Infinus

So I have decided to buy a nice system that I can move over into my Z when I buy it. But I have a few questions for you audio gurus before I proceed.

1. I'm looking at the infinity kappa perfect 12 DVQ, (400 Watt RMS 1600 Peak) any experiences with this sub? how do the infinity perfects compare to say an alpine type R? I like to feel the bass, nice and clean, I mostly listen to rock and electronic type music.

2. The amp I'm looking at is the infinity 1600A (400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms) anyone use this before?

3. I might get two subs, or do you think one is enough? If i get two will the amp I want be able to power two of the subs (both DVC) or will I need two amps? Also at what point do I need a capacitor? Even with my current sub I get a little flicker so I'm thinking I should get one, but if I do what capacity will I need?

4. Also I'm not sure on this but if I do need two amps do i just need a bigger cable from the battery or do I need to run two wires?

5. What type of enclosure works best for rock/techno or does it matter?

Thanks in advance =)

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

1. I have a pair of 10 DVQ's because I didn't want to give up my spare tire or most of my trunk. The 10 DVQ is the biggest subwoofer that will fit into a Zenclosure - you do have to shave about 1/4" off a small spot in the back wall to fit the subwoofer in but it does just barely fit. The variable Q allows you to tune the woofer to match the cabinet which is really nice. Any other woofer you have to tune the cabinet to match the woofer. I was driven to the Zenclosure because of it's good fit and finish, it's stealth-ness, and it's ability to be pulled out if needed. Making a trip to 'Vegas with the wife means I need that space for the extra bags - I unplug two wires and tug +80 pounds worth of subwoofer box out.

2. I've got a pair of Infinity amps and they're OK. I don't listen to my music above 100-105 dB as I work in industry and get paid good money for what's left of my ears. The amps have never given me any trouble or over heated on me. There is plenty better out there if you're into competition. Once you start those 300 ponies under the hood you're not going to hear the difference between any average or better amplifiers - it's physically impossible to make out the difference with 70-80 dB worth of noise floor.

3. I'm running +1000 watts with good quality 4 gauge wire to my central distribution block and haven't noticed any dimming. Note that I don't listen to my music at dangerous levels. I like the transient response of two smaller subwoofers over the one larger one - live music doesn't have the sort of bass that produced/altered music does. Listening to Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin, or Rush you're not going to get the sort of bass that the artificial extension due to processing puts into rap and hip hop.

4. For two amps you simply need to add the current requirements together and find the gauge of wire to match on page 74 (raceway) of your Ugly's book. As an example 4 gauge cable will hold a conservative 85 amps (1100 watts) worth of power, a 2 gauge cable 115 amps. Stepping up to a higher quality automotive cable will give you another 15 degrees C and about 10-15 more amps. Two good quality 8 gauge copper cables are good for 110 amps, one 4 gauge is good for only 95. Remember that the alternator only puts out so many amps and once the battery is trashed the car is no longer going to run. If you're into that level of pain look at an Optima or multi-battery set-up.

5. For rock I like a ported enclosure but a sealed one with a bit too high of a Qtc works well too. Sealed enclosures will always be the most accurate all things being equal but proper porting will give a 2-4 dB boost at the lowest end which most people enjoy. The number of people with tuned sealed enclosures is low but still lower are properly ported enclosures! Look up the Thiel=Small parameters for your intended subwoofer and then run them though a Qtc calculator (available on the Internet) to see if the speaker motor is a good match to the box ... or just do like most people do ... buy something that's pretty, or the next guy says "hits hard". I know how to run the formulas and have a calibrated lab mic and audio spectrum analyzer and picked a sealed system rather than to go though the port tuning process.

The best thing to do is to come out to a meet and listen to someone's system and compare them back and forth with another's. The test really have to be done side-by-side and even then artificial colorations in the set-up can be temporarily enjoyable ... but grating and wearing in the long term. I've heard systems that were just terrible - 10-15% THD screaming out of the amplifiers as they reach clipping levels ... and the guy sits there smiling not hearing a thing.

TheProfessional

iTrader: (14)

Good response, the only thing I would add is the importance of establishing a good ground.

I have a small amp in the cubby behind the drivers seat and I used a small hole back there to attach the ground. The amp barely pushed my subs, the sound was terrible, then I noticed the amp would barely work one day.

The ground connect had melted because the hold I attached to was painted, and the only direct contact metal to metal was on the interior of the hole where the screw scratched the paint off.

Basically I sanded the large hole for the sub plate and used the OEM bolt to secure the ground. The amp works well and the sound is much better.

Infinus

Thanks for the responses, the owners manual on the sub actually gives me all th e information I need as far as port sizes and calculations so I think I'll go that route if it will give me better sound.

I know about the ground I had the same situation happen to me before, thanks for the heads up though.