Opinions on the Fosgate P3 series subwoofers
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Yeah, the $20 spent wouldn't be a bad idea for you considering you show the car and play at high volumes for longer periods of time.
MAKE IT HAPPEN!
MAKE IT HAPPEN!
im sure this is a real stupid question but looking into upgrading my sub. how do i know if i need a single or dual coil ?
Last edited by LAKERSFAN; Dec 19, 2007 at 09:16 AM.
Originally Posted by vo7848
Gotcha. 
I've taken apart a few subs and seen tightly woven coils. The cheaper coil version is not as tightly and flatly spun around the interior cone, which would degrade the dynamics of it, which in turn would decrease airflow. Did I get that correct?
By purchasing this flat coil option, I'd have a sub that would run more efficient over a longer amount of time, before reaching it's failure point. Hence, making it a better sub for the extra $20 spent rather than purchasing an actual better sub built for SPL. This is of course all meant for a person that just wants a better sub, but doesn't wish to go all out like the hardcore SPL guys. Did I get this correct too? I'm just re-explaining it in my own words to see if I really got the message correct.
I'd probably purchase that option then. At outdoor events, it's pretty common for me to play the radio at a high volume for an hour straight.
I've taken apart a few subs and seen tightly woven coils. The cheaper coil version is not as tightly and flatly spun around the interior cone, which would degrade the dynamics of it, which in turn would decrease airflow. Did I get that correct?By purchasing this flat coil option, I'd have a sub that would run more efficient over a longer amount of time, before reaching it's failure point. Hence, making it a better sub for the extra $20 spent rather than purchasing an actual better sub built for SPL. This is of course all meant for a person that just wants a better sub, but doesn't wish to go all out like the hardcore SPL guys. Did I get this correct too? I'm just re-explaining it in my own words to see if I really got the message correct.
I'd probably purchase that option then. At outdoor events, it's pretty common for me to play the radio at a high volume for an hour straight.
Also the BEST way to set gain is using an oscilloscope, peeps.
Originally Posted by phreaktor
no.
Also the BEST way to set gain is using an oscilloscope, peeps.
Also the BEST way to set gain is using an oscilloscope, peeps.
Multimeter is probably the most convenient if I could get that chit to work
Originally Posted by blasian
Yeah, I have one of those in my pocket right now
Multimeter is probably the most convenient if I could get that chit to work
Multimeter is probably the most convenient if I could get that chit to work
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by vo7848
I'm really leaning towards the SSD12 model in the attachment below. How you feel about the options it comes with in the drop down menus?
Example:
1. Flatwind Coil
2. Copper Coil
3. BP power
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript
Example:
1. Flatwind Coil
2. Copper Coil
3. BP power
https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript
the more expensive speaker will provide a cleaner low end frequency note. The difference is minimal on paper, but in the real world there is a larger seperation. The coil on the speaker runs at a lower ohm than the less expensive one. Meaning, if you can get your amp to drop down to 1ohm which is the goal for most bass junkies the speaker will put less strain on the amp. (minimal difference)
The main difference i see between the specs is the SSD12 looks like it would do better in a sealed box compared to the Q12 which has a wide range inside a ported box. The Q12 has a .5" larger mounting depth which consists probably of a larger magnet.
Over and above, both of them will work just fine, probably sound damn similar to someone pushing 500-800 watts to them, but start getting over 2000 watts and the speakers will show their differences.
The main difference i see between the specs is the SSD12 looks like it would do better in a sealed box compared to the Q12 which has a wide range inside a ported box. The Q12 has a .5" larger mounting depth which consists probably of a larger magnet.
Over and above, both of them will work just fine, probably sound damn similar to someone pushing 500-800 watts to them, but start getting over 2000 watts and the speakers will show their differences.
Last edited by HondaKiller; Jan 2, 2008 at 09:44 AM.
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
For more sound and FLAIR (since you show your car) an impressive sub that works with your enclosure would be the Audiopulse Revo (Audiopulse is the old TC Sounds). This sub is more for SPL than SQ, but it will kick some butt and it looks good doing it. but I don't know of any authorized dealers....you'de have to call and locate one.
Linky:
http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...r-drivers/revo
Hope that helps.
Linky:
http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...r-drivers/revo
Hope that helps.
http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...r-drivers/epic
Originally Posted by vo7848
I reviewed this site again. Since I'm using my orginal enclosure now, the Epic 12" looks like another good option besides the FI SSD12. It's a bit more pricey @ $299.00, but never the less seems to have all the specs my enclosure requires.
http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...r-drivers/epic
http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...r-drivers/epic
Do you have a dealer near you or have you found an online store for Audiopulse?
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
I was always a big fan of TC Sounds subs. I feel you get a lot of driver for your money with them. I'm actually trying to plan out a 3-way front stage around their 6.5" woofer.
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Do you have a dealer near you or have you found an online store for Audiopulse?
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by StreetOC192
If you get the AudioPulse Epic, I'd like to hear your impression of it.
Originally Posted by vo7848
^^ Tr00f. That's how I blew my RF T1. Playing it for a few hours straight at the last car show...
he plays it all day long
sub is rated at 600 rms 1000 peak
amp is running 1 ohm 1100 watts to sub all day long
no blown sub, no burning coil
kinetic 800 by amp
optima under hood
again more power is better than less power
i am feeding this T1 almost double what it is rated for and it loves it
power is your friend , you'll find output your looking for , before clipping is introduced
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From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by 350zspl
i did a T1, 10" ported in a 2005 impala off a power series rf 1000 mono
he plays it all day long
sub is rated at 600 rms 1000 peak
amp is running 1 ohm 1100 watts to sub all day long
no blown sub, no burning coil
kinetic 800 by amp
optima under hood
again more power is better than less power
i am feeding this T1 almost double what it is rated for and it loves it
power is your friend , you'll find output your looking for , before clipping is introduced
he plays it all day long
sub is rated at 600 rms 1000 peak
amp is running 1 ohm 1100 watts to sub all day long
no blown sub, no burning coil
kinetic 800 by amp
optima under hood
again more power is better than less power
i am feeding this T1 almost double what it is rated for and it loves it
power is your friend , you'll find output your looking for , before clipping is introduced
Originally Posted by vo7848
I'm thinking I had a def T1, because the previous one I owned played for 2 years with no problem. I had to replace the original one becuase a beer bottle dropped in it while it was playing. The bottle ruined the metal cone. A dented sub is no good for show...
don't even fart next to it