ok seriously, im going insane trying to find some info on this...

i want to do a fairly simple sub replacement... nothing insane, nothing to make other peoples ears around me bleed and nothing to ake mirrors fall off (eventually, but not right now =] )

i just want to male my zr bump without getting rid of any trunk space (because i have to conserve what little room i have) and without shedding $300 for a ffuccking enclosure to C.A.S....

so, i decided to go with an aftermarket FREE-AIR subwoofer to go where the stock bose sub is, and an aftermarket amp to push it, along with my alpine headunit...

i already have the alpine headunit, i already have the wiring kit from previous installs, and i can easily get my hands on the dash bracket as well as a wiring harness...

now here lies the damn problem.... WHERE THE FUUCK CAN I RESEARCH, LET ALONE BUY A FREAKIN FREE-AIR SUB!!!!!! =[

i need info, specs, any help i can gte because i cant find a damn thing! =[

after i somehow find the sub, ill figure out the amp acordingly.....

someone pppllleeeaaasssee give me some info on a free-air sub the i cant fit in the zr compartment! its a 10" space... the bose is a shalow sub, but i dunno if thats a necessity or not...
as i said.. i need help lol....


anyone?!?!?!

 

Okay take a deeeeeep breath. Hold it...
Hoooooold it.....
Now exhale.

What you are talking about is a subwoofer that is optimized for Infinite Baffle configuration. If you do a search on google you will find more.

That being said, after you learn a bunch about infinite baffle setups, you will realize that one side must actually be sealed off from another, you can't just put a free-air sub in free-air and have it work.

So with that new found information, you will need to seal up your bose sub compartment, which can be done using sound deadening mat as some on here have demonstrated. At this point you may notice that what you have now is a sealed enclosure, so then you will throw your free-air subwoofer into the ocean as a token of your frustration and buy a nice regular subwoofer optimized for sealed enclosures.

 

were in florida are you located

 

if you serached then you should have long read by now its a terrible idea to stick any sort of sub just in the stock bose location.

if you want base in your ZR, spend the money on the wicked cas box.

be realistic, i nthe car modding world, you always gotta give up something to gain something, no such thing as free lunch...

 

$300 CAS subbox for a $38,000 car and you are complaning about it, WTF!!!!!!!!!! not worth the stress.

 

A 10" sub does not just "drop-in" the factory location as the stock bose sub uses a smaller mounting hole that a typical 10" sub. It's more like a 9" sub. Also, the factory "box" has too many holes and even with an aftermarket amp and a infinite baffle sub there will not be much of an improvement in sound, thus it will still sound like poo.

 

ok.. so basically what everyone is saying is my efforts are pointless! lol

how would it work out if i matted the stock compartment, threw in a regular 10" sub, and i guess pre-drilled holes for its fitment?

for the question about whatpart of FL... sarasota/bradenton area...

and for the coment about a $38k car lol... i worked at nissan when i bought mine and it was a trade-in... so i actually only paid $17.5k ; )
im good like that lol...

but yea, what do u guys think about that?

 

same as above, you would be spending effort for pretty crappy results.

suck it up and get hte wickedcas box.

 

Pics of this box, I am asusming it goes in the corner in the trunk?

 

it actually goes where the stock bose sub is and/or where the glove box is, freeing up the trunk...

but theyre $350 a fuccking peice!!!!

 

i cant afford it =[

but if u wanna hook it up i wont say no =] lol

 

There are some people on here who have done it and they seem pleased with the results.. I personally have not heard one. Try it out.

 

For your budget, get an Infinity bass link (around 150 on eBay +wiring) and install it in the area behind the stock subwoofer. Dont know how well it will work, but its cheap.

 

Just get a Basslink for around $130-$250 and stick it in the sub compartment. Problem solved, spaz.

 

basslink it is! =]

two questions now... how would i go about installing it... like how would i get it to fit in the stock bose sub compartment and wiring and all that fun stuff...

and if i can put one behind the driver seat, would it be possible to remove the glove ox and put one behind the passenger seat? =]

 

Honestly man... no seriously. Save up the cash to do it the right way. Thats the way you need to go about it. You get what you pay for, and throwing the basslink in that spot isnt going to give you what you want.

How much do you use your trunk in the ZR? Consider what you are using it for and how much you use it. If you were worried about trunk space then you should have considered a different car to start with.

I wanted to do the same thing as you when I first got my Z. I came to the truth of the matter, and realized its just not going to give the results that I want (and trust me you will find that out too) and I am now looking into a zenclosures box for my trunk. I dont use my trunk cept when I get food and such from the store... so wtf am I stressed over trunk space for? Think about it my friend... do it right or dont do it at all!

 

The "Correct" installation process to get out the stock glove and bose sub plate is not too hard but will require some patients. To keep from bending the hell out of the side panels in that go from the rear of the door to the front of the shock tower crossing, you need to remove them. Here is a list of what to remove.

1. Lower weather trim panels. (Lining the bottom of the door)
2. Weather stripping along rear door area. (Covers the side panel)
3. Side panels listed above.
4. Gear Shifter panel. to get access to the screws on the next piece.
5. Center console Trim. (Disconnect the wires for the hazzards)

Once that is all out move your seats all the way forward. (Or take them out is you need lots of room)

To get off the trim for the rear glove area.

1. Remove the Glove hatch latch holder. (Pass side, 2 screws and the hardpiont latch)
2. The 12 volt plug can be popped out OR you can remove with the trim piece, make note of the wire)
3. VERY CAREFULLY remove the trim piece itself. ( If come off if you do not over force it)
4. Remove the 10mm bolts to what you do not want. BOSE or Glove side. (There are A LOT of these 10mm)

You can then either modiy the stock Sub panel and have the hole matched to your new "free air" Sub. OR you can make your on 10 inch enclosure out of the area there. (This is not easy if you do not know how and where to seal off all the holes)

You might be able to fit a 8 inch sealed box in that area and secure it down. I would recommend you Brown bag the area and have the stock glove cover (Driver side) modified to have a cut out and speaker mesh wrapped. The brown bag is like dynomat that cost a lot less and would lesson the road noise from that area, which can be loud.

SO with that said you can fit a small amp in that same area if you will not requre access to it or you can wire it into the Pass glove box by removing the bottom panel and running the wire up though it. Since the sides and center console is out at this point, you can run your speaker and power lines down separate routes to the head unit and passenger fire wall, for battery access. I would remove the pass seat to make it much easier to work.

As much as I know, there have been a lot of good and bad things said about the free-air subs. I have not seen one in action though.

Hope this helps a little, take care.

Scott

 

ok... do u think the basslink can fit in there??