. I just don't want to mess with the overall look of the console. Thanks
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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the OEM amp can't handle your subwoofer
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 08:44 PM
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you could add something like an infinity basslink that has a built in amplifier, but it'd still take a little work because you'll need to get a converter box thing to make RCAs from your existing speaker wires
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 09:17 PM
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Is it difficult to wire up a bazooka bass tube?
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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I'll be attempting this soon Zman. I'm not interested in changing out my stock radio either... I like the factory look. You should be able to take the factory left/right front speaker wires and extend them to an amp. The from the amp to the sub again... I'll let you know how it goes. It may be up to a month before I get it done. I'm just starting the fiberglass box on monday.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by blswan
I'll be attempting this soon Zman. I'm not interested in changing out my stock radio either... I like the factory look. You should be able to take the factory left/right front speaker wires and extend them to an amp. The from the amp to the sub again... I'll let you know how it goes. It may be up to a month before I get it done. I'm just starting the fiberglass box on monday.
Thanks and please let me know how things turn out......
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 02:27 AM
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Umm...definately don't use the front speakers to use as left and rights for the amp...that would require you to draw the wires from the inside of the door panels through the rubber grommet in the door and extended back to the rear of the car. Now you may be thinking that running the wires through the grommet doesn't sound that bad, but TRUST ME, you don't want to do this, it requires drilling and lots of time.

I started the install of my new front speakers today and i have to run wire through the door, i am almost done with 1 side and it took me about 3.5 hours, about 2 of that was just running wires through the door. The rear speakers are super easy to get to, just pop off the plastic panels. Go to the how to section of the forums and it will tell you which colored wires are + and -.

Basslinks fit better in our cars than bazooka tubes if you want to look stock because you can fit it behind the drivers seat in the stock sub location.
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Old Dec 31, 2005 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bubble
the OEM amp can't handle your subwoofer
i hope he wasnt consierign useing the oem amp for the sub. all you need to do is buy one of the adapter wiring harnesses, im sure they sell them in lots of places, adn run an aftermarket amp and sub. i would recomend getting a new headunit though or at lesat some kind of balanced line adapter to up your preout voltage.
oh and btw i would not recomned getting a basslink or basstube or anything of those lines. theres tons of options out there that are better.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:21 AM
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Do a search - but essentially someone on this board put a spectrum analyser on the output of the front and rear speakers of the stock non-bose headunit. The rears are missing almost all the base. The front's base slopes off below 80-100 hz - somewhere in there.

You'll be trying to boost a non-existant signal. Also, after the setting of around 23, the units clips bad.

The stock head unit is the devil. You could also think of it this way - you can take a turd and polish it up, but in the end, its just a shiny turd.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:40 AM
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Has anyone attempted this with a JL cleansweep? I was thinking of using the stock head unit and a JL with a decent 1/2/3 channel amp and a set of components up front. I'm sure the cleansweep would give near-aftermarket radio sound to your existing radio and it would give you the RCA-out that you would need to run the amp for the rear-sub.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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you cannot use a clean sweep on it .. since it is notch filtered at 80Hz .. the JL cannot create a frequecy that is not there ... it can only boost what has been attenuated.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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so is there any speaker line that is full range? I'm guessing not......
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JimRHIT
you cannot use a clean sweep on it .. since it is notch filtered at 80Hz .. the JL cannot create a frequecy that is not there ... it can only boost what has been attenuated.


Is the filter in-line or directly incorporated into the HU? I.E. if you were to re-run new wires and/or remove a filter in the line would it work?
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Ill you need is a line leval converter for like 40ish bucks i think, it just tkae speaker wire and makes it RCA wire for any and all amps, not self amped subs though, simple and you keep teh stock HU, but u get not kinds of sub control
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by therock2689
Ill you need is a line leval converter for like 40ish bucks i think, it just tkae speaker wire and makes it RCA wire for any and all amps, not self amped subs though, simple and you keep teh stock HU, but u get not kinds of sub control
stop posting drunk.


a line output convertor WON'T work if you're not getting the frequencies through the speaker line that you're looking for (in this case, the low end frequencies). For a sub, you'd have to run a line output convertor off the wire going to the door drivers I guess.....hopefully those are only on a high pass filter.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:31 AM
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The point is, the frequencies are not there. The head unit does not produce them. Asside from re-engineering the PCB board inside the stock radio, there is nothing you can do to make it create those frequencies. There is no jumper, no resistor, no nothing. Boosting nothing = a big loud nothing.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGraphics
The point is, the frequencies are not there. The head unit does not produce them. Asside from re-engineering the PCB board inside the stock radio, there is nothing you can do to make it create those frequencies. There is no jumper, no resistor, no nothing. Boosting nothing = a big loud nothing.
I can't find the thread you're referring to. This guy uses the stock head unit and tested w/ a RTSA and has frequency response down to 25hz accrording to his posts:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/149028-finally-done-thanks-for-everyone-s-help.html
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Racerinlsl
stop posting drunk.


a line output convertor WON'T work if you're not getting the frequencies through the speaker line that you're looking for (in this case, the low end frequencies). For a sub, you'd have to run a line output convertor off the wire going to the door drivers I guess.....hopefully those are only on a high pass filter.
Your right, i didnt think about that, im srry. Listen to everone else, i must be on crack and to high to notice.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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Actually, a line output converter will work just fine. Call crutchfield, itts what the recommend for just that situation.
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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGraphics
The point is, the frequencies are not there. The head unit does not produce them. Asside from re-engineering the PCB board inside the stock radio, there is nothing you can do to make it create those frequencies. There is no jumper, no resistor, no nothing. Boosting nothing = a big loud nothing.

I have a cheap line output converter tapped into the rear speaker wires right behind the stock non-bose headunit. And my jl subs bump just fine.
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