Capacitors in car audio -- not needed in my opinion.
08-27-2007 | 07:52 AM
#21
Originally Posted by DVFlyer
07-15-2008 | 02:59 AM
#25
Originally Posted by codek
this is a really awesome post
07-15-2008 | 05:00 AM
#26
Originally Posted by WPPJR30
I think you're right when you say that in every car audio system, a capacitor is not necessary. A capacitor is really only needed in a 'high powered' system. 
I, however, would put one in every system if at all possible... 
The function of a capacitor is different from that of a battery in that it does not produce it's own power; it stores electrical energy/power. A capacitor serves to help you get the most from your amplifiers. The power that it stores is available on demand right when it's needed (for instance, when you're playing something with heavy bass).
When your system's amplifiers are not receiving enough power, a common occurence is the light dimming that you mentioned. In that instance, the lights will follow the beat of the music, dimming each time a heavy bass note hits. If, at that moment, you turned off your headlights, your system would sound better.
If someone is going to build a quality system, I would venture to say that they are smart enough to upgrade their battery first. When that is done, a capacitor is surely one of the next things to consider. Then, you're getting every bit of electrical current you need and voltage drops, etc. will not be an issue for you any longer. You say, "This is great [capacitors] for providing your amps with the power they need on demand, but once that demand is met, the cap needs to recharge, so the strain is still there on your alternator and battery to charge the cap." I would say that this is why you can purchase capacitors in different sizes (.5 farad to 3 farad). I would argue that there is a capacitor that is appropriate for every sytem. For every 500 watts of RMS of power output you should have at least a .5 farad capacitor. So, you're right... if you're running a 10,000 watt system, a 1 farad cap would probably not help with the dimming lights and voltage dips.
In that case, you would need at least three 3 farad capacitors. 
Also, they should be mounted as close to the amplifiers as possible.
I hope that's clear and helps you out (or at least let's you see the other side of the argument)...
* As a sidenote, I am running a little less than 1000 watts of power in my current system, and I have two 1 farad capacitors mounted fairly close to my amplifiers (pictured below). I have never experienced the voltage drops or dimming lights. My system sounds nice. Granted, I don't have an overwhelming amount of power, but if I did it over again, I wouldn't ditch the capacitors just to save a few dollars...
I, however, would put one in every system if at all possible... The function of a capacitor is different from that of a battery in that it does not produce it's own power; it stores electrical energy/power. A capacitor serves to help you get the most from your amplifiers. The power that it stores is available on demand right when it's needed (for instance, when you're playing something with heavy bass).
When your system's amplifiers are not receiving enough power, a common occurence is the light dimming that you mentioned. In that instance, the lights will follow the beat of the music, dimming each time a heavy bass note hits. If, at that moment, you turned off your headlights, your system would sound better.
If someone is going to build a quality system, I would venture to say that they are smart enough to upgrade their battery first. When that is done, a capacitor is surely one of the next things to consider. Then, you're getting every bit of electrical current you need and voltage drops, etc. will not be an issue for you any longer. You say, "This is great [capacitors] for providing your amps with the power they need on demand, but once that demand is met, the cap needs to recharge, so the strain is still there on your alternator and battery to charge the cap." I would say that this is why you can purchase capacitors in different sizes (.5 farad to 3 farad). I would argue that there is a capacitor that is appropriate for every sytem. For every 500 watts of RMS of power output you should have at least a .5 farad capacitor. So, you're right... if you're running a 10,000 watt system, a 1 farad cap would probably not help with the dimming lights and voltage dips.
In that case, you would need at least three 3 farad capacitors. Also, they should be mounted as close to the amplifiers as possible.I hope that's clear and helps you out (or at least let's you see the other side of the argument)...
