FWIW- I've never heard anyone use a 9volt to test a speaker.... I'm not saying it's bad, I've just never heard it and I'd lean more on the safe side.

Use a 1.5v battery: AA, C, D.

 

1.5v battery works fine, I used the 9 volt battery a couple times because it was laying around...

 

How much sound were talking here. I took the whole thing apart and didnt get any sound out of it. Wondering how a 9 Volt would make such a Strong looking speaker thump. My next test is to test out the meter reading from the RC Jacks coming off the line converter.

 

If you have a multimeter, measure the voltage across the + and - speaker wire that you connect to the sub box. This will tell you if you are getting signal to the sub. Or if you have a spare driver laying around, hook that up to the speaker wire.

If you got no response from the driver with a 9volt battery, there may be something wrong with the driver

 

Hey whats up, really appreciate the help. I'm not sure what the "driver" is.

So what I got so far is:

1. Test the RC Jacks with a meter tester using DC set at .5.
2. Test the + and - on the output side of the amp to see if I get any signal to the sub using a meter tester. I will try these out and let you know.

Any and all suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.

 

driver = subwoofer in this case, or any speaker can be referred to as a driver.

 

You say you have a 2 channel amp bridged mono and it's rated for 1000 watts? Well assuming that it puts out a real world 1000 watts at 4Ohms then you are going to want to see a voltage output of 63.2 volts across the speaker wire + and -. This would be with a test tone playing within the frequency range of the subwoofer at 3/4 volume if everything is tuned correctly. With music playing it will bounce with the music.

 

It's not really a thump, but more of a light popping noise. Smaller mid-bass door speakers will actually move a little. A strong sub may not move. Just listen for the popping noise.....

 

Yeah I couldn't tell if it was making any noise. Hard to believe such a new and never abused speaker would go out.

Going to check on the output side of the AMP. See how much if any Volts I am getting.

 

Keep us updated...

 

So I after disbelieving that my Sub went bad (testing it with a 9 Volt gave me no results), I hooked up the sub to my surround sound system in the house, and it worked just fine. So now I can eliminate the Sub.

It's been difficult to work on the car its FN cold here in NY rite now. I'm going to check to see if I get any voltage from the RC Jacks coming off the Line Converter and if I do, then test to see if I get anything coming out of the amp.

Just don't get how a couple of spirited turns would make my **** go out. LOL

 

OK, you are starting to narrow down the problem. Let us know what voltages you find off the LOC and the amp.

 

did you take the sub out? or the sub box? if you only took the sub out.. maybe the wiring in the sub box?

 

I did take the Sub Out, re-checked my wiring for the correct OHMS, according to what worked if you checked on page 1 for wiring. I hooked up the sub with out the box and it worked, I hooked it all back up and tried it again inside the box, and it worked. Its possible the wiring was FD Up again in there who knows.

I have to test the Line Converter to see if I am getting any output from the RC Jacks. Only thing that concerns me though is I have tested audio devices here in the office to see if my volt meter reads anything and it doesn't. So I'm confused how it would read my car audio.

 

You can also test wire continuity with the Digital meter also. This will detect any interal wire opens inside the insulation that may not be visible.

Example:

If you have a 4 foot piece of speaker wire, take the + & - of one end and twist them together to make a short. Set your DMM to the setting that beeps when it detects a short. Place the leads at the other end of the speaker wire. If it beeps, you have good continuity. Meaning, the DMM can she the short you placed at the other end by twisting the wires together. If you don't hear a beep it means you have an open in the wire somewhere.

-2 cents-

 

So I have good news!!!

Hooked everything back up during lunch. Tested the line Converters RC Jacks using a meter tester. The meter tester setting was set at RX1 in order to get the reading. OK So converter is good Sub is good. Tested the AMP, the AMP has a RC Output figured if AMP works I would get a reading out of that, well I did. I tested the bridged line witch goes to the sub, and that worked. Hooked up the SUB, and BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM! I have BASS AGAIN!

Thanks for everyones help, I was going crazy for months with this. In the end I think it was a mixture of 3 different things.

1.The SUBS Wiring must have came loose when I went drifting.
2. The Fuse was Bad, replaced that.
3. Line converter was replaced, not sure now if the old 1 went bad, still have it just in case.
4. I had my BOSE Radio replaced under warranty for the problem I had with audio not coming on the left side when playing CD's.

I hope that this information can be helpful for someone else in the future.

 

Glad to hear you are back in business!!!!! *sigh* Don't you feel so accomplished now?

 

Good job!

 

I feel so accomplished, I cam back into my office with a Kool-Aid smile, and started immediately downloading music. LOL