Diminishing returns 240Z.

Take it from and acoustic engineer here .... an amplifier can make or break your system. In the case of using a stock stereo with a high quality speakers .. you are breaking the system. The stock HU is internally EQ'd and limited to protect (as well as enhance) the stock speakers.

I'l agree that speakers are your first upgrade .. but there is a definite need to upgrade the source at some point too. In a car .. who cares ... noise floor is so high that it is worthless to do extensive upgrade ... unless its free

 

In looking at the stock HU, I'll agree that it is a major limiting factor on the sound reproduction. I'm glad you agree with my advice to upgrade the speakers first.
My order of business is:
1. upgrade OEM speakers
2. new HU
3. add sub w/amp

During this process I also plan to improve the sound insulation to cut down on road noise and unwanted vibrations.

 

Unless your stock speakers are blown, why would you upgrade your OEM speakers without upgrading your stock HU?

I am not familiar with the 350 BOSE system. As for poor audio quality, a standard 350z base HU is just as much to blame as your stock speakers. Higher wattage output to your speakers will provide better dynamics. If you don't believe me, any reliable stereo shop will tell you the same thing.

I agree with JimRHIT, amplifiers are just as important as your HU.

Word of advice for stereo shopping, listen with your ears and not with your eyes.

 

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...reo/faq.html#7

Really don't see how a factory base HU can power any decent aftermarket speakers. Higher end Focals, Diamonds, Dynnaudio, Helix, MB Quarts, etc. all require < 75watt RMS.

 

Because stock speakers are designed with an acoustic goal in mind. They are designed and voiced to sound acceptable and to pass environmental testing.

Simple fact ... factory 6.5" speakers cost in the range of ~$1.95 to $3.00 per speaker .. that includes shipping to the assembly line. I know this b/c I used to design these. The only OEM speaker system that I can proudly say I was part of is the Cobalt SS system .... other than that ... these systems are based on filling a hole with the best possible output for the dollar (reliably of course).

Granted, your $200 6.5" components only really cost ~$18 .. maybe $26 to make (including box/manuals/grills) .... but they sure have a lot more engineering and value added content than your cheap OEM crap.

My point .. your factory speakers are as good as blown (in most cars) .. just do yourself a favor and replace them when you are doing the other work on the car.

 

Most HUs can power anything put in front of them ... they just have a problem with transients and dynamics .. problem with most manufacturer's high-end suff is the low senstivity (and the 2ohm/1.5ohm dcr) ... which kills most HUs over any period of time.

 

Well said!

That's why you rarely use HU power in any true SQ setup. I've yet to see a 6.5 component capable of a 2ohm load. HELIX A series amps is capable of a 2ohm load each channel! Back to basics - HU for signal processing, amp for power, and speakers for output. How well you define each stage depends on your SQ or SPL preferences.

 

Couldn't have said it better! ++++1

 

Could someone recommend:

1. A 6.5 component speaker set under 150

and

2. A 6.5 Coaxil set around 100

What modifications are needed to install these in the Z? Spacers on the fronts?

Thanks in advance.

 

I would stay away from a 2-way speaker and go with seperates. Maybe go with a 2-way for the rear speakers, but you definately want the seperates up front. I have 2 sets of FOCAL 165 V1's in my car and the sound quality is UNBELEIVEABLE!
Sorry FOCAL's aren't $150 however. Just remember the old addage "you get what you pay for." If you buy a cheap set of speakers, then you will get a cheap set of speakers. Spend the money and get a good set of seperates, you will not be sorry!

Oh, and by the way I went with NAZAR's door pods and got rid of those factory grills that aim your speakers at the floor and block out your sound!

 

I would have to agree with the Professor...the HU is the brains of the system, upgrade this first and you'll end up spending less in the future...just my 2cents!

 

What about these speakers:

1 - KAPPA 60.7CS 6.5" - 155 shipped

2 - JL AUDIO VR650-CSi 6.5" 186 shipped

3 - Alpine SPS-171A 6.5" - 120 Shipped

4 - MB QUART RCE 216 Component System 6-1/2 - 150 Shipped

CDT AUDIO CL-60CV 6.5 INCH - 150 + Shipping

These are what I'm looking at in my price range... any suggestions?

 

Kappa or CDT at that price, best tweeters in the group

 

Does anyone know where to get the CDT "open box" or defect speakers. I remember a while ago people getting great deals on them because the colors were off or something.. Can't find the thread though.

Thanks!

 

The RCEs would be your best bet. Cardomain.com has a MB Quart Sale going on right now too.

 

I would strongly recommend you going with seperates as opposed to a coax. speaker, especially in the doors.............but it's your car and your money.

 

The CDT online store has occassinal defect items. I believe they call them B-stock. CDT.com or through Ebay, same thing.

 

I would have to disagree with your audophile friend here as others have also done. As Jim has said, you are going to see "diminishing returns" by not buying an amp. I can't believe an "audophile" would tell you this. An amp is going to do exactly that -- *amplify" the signal that your HU sends out. By running an amp to your speakers, you amplify signals that you would otherwise not be able to hear without an amp, resulting in much clearer music. For example, a nice set of MB Quart Q-series speakers hooked up to a HU w/o an amp is definitely not going to be pushed anywhere to its full potential without that amp.

 

If you take some time to actually read my two posts.. nowhere did I say to NOT buy an amp. I was inferring that money is always well spent on a good set of speakers... which goes in line what my audiophile friend recommended.

If I read your post, I could easily assume that you are inclined to keep the crap OEM speakers and spend the money on an amp... to what end??

The type of music you listen to & the level at which you listen are all subjective, hence my advice to listen to different ones to pick one that suits you. Amps within a set price range will perform fairly equal on the test bench... ultimately it is the speakers you are driving (and listening to) that your system will be judged on.

 

Guys it's easy, speakers only play what they hear. Crap in crap out no matter how good they are