Sound Blocking Materials
04-03-2007, 06:19 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bronx N.Y.
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sound Blocking Materials
I've been Debating whether or not to use Raamat (sound dampening material) on my car for a while, and I finally just decided to do it, because it would only add an extra 25 pounds to my vehicle. With that said I just went outside and started to install the material.
I used an Exacto knife for the install, because it allowed me to get the cuts perfectly. This stuff (butyl based) is super sticky, and can get messy at times just like dynamat, but it痴 lighter, and bonds better IMO. Here are some pictures of the final product after attaching the Ensolite (closed cell foam) over the Raamat. It was super easy, and I used camie 313 upholstery spray glue to get the job done. It痴 very simple, but just requires a lot of patience. As you can see I took care in getting this door to be near perfect.
I also decided to add some Raamat to my actual fiberglass sub box (still building it) in hopes that it will stop any rattling (if there is any) of the fiberglass itself. (I値l post pics of that later, because I知 still not finished doing the box.
I知 eager to see how the system will sound since I知 basically building everything myself. I値l keep you all posted as I move along.
I used an Exacto knife for the install, because it allowed me to get the cuts perfectly. This stuff (butyl based) is super sticky, and can get messy at times just like dynamat, but it痴 lighter, and bonds better IMO. Here are some pictures of the final product after attaching the Ensolite (closed cell foam) over the Raamat. It was super easy, and I used camie 313 upholstery spray glue to get the job done. It痴 very simple, but just requires a lot of patience. As you can see I took care in getting this door to be near perfect.
I also decided to add some Raamat to my actual fiberglass sub box (still building it) in hopes that it will stop any rattling (if there is any) of the fiberglass itself. (I値l post pics of that later, because I知 still not finished doing the box.
I知 eager to see how the system will sound since I知 basically building everything myself. I値l keep you all posted as I move along.
04-03-2007, 06:21 AM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bronx N.Y.
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
in the second picture you can see the perfect seal that the raamat and Ensolite make when attached to the door. It was great to see everything finally come together....the next step is to do the floor panels, and then upholster the entire interior.
04-03-2007, 06:41 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just finished a complete tear-out and sound reduction job on the Z.
I used a method simialar to DanniNichols, and a few others on the board.
First, a layer (or more) of Raammat over most of the floor and cubby areas, also the rear and both doors.
Then a layer of open cell foam (3/8's inch) over the floor, two layers in the cubby area, and a layer in the rear. The doors did not get this as it is moisture sensitive (can mold).
Over all of that a layer of ensolite on the floors, cubby and rear. I used two layers of ensolite in the doors.
The results are unbelievable. It is actually quiter than my GF's brand new Honda Accord. I can talk on the cell phone easily at highway speeds, including on concrete roads with grooves.
I would recommend that you seriously consider the open cell foam on the floors and cubby as that will do the best job at reducing noise whiel the ensolite does a great job at blocking...
I used a method simialar to DanniNichols, and a few others on the board.
First, a layer (or more) of Raammat over most of the floor and cubby areas, also the rear and both doors.
Then a layer of open cell foam (3/8's inch) over the floor, two layers in the cubby area, and a layer in the rear. The doors did not get this as it is moisture sensitive (can mold).
Over all of that a layer of ensolite on the floors, cubby and rear. I used two layers of ensolite in the doors.
The results are unbelievable. It is actually quiter than my GF's brand new Honda Accord. I can talk on the cell phone easily at highway speeds, including on concrete roads with grooves.
I would recommend that you seriously consider the open cell foam on the floors and cubby as that will do the best job at reducing noise whiel the ensolite does a great job at blocking...
04-03-2007, 07:21 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought carpet underlayment pad, which is foam ( basically the stuff you put underneath carpet at home). You can also get fiberous material intended for automobiles (I'm sure you've seen this grey with different colored fibers). The fiberous material can be picked up on-line through auto restoration sites, and the carpet underlayment I bought at Menards (Like a Home Depot, Lowes).
I used about 11 sq yards of it.
Two things to consider: The cost of the foam type is much less (I spent about $35 on it), compared to at least double that for auto specific.
The auto specific is much easier to work with, it bends folds etc... where the foam is more ridgid. Also, the foam is susceptible to moisture issues, since I used Ensolite over it, and sealed the edges with Duct tape, I'm not concerned about the moisture, but be mindful if you take your car out in the winter... Also, don't use it in the doors (looks like you already finished them anyway)
I saw you glued the ensolite down, I actually opted to duct tape that as well in case I ever needed to get it out (for example over the fuel pump in the cubby etc...)
Good luck, and once you're finished report back on your expectations and whether or not they were met.
I used about 11 sq yards of it.
Two things to consider: The cost of the foam type is much less (I spent about $35 on it), compared to at least double that for auto specific.
