rmesola

iTrader: (2)

Planning an install soon, have a few questions...

1. is the dome light supervision part of the package or is an optional part needed.... do I need a relay? OEM alarm already has it, can I leave it alone and let the oem alarm manage it?

2. Do I need relays for the door locks? which is better to tap BCM or in the door?

3. what other outputs need relays?

4. anybody used aux to open trunk and fuel door? relays?

5. which relays do you guys use? what specs? Diodes?

6. anybody have a pic of the control module and what all those connections are for? manual doesn't label it (or I missed it)

7. finally do you know if this model is ESP compatible?

thanks for any help...

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

>6. anybody have a pic of the control module and what all those connections are for? manual doesn't label it (or I missed it)

You can't begin without an accurate wiring manual to determine the in/output and -/+ active. Guessing wires will fry your car.

Check for info on www.the12volt.com and return the alarm for one with a wiring manual.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

I do have the service manual and the12volt.com guides....

My bad, didn't read the manual to the end (back had diagram)

Reason I ask this particular question is I need to know if the 515esp siren will work with it...

thanks

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

I found an ESP serial port reference on a web search, but it didn't clarify the siren application you mention. Did you check on DEI's web site? the12volt has great operation guides for current isolation. If after studying their detailed info it isn't clear how to apply them to your Z, I strongly advice having an experienced Pro shop do the install. There are too many ways to result with a flaky car or ineffective alarm.

cmayer

i would highly advise taking your car to a shop to get it professionally done. Big box stores are fine if you find a good installer at one. If something happens at a big box store they have the money to get it fixed, where the mom and pop stores dont usually make a lot to cover damages. either way just find a good installer and you'll be fine.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

I'm leaning towards that way, but I want to buy everything since the installer overcharges for all the pieces... a relay could easily cost 20 bucks from them...

thanks for any other info

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

Granted it's annoying being overcharged for little parts. What's much worse is having a flaky alarm wake your neighbors at 3am. That was my suffering from a bad Installer. It worked fine for a year....then I had to replace everything. It only hurts once to have it done right initially.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

I'm not stingy by any means and I will pay labor for what it actually costs... I probably end up paying the same but I hate it when my original quote gets jacked up by miscellaneous parts that are over priced 200% or more...

There's a charge for labor, and I pay it... if they want to make more money they charge more for labor...

that's why I want to know what to expect from an installer when it comes to extra parts...

btw, I've already decided I'm not doing it myself...

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

For your info, its best to go in to the doors to get the door lock and unlock. This is because the factory alarm arm and disarm is also found there, as well as window up and window down control.

The Vipers alarms typically don't have many outputs, I believe they have 2 from memory, but its been a while. Having limited outputs will restrict what options you can and can't do. I would definatly look for the window control on one channel (up and down) and trunk pop.

If you go in to the doors you won't need any relays for door locks. If you choose to use one aux channel to control both windows you'll need one relay.

You should be able to run trunk pop and fuel door without relays, if you so choose to do so. Also, dome light can be done with a (-) output, no relay needed.

With remote start you'll need one extra relay for the 2nd starter, and you'll of course need the 556U transponder bypass.

Look for a Bosch style relay with a harness that has all five wires in it. A relay without a harness is basically worthless during an install, as they will most likely charge you more to install it, as it will take longer to wire up. For typical installations only the start kill relay has a diode across it

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info... that's useful to know...

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

Your 791xv can open your hatch, and roll your windows both up and down. No extra parts are needed for the hatch release, or to get your windows to go up and down. Your 791 has 3 extra channels to add options on to. If you look at your remote, this is the set up I did for an '05 Altima for the same alarm. The "aux" button will pop your hatch, pressing the "lock" and "aux" buttons will get your windows to go down, "unlock" and the orange "*" button will get your windows to go back up. You will need 2 keys for the install, one of which you will not be getting back. The extra key will be placed in a box with a black wire attached to it. That wire will be put around your ignition and that is what "tricks" the car into thinking that the key is in the ignition and allows the car to remote start. That part should be around $55 and the could possibly charge $25 to install it. They may also charge to get your hatch to pop and windows to go up and down, even though it will probably take the installer about 2 min to hook up all 3 wires, haha.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

Nice to know these tidbits as I'm going to have them put in an amp and speakers at the same time, so I could try and negotiate with labor....

If they're going to open the door panels anyway, they shouldn't charge that much extra for the speakers...

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

>amp and speakers at the same time, so I could try and negotiate with labor....

You could get half off one speaker install since the alarm install only needs access to the driver's door. Don't forget sound matting the doors with the speaker install.

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

If you dont have the Bose system you could have them install the amp in the compartment where the bose sub usually goes. I have 2 amps, capacitor, xm and sirius boxes, 2 power inverters and I still have more crap to throw in haha

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

i was looking at putting a sub in the stock location and use a custom box,

I will try and have them squeeze the amp in between the sub and the glove box...

space is premium in this car and I don't like using the understrut box

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

The speaker's supplied power is less than the amp's used power. The conversion loss sinks heat into the amp's case. If you plug the stock spot with a amp/sub, you need to add "quiet" fans to vent the A frame during the hot days.

Good luck.

rmesola

iTrader: (2)

anything wrong with under the seat amp installs?

dream724Z

iTrader: (1)

The amp needs >1" airflow below the seat sag. Its ideal dimensions are 2.5"H x 13"W x 10"L. PPI, FG, and Alpine make great affordable compact amps.