Stupid Subwoofer question
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: JC in Atlanta Georgia
I'm not an electrical or sound engineer, and I don't trust the folks at most of these audio stores, so here is my question:
What is the difference between an audio system that has an amp that will produce 250 watts RMS at 4 Ohms connected to a 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at the same 250 RMS << compared >> to an amp that is rated at 500 watts RMS at 4 Ohms connected to a 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at the same 500 watts RMS.
Is it simply LOUDER ?
Does it hit harder?
Must I play the 500 Watt setup at louder volumes?
I'm assuming the 500 watts setup is always better?
I know these are probably stupid questions to many of you, but there are so many variables in selecting amps and subwoofers I thought I'd ask.
Thanks.
What is the difference between an audio system that has an amp that will produce 250 watts RMS at 4 Ohms connected to a 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at the same 250 RMS << compared >> to an amp that is rated at 500 watts RMS at 4 Ohms connected to a 4 Ohm subwoofer rated at the same 500 watts RMS.
Is it simply LOUDER ?
Does it hit harder?
Must I play the 500 Watt setup at louder volumes?
I'm assuming the 500 watts setup is always better?
I know these are probably stupid questions to many of you, but there are so many variables in selecting amps and subwoofers I thought I'd ask.
Thanks.
The ones with more power will definately get louder. The ones with more power will also move alot more air, getting deeper and tighter bass. If you go to any audio shop and listen to a cheap $60 woofer at high volumes and then move over to say a Kicker L7 or JL W7. You will notice that it can get alot louder without distorting or crackling. The bass will also sound better. Wont sound sloppy and annoying.
It depends on the sensitivity of the speaker you are driving (rated in dB).
If you have a two speakers with all "parameters" equal aside from the sensitivity and power rating.
Example:
500W speaker w/ 85dB sensitivity
250W speaker w/ 88dB sensitivity
At full power levels they are essentially equal, so you gain nothing by going to the higher power rated/less sensitive speaker.
The only thing the power rating means it that the speaker has been engineered/tested to perform reliably at those power levels.
So .. the ones with more power will not get louder .. they are only likely to last longer w/ abuse.
If you have a two speakers with all "parameters" equal aside from the sensitivity and power rating.
Example:
500W speaker w/ 85dB sensitivity
250W speaker w/ 88dB sensitivity
At full power levels they are essentially equal, so you gain nothing by going to the higher power rated/less sensitive speaker.
The only thing the power rating means it that the speaker has been engineered/tested to perform reliably at those power levels.
So .. the ones with more power will not get louder .. they are only likely to last longer w/ abuse.
Jim has it right above.
All things being equal - the same speaker box, speaker, and car ...
In order to increase the sound level by 3 dB you need to double the wattage output of the amplifier. 3 dB is about the smallest amount of sound increase that you can actually notice - many home stereo systems have "click" volume controls with 3 dB clicks between each notch. As Jim pointed out a speaker with 3 dB more sensitivity is going to accomplish the same thing - and probably a whole lot cheaper than paying for 3 dB more amplifier.
"Hit Harder" to me is transient response which as to do with the damping factor of the amplifier and the speakers. Tight bass response was a primary goal of my home stereo system so I went with front speakers with twin 8" mid-woofers vice the more common 10" or larger speakers. For my sub-woofer I chose a 12" speaker well known for it's abilities to stike low, clean, and accurate.
There are guys with tube amplifiers putting out 3 watts and some with all the way up to 12 watts that use very efficient speakers. These little systems really can rock producing home theater sound levels.
All things being equal - the same speaker box, speaker, and car ...
In order to increase the sound level by 3 dB you need to double the wattage output of the amplifier. 3 dB is about the smallest amount of sound increase that you can actually notice - many home stereo systems have "click" volume controls with 3 dB clicks between each notch. As Jim pointed out a speaker with 3 dB more sensitivity is going to accomplish the same thing - and probably a whole lot cheaper than paying for 3 dB more amplifier.
"Hit Harder" to me is transient response which as to do with the damping factor of the amplifier and the speakers. Tight bass response was a primary goal of my home stereo system so I went with front speakers with twin 8" mid-woofers vice the more common 10" or larger speakers. For my sub-woofer I chose a 12" speaker well known for it's abilities to stike low, clean, and accurate.
There are guys with tube amplifiers putting out 3 watts and some with all the way up to 12 watts that use very efficient speakers. These little systems really can rock producing home theater sound levels.
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