Wow I never had this problem before on any other vehicle before. When the music is turned up to a certain level and the amp is drawing more from the battery it makes the lights flicker. Every darn light on the car. Not just the interior lights. I watched the volt meter on the dash and when the music is up it does dip a little.

I did a little search and people were posting that a new alternator was needed or a new battery. The thing is I didn't think I was having this problem. Maybe I just hadn't noticed it but I highly doubt that. Regardless, I'm having the problem now. What is the best thing to do here? If it's to get a new battery or a new alternator, please point me in the right direction to get one. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

my system used to do this, until i bought a batcap which is a battery/capacitor. which i will be selling mine due to surgery. google them they will start you car by themselves they store that much powa but are real small.

 

What size batcap do I need? Does it eliminate all of the flicker? How easy of an install is it? Thanks

 

My lights would dim when the amps hit... So I did the "Big 3" upgrade using 2 awg wire, in addition to leaving the factory wire intact. Totally fixed the problemo. Batt ---> Alt ---> Chassis ---> Batt.
I also threw a 1 farad cap on each amp for good measure.

 

From what I've been hearing, getting my alternator rebuilt is a good idea. Has anyone done this? What about just adding a larger battery? I have heard the yellow top isn't much larger than factory though. Thanks...

 

I havent done the big 3 to my z yet,but did on my prelude. My lights dont dim anymore and it didnt cost too much at all for wiring and 0gauge terminal rings.

 

Explain the "big 3" to me. I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. Do I still need a new battery with this way?

 

You use your current battery unless yours is dead. The only thing you need to buy is 0gauge wire and 0gauge ring terminals.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355

pics seem to be down right now,but basically you're upgrading your grounds and power wire from alternator to battery.

 

This is good information. Now just have to find pictures for the Z. Thanks

 

Not sure if anyones done a writeup for the z but its pretty straightforward. It wouldnt hurt to remove the old cable first and then matchup the length with the new 0 gauge cable and install. The hardest part I would say is routing the alternator power cable.

 

Since every light is connected to the same electrical system, it makes sense they would all be affected by a large change in the system. How many watts are your running?

There are pictures here of people who did the Big 3.

 

I'd love to see these pics..... I just replaced my oem Battery for an Optima Yellow Top and this morning I was beatin my Sub and noticed the lights still flicker.... So I guess the big 3 will be the next step....

 

Seel, How many watts are you running? This will determine which route you should go, so you aren't wasting money on unnecessary upgrades.

The Big3 - increases current flow to/from the battery/chassis/alternator. Makes sure you are getting the most out of your electrical system. Could cost around $60 for wire and terminals.

Upgraded battery - besides most of these being gel cell so they can be mounted in positions other than upright, they also offer benefits of faster discharge/charge rates over standard wet cell batteries. This allows the battery to supply faster/additional current during higher demands such as bass hits; and will recharge faster after such bass hits. Some also offer deep cycle capabilities which means you can drain the cells lower without as much damage to the cell. When the cells in a conventional battery drain too low, they are permanently damaged. Could cost around $130 for new battery, Exide Orbital (my favorite) and Optima are two brands to look at.

Upgraded or high-output alternator - will generate more amps for your electrical system. The more overhead the better. This is usually the most costly option so it should be the last option, unless you KNOW you are running WELL over what the stock alternator can produce. An alternator from a Nissan Qwest with a 3.5L engine (if it's a direct bolt-on, but no one can answer that question) is rated at 130amps opposed to the 350z's 110amps. That 20amps could be all the difference in the world to a moderate system. And it wouldn't cost much since you can buy a rebuilt. I would try it out, but I am not experiencing any troubles with my modest system. Could cost anywhere from $180 (rebuilt Qwest alternator) to $600 or more for a new high-output alternator.

 

wrangler makes 180 amp alt for our cars

 

Just wanted to thank everyone, especially Street for the advice. Makes a ton of sense and I'm actually going to try the wires and terminals first.

 

I'm running two Kinetik 800 power cells in the back in addition to the original stock bat in the front. Ive done 2 out of the big 3 (positive alternator wire upgrade requires under the car access and it's been raining for week straight ). I'm running 1100 watts @ 1 ohm to my subs and 115 watts @ 2 ohms in each of the 4 corners. No dimming for me.

BTW I was surprised to find paint under the Batt-chassis ground and the block-chassis ground. Make sure you remove the paint under those ground points when doing the upgrades.

 

That's a BIG +1. Star washers are also recommended.

 

Anytime, bro.

 

Just get a farad cap man. I'm running 750@3ohm to my sub and 125@4 ohm to each of my 4 speakers with a 5 farad cap in the loop and i have absolutely no dimming what so ever. I picked it up for like $80 from www.sonicelectronix.com

 

Sure, here's a thread/ pics for doing the Big Three on a Z.
https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...6&postcount=29