I am in the process of having to replace one of my amplifiers. I currently have two Blaupunkt THA PNP 275's. I have been fairly happy with them thus far, but I lack enough information as to what I should replace it with. The amp will be powering a set of Focal 165 VRS. The other amp is currently bridged an powering a JL 10W0 so I need approx 75 to 100 watts per channel, and then I get confused by 12.5 volts v. 14.4 volts of RMS power and if that output is different with an AB than with a Class .... I feel like butters right now after he's had too much coffee...

I googled the question, and little info really came up, I understand the differences, but I don't have enough real world exp. to base my decision off of anything solid.

I am looking at possibly getting an Alpine PDX 4.100, a Zapco 200.2 a JL of some description, or just replacing it with another PNP275, I am just at a loss as to what to replace it with.

Obviously I am willing to remove both amps and go to a single 4 channel, not sure if it would buy me anything or not so I am asking for suggestions.

I would like to know the major differences in terms of sound quality between a Class D or a Class A/B. D's are smaller more efficient, but have more distortion... I am just confused at this point...
Thanks

 

ab amps are better for running mids and highs

mono amps are better at running woofers

some amps are rated rms at 12.8 volts such as sundown
some amps are rated at 14 volts such as rockford

 

Why are AB better for Mids and Highs?

I have noticed that sometimes my tweeters are plagued with a distortion type noise at high volumes. It's not amp clipping, its just an odd noise that comes out of the tweeter... almost like a bass thump but it's much higher and its coming out of the tweeter... is this distortion and is it because of the Class D running the fronts?

The "noise" can come from either tweeter, not usually both and it occurs randomly at higher volumes. Meaning that I don't think it's the crossover or the wiring... The amp is the only thing I can figure is the problem... But I am adding an Audio Control EQX to try and prevent this from happening further...Suggestions?

The Focal's have an RMS of 65 watts... should I replace the amp with a type AB?

 

Run a D for your subs, I doubt you will notice the difference in sound quality. It will pull less current from your charging system, and won't get quite as hot.

 

OK, I am running a D for my sub. What about for my fronts?

 

You can get either class ab or full-range class d (i.e. Eclipse XA series, Alpine PDX series, Pioneer also has a line of these)

 

What's a Full range?

 

Class D is a very efficient topolgy, but in its efficiency, it gives up on the SQ side of things with typically increased THD. THD is most evident in the upper freq range. Therefor a class D is suitable for subwoofer use where the higher THD will not be noticed.

Bang & Olufsen (and Karsten Nielsen) developed a patented processing technology that allows a class D topology be used without giving up SQ. B&O called this "IcePower". It has been utilized by Eclipse, Alpine, and Pioneer in their full-range class d amplifier lines. These amps are called "full-range class d" because they are class d amps that can be used for full range use with low THD numbers.

http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/

I own two Eclipse XA amps and find them to be very high quality and very musical and clean.

 

What would you buy if you were in my position? Given that I am not looking for the best and greatest, just something that will provide me with a solid listening exp.

 

I would seriously consider one of the full range class d amps. They are more efficient than ab amps, so it will be less draw on your electrical system.

The Eclipse XA series has been revamped since I purchased, but I expect they are still fantastic.
http://www.eclipse-web.com/amp/index.html

The Alpine PDX series gets goot reviews from it's owners.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...p?category=AMP

The Pioneer PRS series is new, but would expect them to be pretty solid.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...iers/PRSSeries

 

I would just get an AB amp... you have a zillion options and will spend less. AB is a tried and true method...

 

This is true....more options if you go ab

No necessarily true....quality for quality they cost about the same.

All production topologies are tried and true.....I don't understand this comment i guess?

 

DLS a6 ftw

 

Comparing specs to the Blaupunkt, it appears that the THD rating is approx. the same as what I currently have... Based on what I have described, does it sound like a distortion issue with my amp and my fronts? Will the distortion cause the amp to sound like it cuts out for a zillionth of a second too? I checked my ground, power and RCA connections and they all seem solid... But again it only happens at the upper limit of what I can stand acoustically... Thoughts?

What are most peoples thoughts on Zapco? My friend swears by them but I don't have any first hand exp. with them. The issues I am having is there is really a limited amount of info for these things without having spent tons of money to hear all kinds of different set ups...

DLS is supposed to be killer, but it's a bit more than I am willing to spend for an amp... When I was big into car stereo it was PPI, Quarts and JL... JL is really the only brand that seems to get solid marks anymore but most state that they are way overpriced which I tend to agree with now. PPI sucks from what I can gather since they have been bought and sold and Quart is making a comeback but still not what they used to be...

What I am looking for is small, efficient and has low THD... I used an ENine.4 in my previous car and I was not very impressed, but that is somewhat common for the Nine.4, the other amps get really solid reviews...

 

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5582 would this work you think?

The amps listed are solid in appearance, the problem is that they have more output than I need... I would be concerned with getting the gains low enough to not blow the Focals. 120 max power is what the manual states...

Thanks for the info though.

 

Zapco makes a rock solid amp. Even their lower line is better than most other lower lines out there. Look at Audison as well.

 

I have a buddy of mine that is selling his 1 yr old REF 200.2 to get a DC 200.2, he is letting me have it for $200 and there isn't a scratch on it. I will probably go with it.

I have read a lot about Audison some excellent reviews, some terrible ones the SRx 80 x 2 or something looks intriquing.. this is what makes car stereo info so difficult, b/c I have no idea if the people writing these reviews are chuckleheads or if they know what they are talking about...

 

You have to take consumer reviews with a grain of salt......most of the people probably haven't tuned the amps properly. I use those consumer reviews more or less just for reliability, not for performance.

One of the biggest factors in your amp choice will be your budget. Set a maximum limit and find the best amps that fit within that.

 

I don't really have a budget, but spending 1k on a McIntosh amp is probably not something that I am willing to do, not b/c of the money but b/c of the cost benefit...

I just want something that is going to sound good, I'm going with the Zapco though.

 

I have a basically new JL Audio e4300 4 channel amp (class AB). Pm me if you're interested.