re: "proper" grounding.... True -or-False ????
03-11-2003, 01:49 PM
#1
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re: "proper" grounding.... True -or-False ????
How many of you have heard this one before let alone have done it? Personally it makes sense, but I just havent heard it before. I was reading up on proper grounding precautions since its such a key factor in your system and I came across this on a little page that someone did on their own.
"For systems that either involve three (3) or more amplifiers or more than three-hundred (300) "used" watts run a ground cable directly from the negative terminal of the battery to a distribution block instead of grounding to the vehicles chassis!"
"For systems that either involve three (3) or more amplifiers or more than three-hundred (300) "used" watts run a ground cable directly from the negative terminal of the battery to a distribution block instead of grounding to the vehicles chassis!"
03-11-2003, 01:55 PM
#2
sounds wise, Ill have to keep that in mind and be sure to ground to the battery. essentially grounding to the frame is using the frame as a wire, which is connected to the battery(those with grounding kit would be familiar with that) but 300watts is alot of power to send through the not-so-conductive chassis...
03-12-2003, 03:35 AM
#3
This is debateable...
The ground on your battery is connected to the frame or chassis of the vehicle, so essentially, the entire chassis is a ground return. Now, it's safe to say that all ground points, or connections are not created equal, this is ALWAYS true. As for running a wire to the battery for ground, I don't agree. As long as your carefully choose your ground point, you will safely eliminate grounding problems and related noise issues...
I do think that your grounding point should be chosen wisely...in other words, find a location where there is some thick/solid metal, not a thin piece of flabby sheet metal. This location should be stripped of paint, so there is nothing adding unwanted resisitance through this connection. Take a good sized screw or bolt and use tightly crimped ring terminals that are tightly screwed, or bolted down. Also try to pick a location that provides the least amount of distance to the battery.
Following these above steps has always provided a good ground for me, with no system noise. I don't feel that running a wire to the battery is necessary at all...
The ground on your battery is connected to the frame or chassis of the vehicle, so essentially, the entire chassis is a ground return. Now, it's safe to say that all ground points, or connections are not created equal, this is ALWAYS true. As for running a wire to the battery for ground, I don't agree. As long as your carefully choose your ground point, you will safely eliminate grounding problems and related noise issues...
I do think that your grounding point should be chosen wisely...in other words, find a location where there is some thick/solid metal, not a thin piece of flabby sheet metal. This location should be stripped of paint, so there is nothing adding unwanted resisitance through this connection. Take a good sized screw or bolt and use tightly crimped ring terminals that are tightly screwed, or bolted down. Also try to pick a location that provides the least amount of distance to the battery.
Following these above steps has always provided a good ground for me, with no system noise. I don't feel that running a wire to the battery is necessary at all...
03-12-2003, 04:08 AM
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onecoolee - as I am planning on mounting my amps in a similiar fashion as you, where would you say the best grounding area is?
One other thing, I have heard that your ground wire guage needs to match the power wire guage. Any merrit to this?
I am planning on running a 4 guage wire from the battery to my capacitor, then to a distribution block - from there to the amps, I was planning on 8 guage. So if the above is recommended, should I ground with 8 guage or 4 guage?
One other thing, I have heard that your ground wire guage needs to match the power wire guage. Any merrit to this?
I am planning on running a 4 guage wire from the battery to my capacitor, then to a distribution block - from there to the amps, I was planning on 8 guage. So if the above is recommended, should I ground with 8 guage or 4 guage?
03-12-2003, 04:56 AM
#5
tonkadog...
Here are the answers to your questions. These are my opinions...
Q. where would you say the best grounding area is?
A. Do not use the area that composes the rear wall of the Z, instead, tap into the side wall which is welded solidly to the main chassis, or the floor of the storage areas, which are part of the main chassis. If you use the floor of the stoarage areas, be sure not to drill into something below the car, and use some silcone on top of the ground connection to prevent it form loosening, or rusting. Make sure you scrape the paint off and sand the location good before you tighten the screw.
Q. One other thing, I have heard that your ground wire guage needs to match the power wire guage. Any merrit to this?
A. Yes, this is true. Your ground lead should be the same size as your positive lead, if not the same a little larger. This is always true. If you look at a lot of DC grounds in vehicles you will find a thick braided wire, that serves as a main ground conenction for several grounds in the same harness. The ground wire gauge is very crucial.
Q. I am planning on running a 4 guage wire from the battery to my capacitor, then to a distribution block - from there to the amps, I was planning on 8 guage. So if the above is recommended, should I ground with 8 guage or 4 guage?
A. This capacitor is essentially a 2nd battery, and you should use the same size wire for it. Its ok, to run the power from the battery to the positive side of the cap, but there's no need to run the ground from the cap to the battery, you can use the chassis as a ground for it, just follow the same principles as I have mentioned already. You can use 8 gauge wires from the dist. block to your amps, as long as the runs are short, and the amps are not drawing too much current, and are not trying to drive ultra low impedances (.5-1 ohms).
I hope this helps you resolve your wiring issues...
Here are the answers to your questions. These are my opinions...
Q. where would you say the best grounding area is?
A. Do not use the area that composes the rear wall of the Z, instead, tap into the side wall which is welded solidly to the main chassis, or the floor of the storage areas, which are part of the main chassis. If you use the floor of the stoarage areas, be sure not to drill into something below the car, and use some silcone on top of the ground connection to prevent it form loosening, or rusting. Make sure you scrape the paint off and sand the location good before you tighten the screw.
Q. One other thing, I have heard that your ground wire guage needs to match the power wire guage. Any merrit to this?
A. Yes, this is true. Your ground lead should be the same size as your positive lead, if not the same a little larger. This is always true. If you look at a lot of DC grounds in vehicles you will find a thick braided wire, that serves as a main ground conenction for several grounds in the same harness. The ground wire gauge is very crucial.
Q. I am planning on running a 4 guage wire from the battery to my capacitor, then to a distribution block - from there to the amps, I was planning on 8 guage. So if the above is recommended, should I ground with 8 guage or 4 guage?
A. This capacitor is essentially a 2nd battery, and you should use the same size wire for it. Its ok, to run the power from the battery to the positive side of the cap, but there's no need to run the ground from the cap to the battery, you can use the chassis as a ground for it, just follow the same principles as I have mentioned already. You can use 8 gauge wires from the dist. block to your amps, as long as the runs are short, and the amps are not drawing too much current, and are not trying to drive ultra low impedances (.5-1 ohms).
I hope this helps you resolve your wiring issues...
03-12-2003, 07:14 AM
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I always try to keep my ground as short as possible. I never use a screw, I always use a bolt w/ the paint sanded, and a star washer. I also silicone my grounds as mentioned earlier. On the ground being the same size as the power you are correct. If you use 1/0 ga for +12v, and a 8ga for ground, You just turned your 1/0ga into 8ga. You can only pull as much power as you can put out. Think of electricity as water, and your wire as pipe. If you had a 4in pipe connected to a 2in pipe, and a 4in pipe connected to a 4in pipe which one do you think is going to flow more water (electricity)? Its also a great idea to run a ground with your remote turn on from the radio, and ground your amps, caps radio, all at the same point. I would also boot the distribution block, and use your caps post as your distribution. Save money on the distribution block. Plus one less connection to worry about = more power, and more reliability. Hope this helps.
03-12-2003, 07:49 AM
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One thing to keep in mind: the negative terminal in a car is nothing like the 'ground' in household electrical wiring. Simple physics will tell you that DC current flows from the negative post to the positive. This is why the negative "ground" is so important, and you should always use the same gauge wires for both posite/negative.
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