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Oil change with aftermarket oil cooler

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Old 10-01-2015, 03:07 AM
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XM 1
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Default Oil change with aftermarket oil cooler

so it's about time that the 350 needs a oil change (first time after oil cooler install)...and all of the sudden there's this question in my mind....how do i get the oil out of the cooler without unmounting it .
so i just need some input from you guys how you do a oil change with an aftermarket oil cooler installed.
btw do you guys replace the oil lines running to the cooler at some point?
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:16 AM
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vex008
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I am in the market for an oil cooler (been searching for the arc but no luck) this also never came across my mind until you mentioned. very good question.
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:29 AM
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I think you just drain the pan and that's all you can get out


But that's just my idea. Very wondered the same
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:58 AM
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My SCCA 350Z racecar is equipped with a Setrab oil cooler. Even though this vehicle gets operated at, or near redline throughout the summer, I never drain the lines or the cooler itself when changing the oil/filter. If you're keeping decent intervals (under 4K miles), I don't see a big reason to do so. Oil supply in the oil filter system is at most, a quart, and changing the other five quarts seems sufficient to me.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:50 AM
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well that's funny that no one really thought about this i have a ARC oil cooler and i think you have to add another 1 litre or so to the amount you already use with the oil change...imo 1 litre is a lot of burned oil !?!?! thought about just disconnecting the two lines from my sandwich plate and push the oil out with some compressed air....but not really sure if that's a good thing to do or not. maybe someone will come up with a solution
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dkmura View Post
My SCCA 350Z racecar is equipped with a Setrab oil cooler. Even though this vehicle gets operated at, or near redline throughout the summer, I never drain the lines or the cooler itself when changing the oil/filter. If you're keeping decent intervals (under 4K miles), I don't see a big reason to do so. Oil supply in the oil filter system is at most, a quart, and changing the other five quarts seems sufficient to me.

+1. I warm mine up a bit and then pull the drain plug and let it sit for a good long time to drain. I always change my filter as well. I have heard of others that don't change it every time
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by XM 1 View Post
well that's funny that no one really thought about this i have a ARC oil cooler and i think you have to add another 1 litre or so to the amount you already use with the oil change...imo 1 litre is a lot of burned oil !?!?! thought about just disconnecting the two lines from my sandwich plate and push the oil out with some compressed air....but not really sure if that's a good thing to do or not. maybe someone will come up with a solution

Man, I thought I babied my car... Lol. That seems unreasonable to do every time to me.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by XM 1 View Post
imo 1 litre is a lot of burned oil !?!?! thought about just disconnecting the two lines from my sandwich plate and push the oil out with some compressed air....but not really sure if that's a good thing to do or not. maybe someone will come up with a solution
If you have "burned oil" in your supply, you'd better disassemble everything and clean it out. Same goes if you find any metal shavings or a metallic sheen when doing your oil change. But before you go looking for a complex "solution", there better be a good reason to pursue it. And I wouldn't blow compressed air through my oil lines unless there was a very good reason to do it...
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:34 AM
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Blowing out all the lines with air is a big no no. Wouldn't that st as re your engine for a while till everything is filled up with oil after a dry start?
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:26 PM
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+1 on not bothering with it. Just size your cooler appropriately and it wont be much of an issue.

Originally Posted by HRMoneyPit View Post
Blowing out all the lines with air is a big no no. Wouldn't that st as re your engine for a while till everything is filled up with oil after a dry start?
Technically no, as with a thermostatic adapter like the Mocal most of the oil bypasses the cooler until the engine reaches operating temperature. Since there is oil in the sump the oil pump gets oil through the filter and to the engine. Though it is true that air in the cooler circuit when forced out does get pushed through the system and aerated oil is not really a good thing.

+1 definitely no compressed air. And fiddling with oil lines unnecessarily is asking for trouble.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:57 PM
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I disconnect my lines and let gravity drain them to my oil spill pan...

I go as far as pre-filling both my filter and my cooler/lines as best as I can...I wouldnt overthink it.

Last edited by bealljk; 10-01-2015 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:44 PM
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thanks guys for all the input you it should be ok to just drain the oil as usually without touching the cooler.

with the compressed air i thought more about just the oil cooler...with both lines disconnected from the engine! of course
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:24 AM
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instead of starting a new thread, I wanted to just bring this one back up.

Installing a oil cooler is on my list to do before next track season.
I noticed the Mishimoto cooler has the the cooler installed with the lines on the bottom.
<-see video. (3:30)

Some other companies I've see the cooler installed with the lines on the top.

What ways do you guys have yours installed and why?
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:48 PM
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Ideally mounted so ports are on top or the side filling from the bottom up, but mounted on bottom should not be a problem. Just keep the lines safe, and remember to get your fill level correct. My ports face up.

As dkmura summed up, draining the extra quart of oil shouldnt really matter if you keep your intervals up.
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Old 02-02-2018, 11:45 PM
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Nice

Last edited by .:'3lio':.; 02-02-2018 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 02-03-2018, 06:21 AM
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I just treat it like a normal oil change.
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:27 AM
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I believe whatever oil is in the line is OK if its not drained. When you put new oil in that 1% of oil in the line is going to get mixed with 99% new oil.

I don't have an oil cooler to comment based on experience but I would like to know since oil cooler def on my to - do list.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by XM 1 View Post
so it's about time that the 350 needs a oil change (first time after oil cooler install)...and all of the sudden there's this question in my mind....how do i get the oil out of the cooler without unmounting it .
so i just need some input from you guys how you do a oil change with an aftermarket oil cooler installed.
btw do you guys replace the oil lines running to the cooler at some point?
If you run the lines in the bottom of the cooler some say it will cause the oil to drain and form an air bubble. However one line comes from the pump and the other goes to the engine. Both are fairly tight and should not be a problem if you drive the car at least once a week.
Think about installing a small drain **** into the lines or if you mount the cooler on its side you would only need one drain. In any case, if you do not fill the pan with the same amount of oil the cooler contains it will be low by that same amount.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:24 PM
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Dan Garcia
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Default oil cooler

picked up a used oil cooler for my 300, it has one already but it is kind of small so it is getting upgraded to a larger size. i will designate the OEM cooler for the transmission, just have to clean it really good before i run new lines to the transmission. plus it came with a good mounting bracket.
Attached Thumbnails Oil change with aftermarket oil cooler-s-l1600-1.jpg  

Last edited by Dan Garcia; 06-12-2018 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Garcia View Post
i will designate the OEM cooler for the transmission, just have to clean it really good before i run new lines to the transmission. plus is came with a good mounting bracket.
The USDM spec 350Z never came with an engine oil cooler. Whatever you're cleaning is an aftermarket component. Are you trying to cool an automatic tranny?
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