Wattage for Active vs. Passive Crossovers
If I were to use an Alpine H701 processor as an active crossover for a 2-way component system, I realize this means that I'll have to add 2 more channels of amplification. However, I may need clarification on the wattage.
Say a 2-way component system is rated for 100w RMS...
I would now look for a 100x4 amplifier, correct? I only question this because sending 100w to a tweeter alone seems overkill at first thought, but then again passive crossovers don't split the power either....so even if I used passive crossovers and a 100x2 amp, the mids and the tweets are each getting 100w, correct?
Just want to make sure I've got this straight in my head.
Also, with a higher end speaker set such as DLS Iridiums or Polk SR6500, I would like some opinions on whether you would make the added investment of buying 2 more channels of amplification to run an active setup vs. passive. The setup will be the 2-way component system in Bing's custom kicks with sound deadener applied to at least the doors (and probably the floorboard and hatch area as well). Suppose the speakers and H701 had already been purchased so all that's left to do is make the active vs. passive decision and then pick a 2 or 4 channel amplifier based on your choice.
Say a 2-way component system is rated for 100w RMS...
I would now look for a 100x4 amplifier, correct? I only question this because sending 100w to a tweeter alone seems overkill at first thought, but then again passive crossovers don't split the power either....so even if I used passive crossovers and a 100x2 amp, the mids and the tweets are each getting 100w, correct?
Just want to make sure I've got this straight in my head.
Also, with a higher end speaker set such as DLS Iridiums or Polk SR6500, I would like some opinions on whether you would make the added investment of buying 2 more channels of amplification to run an active setup vs. passive. The setup will be the 2-way component system in Bing's custom kicks with sound deadener applied to at least the doors (and probably the floorboard and hatch area as well). Suppose the speakers and H701 had already been purchased so all that's left to do is make the active vs. passive decision and then pick a 2 or 4 channel amplifier based on your choice.
To answer the wattage question - you can use a 100wx4 amp and just turn the gains on the tweets down until the blend is where you want it.
As for the whole active/passive thing in general, unless you know everything there is to know about tuning a system and setting it up, I don't see the reason for going active using a pre-matched component set. The designers of that component set have way more knowledge and research into the design of the crossover, slopes, points, and crossover topology than your average "joe audio guy". And if you know THAT much, then you can piece together a far better set for less money by buying separate mids and tweets.
Now if you are purchasing separate mids and tweets, then by all means that is a different story since you are not purchasing a pre-matched set. If you want to go active to have better control or for boasting rights, then I would NOT buy a pre-matched set, I would buy separates.
I hope this makes sense.
EDIT: just in case you are interested, you can look for seperate components here: http://www.madisound.com/about/loudspeakers.php
As for the whole active/passive thing in general, unless you know everything there is to know about tuning a system and setting it up, I don't see the reason for going active using a pre-matched component set. The designers of that component set have way more knowledge and research into the design of the crossover, slopes, points, and crossover topology than your average "joe audio guy". And if you know THAT much, then you can piece together a far better set for less money by buying separate mids and tweets.
Now if you are purchasing separate mids and tweets, then by all means that is a different story since you are not purchasing a pre-matched set. If you want to go active to have better control or for boasting rights, then I would NOT buy a pre-matched set, I would buy separates.
I hope this makes sense.
EDIT: just in case you are interested, you can look for seperate components here: http://www.madisound.com/about/loudspeakers.php
Last edited by StreetOC192; Oct 30, 2007 at 08:57 AM.
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
To answer the wattage question - you can use a 100wx4 amp and just turn the gains on the tweets down until the blend is where you want it.
As for the whole active/passive thing in general, unless you know everything there is to know about tuning a system and setting it up, I don't see the reason for going active using a pre-matched component set. The designers of that component set have way more knowledge and research into the design of the crossover, slopes, points, and crossover topology than your average "joe audio guy". And if you know THAT much, then you can piece together a far better set for less money by buying separate mids and tweets.
Now if you are purchasing separate mids and tweets, then by all means that is a different story since you are not purchasing a pre-matched set. If you want to go active to have better control or for boasting rights, then I would NOT buy a pre-matched set, I would buy separates.
I hope this makes sense.
EDIT: just in case you are interested, you can look for seperate components here: http://www.madisound.com/about/loudspeakers.php
As for the whole active/passive thing in general, unless you know everything there is to know about tuning a system and setting it up, I don't see the reason for going active using a pre-matched component set. The designers of that component set have way more knowledge and research into the design of the crossover, slopes, points, and crossover topology than your average "joe audio guy". And if you know THAT much, then you can piece together a far better set for less money by buying separate mids and tweets.
Now if you are purchasing separate mids and tweets, then by all means that is a different story since you are not purchasing a pre-matched set. If you want to go active to have better control or for boasting rights, then I would NOT buy a pre-matched set, I would buy separates.
I hope this makes sense.
EDIT: just in case you are interested, you can look for seperate components here: http://www.madisound.com/about/loudspeakers.php
Originally Posted by Ge|atinousFury
Makes perfect sense, thanks a lot for the reply. I'll use the passive crossovers from whatever component set I pick and be done with it 

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