ooohhh

Do most of you buy the install kits or do you simply buy each of the components seperately?

I have looked at several 4 gauge kits and they range from $70-100. WHen I add up the components seperately they only add up to only $30-35.

Am I missing something? I made sure I matched up the components well and its still came out lower.

Example: I priced a 4 gauge, 50 amp fuse holder. RF, Street and Light wanted $12. The same thing from an electronics store was $3.50. Looked exactly the same and had the same specs. And the same is true for the 4 guage wire. .90 per ft. Can't see a reason to buy the amp kits.

Thoughts!!!!!!!!!!

LS350Z

I never buy amp kits, I've always bought everything seperately. I do this mainly because I like to have way more then enough wire then just barely enough like in the amp kits. I also like to have about twice as many connectors as well.

ooohhh

Thanks LS350Z

Is there anything I need to keep in mind? Like ... is a aug 50 amp fuse holder a aug 50 amp fuse holder? I mean is there a big difference between a RF fuse holder and a no name? And lastly,

When I tap into the signal using a line out converter can I tap into the line going to the stock sub. This would make my run a lot shorter. And what type of RCA cable do you use from the line out to the amp?

Thanks

LS350Z

I'm kind of going to answer your questions in backwards order.

First off, there's no reason to buy the absolute best of anything unless you are competiting. Likewise, even trying to do stuff cheap don't ever use the lowest of the low stuff. I personally buy Stinger wiring for all my car stereo stuff. It's of the best quality, it's cheap (compared to some other brands), and it has great looks (although in my Z you can't see any of it - lol). Go to www.sounddomain.com for Stinger wires at great prices.

As far as being a big difference between brands, not really. Only will you see a big difference in the super cheap stuff and the super expensive stuff, everything else isn't much different. Like I said above, I've been using Stinger wires for a while now and they have hte same quality and features as stuff 10x their price. I know people who compete with Stinger as well in SPL world (one is hitting 165+db this year).

I've never used signal converters before so I'm not to familar with the best way to set them up. I'd imagine the closer to the signal generator (The HU) the better.

Finally, an RCA cable is an RCA cable, get something decent and go with it. I used the Stinger Bullit series 17' RCAs in my 350Z (and my 95 Honda as well) and I think they run $26 a set at sounddomain.com. Different series RCAs might be cheaper or more expensive.

nwind21

Just on a side note... Stinger RCA cables have shielding + arrows on the RCA cable indicating signal direction on the insulation. So if you install the cables, be sure to watch which way the arrows go.

I would pick up your fuse holders and stuff from sounddomain as Ls350Z suggests. You should pick up a shorter piece of 4-gauge of an alternate color for your ground and a 4-gauge eyelet to attach to your car's frame. Wiring wise it will keep your head straight.

Are you doing the install yourself? If so... keep in mind the amp fuse needs to be as close to the battery as possible. Mine were within a couple inches from the terminal. The ground connection should be within 3 ft. of the amp. So you'll need to either find or drill a grounding point of your amp. Finally, the RCA cables and power lines should run on opposite sides of the car... or as far away from each other as possible.

Good luck!