to all that have subs in the rear drivers side corner (over where the bose amp is or in my case would be).

What size sub to you have there?
Is it a fiberglass enclosure?
How does it sound?
How much did you pay for the enclosure?

thanks

 

http://www.wickedcas.com/store/produ...products_id=50

I just found this - magic box. Does anybody know how it stays in place? Does it vibrate?

 

http://www.wickedcas.com/store/produ...products_id=50

I just found this - magic box. Does anybody know how it stays in place? Does it vibrate?

 

I don't know how this particular enclosure is secured, but if you remove the sub while the enclosure is in place, you have the ability to run screws through the bottom or rear of the enclosure from the inside of the box out.

I wouldn't think that this would be the preferred method as it would require you to run screws into either the OEM carpet and board located under it or into the plastic trunk paneling.

 

when i looked at hte Z, a 10 would be your best bet, a 12 would most likely require too much air space and make the enclousre too big.

this seems to be ag ood box in the picture, and well finished, and the price is fair as well. if its well built (rigid fiberglass, well sealed etc), i think it would work well...just remember to choose a sub box that requires a smaller enclosure. my vote would be for an image dynamicd idq10

b

 

i have very simular box with 10" sub in the same spot.
and the box doesn't have any thing to hold on the same spot so my sub box was dancing around in the trunk then i found a very simple solution to hold it on the exact spot.

as you see from the picture (tread#3 by eez), i put my sub box slightly under the trunk net (in the picture, trunk net is under sub box). that trunk net is holding my sub box in location perfectly for 6 mo.

its so funny that simple thing is holding it well.

so far, my opinion on the sub corner box are:
1. good if you run not too powerful sub/amp because it has vey small cu.ft. space so big sub wouldn't fit or wouldn't sound right.
2. for space saving, it is amazingly good.
3. no way not to make trunk vibrate (unless whole trunk is covered by dynamat which will make trunk even more heavey)

overall, i give 85 out of 100. will i buy it again? yes.

 

one thing about securing the subboxes, i always FULL secure the subboxes to the vehcile in every intsall i do. it sone thing to secure it so when you corner it doesnt fly around, but, waht happens, if god forbid, you get into a serious accident and roll? the sub box and sub, together weighting 25-50 lbs, can beling a flying projectile...not good...

is this always going to happen in an accident? of course not, but i prefer not to think what would ahppen when soeone gets hit in the head by a dence, sharp and heavy object travelling at high speed

the few small holes you riwll get in the car whcih are totally unseen to me, is worth it for this peace of mind

 

i don't think sub box can fly out from that tiny narrow trunk with fat strut bar and hit my head. i think strut bar secures that part...

thanks to nissan for fat strut bar with very narrow trunk design. hehe.

 

Don't know if you are looking for ideas or just if the price is OK. If you are handy you could do this (below pics) and go total stealth. I used a Boston 10" sub and the enclosure is 0.5 cubic feeet. MDF top with custom fiberglass bottom piece made by yours truley. I spent about $100 on materials and it took many many hours. It sounds great but I do like the one you are showing too. Just wasn't available when I did mine. I am happy I stuck it out and still have the whole trunk but if you are willing to pay the $300 for that you will save yourself one big headache. Seems like a fair price and a no-brainer to me if you want something pre-built. There is a lot of labor involved. Good luck!

 

That is very nicely done!!! how does it sound??

 

Well, that's a pretty open question depending on the rest of the system components but I am very pleased with the sound. With an EQ in the system I can get it to sound however I want I guess. Boston subs have a great reputation and the placement under the floor firing up in the hatch is ideal to maximize bass in this car. Depending on the CD I'm playing I can feel the bass vibrate my skull a little . I've measured as much as 127dB still sounding clean. I think that's great for 1 10" with 150W pushing it.

 

p.s. Here is my whole system...

https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/149028-finally-done-thanks-for-everyone-s-help.html

I've got a whole memory card full of pics if you want to see something else I might have. I'd be happy to help any way I can.

 

thats great, I think I might try to place a sub in the same place. I was thinking of putting it in the stock sub placement behind the seat, but I heard it sounds like crap there. I also didnt want to lose my spare or any trunk space. and your setup looks to be ideal for that

where did you put your amp or amps then??

and do you have any good websites for how to make a fiberglass box like that??

 

I was tempted to do behind the seat too after I saw the trunk stripped out for the first time. I was intimidated. The space is there but at a very odd shape, etc. But I read enough bad things about that location to stick with it. I'll probably have some time at lunch to put together a little more help for you. Stay tuned...

 

cool thanks

 

dude that is awesome

 

eez - Thanks. I worked really hard on it.

enderokc - you will find a lot of fiberglass help on the internet.
I'll warn you first that this requires a sub that does not require a large amount of mounting depth. But if you go
through with it I'm sure you will have a few choices for drivers.

Lots of us here can help you with tips on fiberglassing.
Here are a few sites to hit -
http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/
http://www.maximacar.com/fiberglas_box_construction.htm

you can literally spend weeks researching this. I did because I could never catch on how to lay down the first layer in the
car and form the sides of the enclosure. Cardboard and foam are helpful to build barriers to fiberglass up against (protected with
layers and layers of masking tape of course).

I kind of showed early on how I got started...

http://home.sprynet.com/~redar/

I just masking taped the side wall, formed some carboard between the wheel well and spare tire and put
a thick piece of cardboard around the spare and taped it, etc.
You have to build a form for the box when doing it this way.

Anyway, the first mold was easy to create and pop out. Building up multiple layers was easy but TIME CONSUMING!
Getting the shape for the top was easy by turning the fiberglass tub upside down and tracing it onto the MDF. The hard part
was where to put the hole for the driver and building a double MDF spacer ring to sink it down flush and also then
trying to get the height of the enclosure right so that the driver does not touch the bottom of the box and it still is flush
to the trunk floor. I pulled my hair out over the last details even though I had hours and hours of planning. I had no idea
that I would spend so much time hand fitting it and re-measuring so many things.


I don't want to steal eez's thread unless interested more in this too. Let me know what other kind of help you need. PM me if you need to.


And also, do an advanced search and put in bjr or bjr48 in the user name field to see other places I talked about making this. One of
them has a link to two very old posts showing where two other members did this. Let me know if you need help finding thier posts/pics.
If you go through with this you need all the support and info you can get.

 

bjr
I see that you have it on the driver side. Do you know if your set up will hold 10" on both sides?

 

Thanks a lot bjr!!! that will help greatly!!

sorry eez, for kindof hi-jacking this thread

 

All I can say for sure is maybe! Almost everything on the car is same on the driver's and passenger's side. What you will need to do is relocate all of the jack hardware somewhere else in the car. For my exact box, no because I cheated and moved the tire over to the passenger side and bolted it back down with a lug hole rather than the center hole, leaving less space than "stock" on the passenger side. If I remade the box I could have avoided having to do this but like I said I went for it and changed things along the way to make it fit. The unknown is if the sheetmetal in the trunk is identical after you remove the styrofoam forms for the jack and if anything is hiding on the side wall behind the rear felt panel. I would guess that you could but can't say 100%
Also, you are evil for planting that idea in my head. Two 10's would absolutely rock. If those subs were still available, I had the money, I hadn't promised me and my wife I was done, and the spare tire had not moved I would be starting that project tonight! Maybe someone else will do it?