Yep, sure did! It's 10" and the top is 3/4" MDF and the rest is fiberglass molded to the trunk floor and walls. It took me forever to figure out how to do it (much longer than how to sound deaden). I can tell you how to do that too It's pretty involved but if you're handy you can do it. I love having my whole trunk!!

 

From my limited experiences in this sort of things, I'm not as handy as I like to be, however, if you don't mind putting a write up about it I think it would be very helpful to determine if this is a project I can take on with limited resource and tools I have. However, I'm always willing to learn new things especially ever since I got the Z......I was never like this when I had my Eclipse

 

Well, I found my old web site pretty quick here at home so here is something to hold you over for now. I will explain more if you like next week no problem. We can PM or I can start a new post to help everyone. There is only a couple of posts on this forum that show or explain exactly what to do with a fiberglass project and all of the ones I googled looked different than what I was doing to me. It took me a few months to plan it and figure out what the heck you do. Build time I would estimate at 50 hours at least because the fiberglass laying goes slow and takes time to dry between layers. Of course I got interupted with things at home and work so many times it took me 6 months to get it done! Don't let that stop you though, if you kick butt you could do it in a couple of weeks maybe. I am just warning you not to underestimate the labor involved. This is why I only needed about $100 to build this and people charge $300-$400+ for something similar. I am afriad that I might not be able to explain it all becuase the final fitting got complicated. I don't think I could do it step by step and give exact dimensions. I know at least 2 other members have done this enclosure though and I'm sure you can too if you are patient, have lots of time on you hands, and are a little handy. Plus you have me and I had no-one. Actually the "in car" part of building up the fiberglass can be done in one day. The rest is done outside the car until final fitting takes place so you only need to have your car out of service for the day. Anyway here is a link for you to check out and we can finish this somewhere else and some other time if you are interested. I could still provide a lot of details and will share them and walk you thorough it if needed.
http://home.sprynet.com/~redar/
Did I scare you off yet? BTW when I had my Probe I just yanked out the factory 5 -1/4" "subwoofer" and strapped a Bazooka tube in the trunk in place of it in the "premium" stereo system (translate to a CD player factory EQ and separate sub with a small factory amp hidden in the rear seat panel - oooooohhh boy)and though that was enough work at the time so I hear ya.

 

I've been thinking about sound deadening my trunk and cubby area for a while. I did it to my old car, but the whole thing. It was a pain, since my friend took apart my dash even though we didn't need to. We ended up doing two layers with carpet padding. Anyways I don't really want to take apart this car like my last, so I just want to do the trunk.

Will putting a material like dynomat in the trunk/cubby area reduce my road noise? I just want to get rid of some of the noise in wheel wells. You can here the rain and small rocks hit the insides. Will it be worth my time and money to just do it with a dynomat material? Or do I need to use some foam.

 

If this is not a sticky already, it should be.

Nice work bjr, I like where you put your sub. PERFECT! How much air space do you think you got from that enclosure?

 

There is a lot of noise back there. Definately use the foams. Just do the trunk right and it will be quiet back there. However, you will then realize that the rest of the car is almost that noisy. It's like the trunk is so noisy it's the dominant area and once it is quiet you will notice noise coming from the front of the car.
At least it is a great place to start if you have a sub back there. I actually started there to convince myself to buy more material and do the rest of the car. My advice would be to do the whole car if you can but definately start with the trunk and see what you think. Put in as much deadener and foams as you can everywhere!

 

About 0.6 cub.ft. ...
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/145497-need-advice-finishing-my-sub-box.html

 

GREAT JOB!!!
I was thinking of doing the same but didn't know where to start. oh well.. good post!!
I have HKS Ti with Random Technology cats and soometimes, exhaust sound is just too much when I just want to chill and listen to quiet music on highways.. toooo much noise from the trunkkkkk...
I'll do it when I change my HU and front speakers.
again..

 

Hey bjr,

I haven't started with my sound deadning project yet since I asked you bunch of questions in September, I'm waiting until I can move into a condo with a garage to work with, much easier than working on my landlord's drive way.

Anyway, I got the foam for the hood from exciters, I'm most likely getting e-dead v1 when time comes. Haven't found the neoprene as thin as yours.

Great write-up!

I.F.

 

I'd recommend the Vibramat as a fine acoustic foam from Exciters, if they still sell it. It's a bit thick and $$ though. Sticks really well and has a combo of open/closed cell construction.

1/8" Neoprene is what I went with mostly, but it is so thin that multiple layers will be needed. Best bet is 1/4" generic Neoprene from Ebay.

 

Hey bjr,

Great post that became a great thread. Good job man. Thanks for sharing the info.

--Spike

 

I know this is not the marketplace, but I just finished my sound deadening/system install and have a few sheets of 1/8" neoprene foam left over. Approx. 15 Sq ft per sheet. $20 a sheet + shipping. If you want a sample, PM me your address and I'll drop a piece in the mail. It worked great for me, 1 layer in the trunk and cubby's and 2 layers in the floorpan. I can barely hear my stock exhaust now.

 

I'm really interested in this topic as well, and have been doing a bit of research for sound blocking for building a home theater as well. Here's a product that's well regarded in the Home Theater industry to be used to bond 2 layers of drywall together to reduce the travelling of vibration to other areas of the house. It's very sticky and I'm pretty sure that it can also be used to replace the liquid deadener that you guys are talking about, and can also be used as an adhesive to go between metal and any kind of foam or neoprene that you want to use....
Let me know what you guys think of the specs, if you guys approve of it, I might just order a gallon to use as the liquid deadener.
http://www.greengluecompany.com/gree...pplication.php

I'm comparing the price per quantity between this green glue and liquid deadener, but clicked on the link for liquid deadener in the first page and the link no longer works. Can someone else let me know where else I can get the liquid deadener from online?

I've ordered some stuff from this site as well, when I was building a hush box for my home theater projector, check it out, I've noticed that they have some foam, dampening stuff that you could possibly use for cars as well.

www.partsexpress.com

 

I can't see any evidence that you would want to use the Green GLue in any fashion other than what it was designed for - decoupling drywall. Maybe I missed something there but it was designed for one application. Did you ever get a price? I'd bet it is more expensive than eDead or Spectrum Sludge. If the Green Glue could be used effectively in automotive they would be pointing it out on their website.
Parts Express is a good general place to buy all kinds of audio supplies but is not always the cheapest. There will be better places to get what you need.

 

Is this the one you were trying to get to? I got a lot of stuff here...

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php