project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

Had a Question about wiring on an amp. Not very versed on car audio, but I know enough about it to install myself.

1. Installed new 10" with New amp and ran all the wires and adapters accordingly with the stock HU.

2. Instead of Bass coming out of the Sub, it's playing Music.. Whats the deal? Is it just a wiring issue? Also to hear even the music the amp freq and gain have to be almost turned all the way up. Ofcourse I had to use an RCA hi/low off the rear speakers for the amp signal.

Anybody have any ideas?? Please dont say wiring thats pretty obvious what most likely the problem is.

Thanks.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

I think you need to tune your amp to only play the lower frequencies try setting it to play around 50-80hz. It seems like you said you installed a line out converter... if you didn't you need to.

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

Does the amp have a low pass filter? You need some type of crossover to filter out anything above 50 or 80 hz. Right now your sending a full signal to the sub. Careful with that gain on the amp, its not a volume control.

bdahern

iTrader: (9)

What they said - if you already have a LOC (line out conveter) tapped into the rear speakers and RCAs run to the Amp, you need a crossover so only the low frequencies are hitting the sub.

I also tapped into the rear speakers and ran them to a Dave Navone LOC, then to a RF amp with the xover set (I think) at 80hz (I haven't looked at it lately) or thereabouts, and it works great.

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

The amp has a built in crossover and i set it to 80hz. The amp is a RF punch nothing to fancy. Its got the switch that plays hi/mid/low its set to low now. Its hooked up right now its just not putting out any power. I checked the ground and thats fine, so is the main power line. Like i said earlier in order to get any output i have to pretty much have to use the gain at max. Whats the deal?

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

Is the amp bridged? give us some specific model numbers on the sub and amp plz

Also, What guage is your power wire. Is the power wire running off the battery?

sorry for so many questions but we need details so we can help

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

Yes the amp is bridged. The main power line is 4 gauge and is running off the battery. No prob on the questions this is just becoming a pain in my *** and I'm tempted to take it to a shop but hate it when other people touch my car.

Specs:
amp- Rockford / Punch model: p250.2

FROM SITE:

Number of Channels 2
Rated Power
continuous power 60W x 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS
125W x 2 @ 2-Ohms RMS
250W x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS
Total Power
total sum of 'rated power' 250 Watts
Bridgeable Yes
Crossover Controls High-Pass (HP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Tone Controls Bass: 0dB to +18dB @ 45Hz
Signal Input Low level: 1 RCA pair
Signal Output Low level: 1 RCA pair
Power Input Connector Block
Power Wire Gauge 4 AWG
Speaker Output Connector Screw terminal barrier strip
Speaker Wire Gauge 8 AWG to 18 AWG
Heat Sink Type Cast aluminum
Cooling Convection
Remote Controls Punch Bass EQ (included with cable)
Visual Indicators Power On
Signal Level
Thermal Status
Speaker Protection
Circuit Topology Class Class A/B
Frequency Response 20Hz to 20kHz +/- 0.5 dB
Shipping Weight 11.00 Lbs.
(4.9 Kg.)
Dimensions (HxWxL) 2.1 x 11 x 11.7 (in)
5.3 x 27.9 x 29.7 (cm)


Sub - Kenwood 10" model kfc-w2510
25 cm Component Subwoofer

from site:

250 mm Pearl Mica Injection P.P. Cone Woofer / “Typhoon” Shape Rigid Diaphragm / Dual Magnet Drive / High Roll Surround / Easy SB terminal / Aluminum Model Name Plate for Back Side Installation / Sealed or Ported Type Installation Capability
Peak Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 W
Maximum Input Power . . . . . . . . . . . 350 W
Rated Input Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 W
Sensitivity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 dB
Voice coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Ohm
Frequency response . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 ~ 800 Hz
Mounting depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 mm
Size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 x 277 x 138 mm
Magnet weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.400 gr
Net weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.850 gr
Enclosure size sealed / ported . . . . . . . . 22,6 l / 28,3 l
Port size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ř 76 mm x 178 mm

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

bump! anybody?

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

I would say you still need the LOC from walmart for cheapo <20$ by scosche. Wire it up then try it.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=1863065

bdahern

iTrader: (9)

Yup - you need to convert the stereo signal to a preamp signal with a LOC. Tap the rear speakers and run the line to the LOC, then run RCAs to the amp. I did it to a Fosgate amp myself, and it works great.

I got mine from Dave Navone engineering:

http://www.autosound2000.com/

You can pick one up at any auto sound shop, though.

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

Wait, I dont see speaker level inputs on that amp. Are you using a converter? If so most converters also have sensitivity adjustments on them. Yours could be turned down all the way, forcing you to turn up the gain on the amp.

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

How about an update?

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the illistration. I have a converter from the speakers to RCA's already. Someone at a shop said it was a hi/low converter? Is that correct?

(Looking from the Right to Left) I have the Battery, Ground, and Remote, Then the RCA's from the converter (from the rear speakers), The Freq is set at 80hz, with the crossover set to LP, then the sub is bridged.

My converter isn't adjustable. It only has 2 RCA outs on oneside, on the other it 6 wires (2 for L speaker, 2 for R speaker, & 2 grounds) the instructions said only ground if no sound is coming out. Now sound is coming out so they're not wired as of now. I even tried to ground them just for the hell of it and no change. Is it supposed to be adjustable?

For the Inputs on the RCA's for the Amp ( if your looking at the top) the left says "input" and the right says "pass-thru" I believe. That should be going into the "Input" correct?

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

Yes
Well as long as you are using the Left positive and the Right negative speaker connections on the amp to your sub, then you are running the amp bridged. If your using the left + - and the right + -, your running the amp in stereo

Some are and some are not, you just got one that is not if you dont see any adjustment dials on it
Yes if you had another amplifier in the system you could plug it into the pass through. The input RCA's on the amp should be connected to the high/low converter.

Is your sub in an enclosure or did you install it where the stock bose sub should be?

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Ichigo] Yes Well as long as you are using the Left positive and the Right negative speaker connections on the amp to your sub, then you are running the amp bridged. If your using the left + - and the right + -, your running the amp in stereo [QUOTE]

Could this be a if not "the" problem?

Yes the Sub is in the stock location. I haven't boxed the inside or used sound deadening to seal it up yet, just trying to get it to work first.

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

[quote=project_racer98][quote=Ichigo] Yes Well as long as you are using the Left positive and the Right negative speaker connections on the amp to your sub, then you are running the amp bridged. If your using the left + - and the right + -, your running the amp in stereo It will definatly affect how it sounds if your running the amp in stereo. Bridging the amp would give you better results.
BUT
You HAVE to put that sub in an enclosure. I think thats the problem. The Bose sub sounds like junk because there is no enclosure. There are boxes that you can insert into that cavity, but unless you put that sub into some kind of enclosure, you will always be disapointed with the performance

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

I know that needs to be done, still as of now the bose sounds way better, and I still havent figured out why?

Ichigo

iTrader: (6)

This thread should help:
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/36147-can-you-install-a-10-sub-behind-driver-w-o-a-box.html
All about using the stock location, and people using a free air sub. The sub you purchased is not meant to be used in a free air configuration, the bose is. Thats why the kenwood sub sounds worse than the bose.

project_racer98

iTrader: (1)

I mean it sounds like a speaker. So I guess that would make sense b/c speakers aren't boxed either. I would probably just dynamat it.