Dynomat and liquid deadener function exactly the same. Some people have a preference. Sometimes it is hard to put liquid somewhere but the Dynomat will go there easy, sometimes the other way around. I picked all liquid because it seemed cheaper and easier to ME. Plus then there is more room for the foams. The closed cell foam on top of dynomat would be a good choice though. For about $60 more though you could get all of the jute you need for the whole car. The other stuff is the expensive items. If you go to secondskinaudio.com and look at their products they will claim that putting Overkill (which can also be called closed cell or neoprene) is the second most important thing you can add to your mat or liquid to quiet your ride. So it would not be a bad plan to only do dynomat and closed cell. While you have the whole car stripped and have spent hundreds already though I would recommend adding in an open cell foam or jute though.

 

Dynamat actually makes all sorts of sound control products including foam. Two of the products I used from them were Dynaliner (open-cell foam) and Tacmat (closed cell foam). But you are probably referring to their traditional dampening-mat or "Dynamat Extreme" which adds a layer of alum.

Vibration dampeners are awesome, they control vibrations mainly generated by the massive low freqs from subwoofers, and block some low freq noise. I used about 50 sq ft of Extreme-type matting. The foams (or jute) we mention would usually be applied above this ..in layers. The theory is dampener-->open-cell-->closed cell is supposed to work best as the closed cell blocks high freqs which are then absorbed by the open-cell.

Only problem with foams is trying to ge to the areas of application is time-consuming and someties they are too thick to put in certain spots.

 

Most of us call the area behind the seats the cubby area. Your glove box is here and the spot for the Bose sub. It is all bare metal and the gas tank is directly below it and in the back corner is the front half of the wheel wells and to each side past the seat belt retractors is an open path to the rear quarter panels and more wheel well. Noisy! If you get in there you will find the factory put down some padding that has a thick rubber layer on top of it to cut down on the fuel pump noise. This stuff is really nice and is basically what I tried to duplicate through out the whole car.

 

Bri, did you feel the Overkill was worth the $$. To me it seemed to thin to be very effective by itself....and pretty much the exact same material available elsewhere as neoprene. I used a ton of it, but wonder if it would have been better to get 1/4" bulk neoprene instead.

 

Boy this dial up at home is frustrating! I crashed one reply already. Keep the questions coming. I was going to add a couple of comments so I'll try and remember them for tomorrow.

 

YES! Even Nissan knew the benefit of Jute with a barrier layer on top. They just needed to add about 100sq ft more throughout the car.

 

Great write up, you certainly went all out. What's your set-up like?

 

Aha, now I'm getting it(more so than yesterday)! Thanks for the clear explanations bjr.
danni, thanks for your input as well, it was all very helpful.
So the liquid stuff can actually replace dynomat, (honestly I thought dynomat were the only thing that can stop vibrations before reading up this post)
So let me get this right: liquid deadner>>open or closed cell-foams>>jutes>>closed-cell foam to seal it off??
Still a little confused over difference between open and closed cell foams.
Thanks for your patience guys!

Cheers.

 

I don't know the technical road noise ratio, but GS-D3's are very significantly quieter than the factory RE040's. Huge drop in road noise when I had my GS-D3's fitted, especially over the rear wheel wells on very coarse chip and in wet weather.

 

So I bet that since I still have the RE040's in the front I did not notice much difference then. The fronts and rears seem to get worn out in about a 3 to 1 ratio the way things are going for me.

 

I could not tell any difference between Overkill and the dense quality neoprene from foambymail.com. From what I remember the price was nearly the same though only by $1 or $2 a sheet. Getting the 20% off price on Sludge,Overkill and glue in one order is what made me buy Overkill. If I could have found bulk and knew ahead of time that I would need so much I definately would buy neoprene in bulk.

 

Factory non-Bose HU for security reasons
to a David Navone Line converter.
Then it's split - straight to a Cadence VA600 amp for the front CDT CL-61 components up front. The factory HU has a 100Hz high pass filter built into it so the fronts sound nice driven straight. Then the other part of the y split goes to a Cadence parametric EQ to try and striaghten out the bass fromt the factory HU. This goes to the other channels in the VA600 bridged to a BA 10.5LF sub under the trunk floor in a custom fiberglass enclosure I built for it.
It is clean and loud and pretty detailed. Now that I figured out the best way to EQ the sub with what I've got I am very happy with it. If anyone else out there is keeping the factory HU be prepared to do some serious EQ. I should have got a 31 band but did not know.
Here is a shot of the sub


and the fronts

 

I had to read about doing this several times before I got any of it at all. If you are serious about doing it I'll help you as much as I can.

check out some of these posts - there are a few really good ones in there that if you read a few times makes more sense. I was going to point you to a couple of specific ones in there but if you have time read the relevant ones to get some other opinions and see what other people have done in comparison to going all out. I don't want to brainwash you
https://my350z.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1930493

 

open and closed cell foams take care of different range of noise. They work together.

Maybe this will help. Go to www.mcmaster.com
then go to catalog page 3298 ( or fill in the words sound proofing in the search and click find and it should come up on page 3298) and you should see an explanation on noise control and sound insulation with some illustrations on how noise is absorbed and reflected. The web page won't paste here directly since it is a live catalog on their site. You are creating an absorber/barrier combination with the jute(open cell) and neoprene(closed cell). The liquid or dynomat is a damper.

Note that if you search some car audio manufacturer sites that sell very expensive stuff that you will find pre-made materials that have eveything glued together for you or even some stuff that has a layer of lead in the middle. This stuff is HEAVY and EXPENSIVE. Neither of which I think any of you want. Like 1lb. per square foot and $3+ a sq. foot. What I did from the advice of a couple of people is did something almost identical and concentrated on keeping cost to a minimum and weight to a minimum but still be very effective.

 

bjr,
Thanks you have been the most helpful in this subject! I'm going to start building my system before the winter comes, and that means in addition to gathering all the parts I want for the system, I now have another thing to learn (to learn how to take chairs, carpeting, panels apart) If you don't mind, I might bug you more on that subject later. I'm still searching for a suitable Amplifier for now and I will post a new thread asking for some opinions. Thanks bjr.

Joe

 

Good luck and be sure to get back to me here - I'll be happy to help anyway I can. I can provide details that should be helpful but is just too involved to type all here right now if nobody is interested It sounds like a few of you are though and I hope I can help you when the time comes. The panels are pretty easy if you are patient. Seats and carpet are even easier, especially if you don't have all the extra air bags to worry about.

 

well you all might throw up the b/s flag on this one but i am actually dating a girl and her dad is the one who invented dynamat...so if you all have ANY questions at all about it then just ask...im at the warehouse all the time and am around all of the products

 

Looks like they've added a few products to their lineu since last I checked. Dynaliner now comes in defferent widths and is self adhesive? I wish it was back when I was installing it. Also the Dynapad product looks interesting. Expensive..but interesting

 

yea they just released a lot of new products..they are actually working on some sound deadening material for home theater systems...its some pretty cool stuff.

 

bjr,
Did you built that enclosure next to the spare tire yourself? is it made out of 3/4 MDF? 10" or 12"? How is it working out for you? It didn't catch my eyes till today because I'm debating whether to get something like the ZEnclosure or stealthy like yours....again, I'm not big in SPL so one sub I think is plenty power for me. Looking very smart by the way.