Some questions for the detector hardwire gurus
01-11-2003, 11:21 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Some questions for the detector hardwiring gurus
Hi,
I recently bought a V1 and am looking at hardwiring it into my Z. I've read all the threads about hardwiring and I've seen all of the pictures. I understand the process, but after looking at my Z I've still got a few questions about the process.
1 - When running the wire under the headliner and down the doorpanel to the fusebox, did you use anything to actually secure the wire in place? It seems to me that it could easily come loose, especially along the doorframe where it runs down to the fusebox.
2 - I was only able to find one potential grounding location, and I'm not sure if it will ground to the chassis. It's a nut on a bolt just above the fusebox. I've seen others mention grounding to a screw below the fusebox, but I'm curious how to access that area without removing body panels. I'd rather not remove anything other than the fusebox door, but that space is so tight that it seems like it's difficuly to work in without creating a little more space. Any tips on easily accessible grounding locations or general tips for working in such a small space?
3 - For those who used the V1 hardwiring kit, where did you put the junction box that the V1 cable plugs into and the hardwire cables run out of? I may end up just clipping off the end of the V1 cable as Dr. Bonz did, but I'm curious where the others placed the hardwiring junction box that was secure enough that it didn't bounce or rattle around. Any suggestions?
I don't want this to turn into a V1 vs. 8500 discussion, I'm just looking for a little advice from anyone who has hardwired their detector, regardless of the model. Thanks for any help.
Gary
I recently bought a V1 and am looking at hardwiring it into my Z. I've read all the threads about hardwiring and I've seen all of the pictures. I understand the process, but after looking at my Z I've still got a few questions about the process.
1 - When running the wire under the headliner and down the doorpanel to the fusebox, did you use anything to actually secure the wire in place? It seems to me that it could easily come loose, especially along the doorframe where it runs down to the fusebox.
2 - I was only able to find one potential grounding location, and I'm not sure if it will ground to the chassis. It's a nut on a bolt just above the fusebox. I've seen others mention grounding to a screw below the fusebox, but I'm curious how to access that area without removing body panels. I'd rather not remove anything other than the fusebox door, but that space is so tight that it seems like it's difficuly to work in without creating a little more space. Any tips on easily accessible grounding locations or general tips for working in such a small space?
3 - For those who used the V1 hardwiring kit, where did you put the junction box that the V1 cable plugs into and the hardwire cables run out of? I may end up just clipping off the end of the V1 cable as Dr. Bonz did, but I'm curious where the others placed the hardwiring junction box that was secure enough that it didn't bounce or rattle around. Any suggestions?
I don't want this to turn into a V1 vs. 8500 discussion, I'm just looking for a little advice from anyone who has hardwired their detector, regardless of the model. Thanks for any help.
Gary
Last edited by GaryM05; 01-11-2003 at 11:34 AM.
01-11-2003, 02:50 PM
#2
You just tuck it under the headliner and under the pillar cushion. I used a credit card to push it under there and there is no way it can come out unless you really pull it out on purpose.
I didn't have to remove any panels to find a ground. I just used a nut that was on a bolt under there. Not sure what it was but it worked fine.
As far as access, it's tough. I pushed the seat all the way back and had a light under there so I could see. You almost have to slide under there upside down with your lower back on the seat.
As far as my wiring, I have never had any "flickers" or anything like that. It seems to work well
I didn't have to remove any panels to find a ground. I just used a nut that was on a bolt under there. Not sure what it was but it worked fine.
As far as access, it's tough. I pushed the seat all the way back and had a light under there so I could see. You almost have to slide under there upside down with your lower back on the seat.
As far as my wiring, I have never had any "flickers" or anything like that. It seems to work well
01-22-2003, 08:01 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your advice, Bonz. I was able to get my V1 hardwired last weekend thanks to a ton of help from Shogun.
We used the stock power cord (without the hardwire kit,) and clipped off one of the connectors to access the bare wires. Incidentally, we found the opposite in my cord to what Bonz had: my red wire was power and the green was ground. So for anyone else out there using this method, it definitely pays to check your leads BEFORE you start making the connections. It could save a few minutes at install time.
Thanks again Bonz and Shogun!
Gary
We used the stock power cord (without the hardwire kit,) and clipped off one of the connectors to access the bare wires. Incidentally, we found the opposite in my cord to what Bonz had: my red wire was power and the green was ground. So for anyone else out there using this method, it definitely pays to check your leads BEFORE you start making the connections. It could save a few minutes at install time.
Thanks again Bonz and Shogun!
Gary
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