* As a sidenote, I am running a little less than 1000 watts of power in my current system, and I have two 1 farad capacitors mounted fairly close to my amplifiers (pictured below). I have never experienced the voltage drops or dimming lights. My system sounds nice. Granted, I don't have an overwhelming amount of power, but if I did it over again, I wouldn't ditch the capacitors just to save a few dollars...
sell me on the idea of why i would chose a capacitor over lets say a 2nd dry cell battery such as powermaster, stinger, kinetic
this should be interesting
07-15-2008 | 05:21 AM
#28
well in competition that i see monthly for SPL 99% use batteries, and 1 % use both caps and batts
0% use just caps
if i am running 10 thousand watts of power and my amp is drawing 1000 amps of current on full tilt
i would laugh at a capacitor
to suffice my system i need
5 runs on 1/0 from front to back
1 200 amp alt
1 1200 cca dry cell under hood
6-10 2400 cca dry cell batteries
my amp needs to be fed 1000 amps of current for a full 30 seconds
and i would never sell someone a $100 capacitor from my shop when for $150 they can get a dry cell battery for needs
0% use just caps
if i am running 10 thousand watts of power and my amp is drawing 1000 amps of current on full tilt
i would laugh at a capacitor
to suffice my system i need
5 runs on 1/0 from front to back
1 200 amp alt
1 1200 cca dry cell under hood
6-10 2400 cca dry cell batteries
my amp needs to be fed 1000 amps of current for a full 30 seconds
and i would never sell someone a $100 capacitor from my shop when for $150 they can get a dry cell battery for needs
07-15-2008 | 11:09 AM
#31
I agree, capacitor's are useless. First step do the "big 3", if you still have dimming change the battery to a Kinetik or PowerMaster, if you still have dimming you need a HO alternator and possibly a second battery, if you still have dimming, you're running too much power for a daily driver .
.
07-15-2008 | 02:32 PM
#32
Im a EE and have been doing car audio for over 6 years. A capacitor is indeed needed if the system requires it. In your average system its not required. No i dont want to go into hours of talk arguing with you people about it so called "load" on the system or why you need it or not. Can they be usefull? HELL YES, Does everyone need it? Nope.
07-15-2008 | 03:30 PM
#33
Originally Posted by eat rice z33
Im a EE and have been doing car audio for over 6 years. A capacitor is indeed needed if the system requires it. In your average system its not required. No i dont want to go into hours of talk arguing with you people about it so called "load" on the system or why you need it or not. Can they be usefull? HELL YES, Does everyone need it? Nope.
07-17-2008 | 04:00 AM
#34
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: NY
im too lazy to completely read everones comments, but from my experience, I was running two alpine 10" types S @ a 1ohm load off profile 1000 watt 2 channel amp, and peak off on my system I would watch the battery guage in the car drop to 11 and on rare occasions even 10 volts while the car was running. I just upgrade to power acoustik 3000d amp, two pioneer 1000w 10"s, and a two farad cap, and I never seen any voltage drops.
07-17-2008 | 04:37 AM
#35
Originally Posted by Abused350z
im too lazy to completely read everones comments, but from my experience, I was running two alpine 10" types S @ a 1ohm load off profile 1000 watt 2 channel amp, and peak off on my system I would watch the battery guage in the car drop to 11 and on rare occasions even 10 volts while the car was running. I just upgrade to power acoustik 3000d amp, two pioneer 1000w 10"s, and a two farad cap, and I never seen any voltage drops.
07-17-2008 | 06:33 AM
#36
Originally Posted by eat rice z33
Im a EE and have been doing car audio for over 6 years. A capacitor is indeed needed if the system requires it. In your average system its not required. No i dont want to go into hours of talk arguing with you people about it so called "load" on the system or why you need it or not. Can they be usefull? HELL YES, Does everyone need it? Nope.
point is when audio is in need of more food a battery is the better choice over the cap
07-17-2008 | 06:34 AM
#37
Originally Posted by Abused350z
im too lazy to completely read everones comments, but from my experience, I was running two alpine 10" types S @ a 1ohm load off profile 1000 watt 2 channel amp, and peak off on my system I would watch the battery guage in the car drop to 11 and on rare occasions even 10 volts while the car was running. I just upgrade to power acoustik 3000d amp, two pioneer 1000w 10"s, and a two farad cap, and I never seen any voltage drops.
dry cell > cap
07-17-2008 | 05:07 PM
#38
I have both a capacitor and a dry cell battery Optima Red Top. I believe the cap helps but to be honest the combo of the battery and cap helps the amps play @ full strenth 100% of the time.My bass remains constant and I never have fading lights in the car. I'm very happy with my setup.
07-18-2008 | 10:21 AM
#40
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: North Mississippi
lights would dim and the meter would spike when my bass hit. added a $35 cap. problem solved. i understand that a cap might be a "band aid" but for the ones that just want a little more bass a cap will help w/these issues.