The auto specific is much easier to work with, it bends folds etc... where the foam is more ridgid. Also, the foam is susceptible to moisture issues, since I used Ensolite over it, and sealed the edges with Duct tape, I'm not concerned about the moisture, but be mindful if you take your car out in the winter... Also, don't use it in the doors (looks like you already finished them anyway)
I saw you glued the ensolite down, I actually opted to duct tape that as well in case I ever needed to get it out (for example over the fuel pump in the cubby etc...)
Good luck, and once you're finished report back on your expectations and whether or not they were met.
04-03-2007, 07:34 AM
#6
i like raamat sound dampening a lot, but i am not a fan of their ensolite, too muh of a pain to do, i prefer using edead V4, whcih is in itself a stickybacked foam thicker thant he ensolite...much easier to install 
but cudos for your patiences, it looks great!
but cudos for your patiences, it looks great!
04-03-2007, 08:01 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bronx N.Y.
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks...ummm is the e dead pretty expensive?...because it sounds like it's easier to apply, and I want to use something that's fairly easy for the floor...I'm almost done with the Raamat anyway...I just don't know what to do with the floors that's all..it seems as if this would be where alot of road noise is coming from.
and to seal some of the edges...using aluminum foil taip is the best, but it's super expensive....that's what I use on some corners...
and to seal some of the edges...using aluminum foil taip is the best, but it's super expensive....that's what I use on some corners...
Trending Topics
04-03-2007, 08:07 AM
#8
its chepaer than raammat on the sound deadening part, not sure on the ensolite thing, but it is MUCh thicker than ensolite
www.edesignaudio.com edead v.4 is the name
b
on the sound deadening part, not sure on the ensolite thing, but it is MUCh thicker than ensolite www.edesignaudio.com edead v.4 is the name
b
04-04-2007, 10:51 AM
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Virginia
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
its chepaer than raammat on the sound deadening part, not sure on the ensolite thing, but it is MUCh thicker than ensolite
www.edesignaudio.com edead v.4 is the name
b
on the sound deadening part, not sure on the ensolite thing, but it is MUCh thicker than ensolite www.edesignaudio.com edead v.4 is the name
b
I'm guessing this process is similar to what the original poster did. I was just curious if adding a second layer of the foam material was worth it?
04-11-2007, 08:15 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Newton, IA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hokie2000
Not to hi-jack this thread... But I'm the process of ordering the edead material for my doors and was wondering if the adding the edead v.4 (Teklite) on top of the edead V1SE would make a considerable difference in dampening the noise from the doors?
I'm guessing this process is similar to what the original poster did. I was just curious if adding a second layer of the foam material was worth it?
I'm guessing this process is similar to what the original poster did. I was just curious if adding a second layer of the foam material was worth it?
Mass loaders typically work from 250hz and down.
The v4 is 1/4" closed cell adhesive backed and acts like an acoustic sponge, it absorbs higher frequencies, from 250hz and up.
No advantage of doubling up the v4, the law of diminishing return kicks in after 1/4"
04-11-2007, 10:25 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Chugg
also not to hijack, but, if i were putting all new stereo stuff in the car already would it be a good idea to sound dampen the whole car? or the doors or just the sub box? how much does it normally cost, big question is - is it really worth it?
I just got this, it tested better than all others, I will put it in when the weather looks like it will be nice for 2 days in a row.
Damplifier ProT Shop Pack 279.36
04-11-2007, 11:14 AM
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Virginia
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by alexlindeman
The SE is a mass loader, it reduces rattle and vibrations.
Mass loaders typically work from 250hz and down.
The v4 is 1/4" closed cell adhesive backed and acts like an acoustic sponge, it absorbs higher frequencies, from 250hz and up.
No advantage of doubling up the v4, the law of diminishing return kicks in after 1/4"
Mass loaders typically work from 250hz and down.
The v4 is 1/4" closed cell adhesive backed and acts like an acoustic sponge, it absorbs higher frequencies, from 250hz and up.
No advantage of doubling up the v4, the law of diminishing return kicks in after 1/4"
04-11-2007, 11:30 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bronx N.Y.
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sounds right to me...Maybe 16 PSI and Alex can chime in...they have been guiding me through everything.
but I wanted to ask you guys why people put polyfill or whatever that $hit is inside speakerboxes. What exactly does it do, and can i benefit from it?
but I wanted to ask you guys why people put polyfill or whatever that $hit is inside speakerboxes. What exactly does it do, and can i benefit from it?
04-11-2007, 12:43 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Newton, IA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To answer the first question.
That is correct.
1-2 layers of SE and then 1 layer of V4.
As for polyfil.
Some people use it to kill standing waves in an enclosure. Others use it when the enclosure volume is a little on the small side.
It makes the enclosure appear larger than it actually is.
Alex
That is correct.
1-2 layers of SE and then 1 layer of V4.
As for polyfil.
Some people use it to kill standing waves in an enclosure. Others use it when the enclosure volume is a little on the small side.
It makes the enclosure appear larger than it actually is.
Alex