Ok, so I have deadened, and removed and redeadened the f*ckin drivers side interior panel about 6 times, and everytime the vibration inbetween the speaker and the door handle area starts to vibrate and rattle...

the passenger side is fine, I think it's b/c of the handle on that side which holds everything together and prevents resonance...

I have currently applied 4 layers of edead and allowed it to cure before I apply some foam to the area...

Can I get some suggestions to help with this problem... I am losing my mind...

 

I have the same rattle but have not yet attempted to fix it but it too is driving my crazy, literally. I want to take the door panel back off, located the rattle and epoxy the hell out of it, even if that is a bad idea.

 

Kicks should fix your problem.... But seriously if you have a moving part (door handle controlled by a spring) it is gonna rattle. My guess is that you dont wanna epoxy the door handle and the spring... So in all seriousiness kicks will solve your problem.

Chris

 

There must be someone out there with door pods that could pipe in on this.

 

What do door pods have to do with anything.... Yes that MIGHT fix your problem but they also might not, being that they are still part of the door and could still cause the vibrations. Kicks take everything that moves in the speaker area completly out of your door thus solving your problem. After 4 Layers of EDEAD i doubt you will be able to stop the rattles now.

Chris

 

Just saying enough people have got door pods and I have not heard any complaints with rattles. A good install with proper bracing with the pods?

 

thats becuase most people dont publicly complain about anyhting if its minor.

i have just about tried everyhting to kill rattles from 350z and G35's doors, espeically the 350z, i have laid on so much dampening that the entire door closes like a merc...

but guess what, between 100-300hz, it still causes buzzing in the door, thats beucase certain moving parts are doing it and you cannot dampen it...and the 350z door is definetly among the worst out of all the cars i have done...one giant sheet of realtively cheap plastic with everything bolted to it...

i honestly believe there is no real way to completely get rid of rattles and buzzes if you have a decently powerful midbass installed in the stock door location or pods...you can kill it, but never get rid of it..

again, just speaking from expeirnces here

 

I did some more deadening and discovered that the circuit board in the crossovers was what was vibrating and humming...

I placed a couple globs of RTV to prevent it from doing anything else...

I reinstalled everything and most of the buzz and hums are gone now...

the only thing still giving me grief is the door handle mechanism and as Bing stated before, can't do anything for that...

All in all I am fairly happy with how it turned out, it was incredible how much the crossover was vibrating... And I also agree with how cheap the 350's door panel is... I am not impressed at the fit and finish of the interior parts either for the most part... hell of a sports car for the money, but the interior is lack luster... whatever... I'm done with my rant.

 

what midbass do you have htere and what freq?

when ever a realatively powerful midbass is in the door to my experince, highpassed at 60-80hz, it really causes buzzing on an annoying scale, cuaes to me it really takes away from the experinces.

but it sounds like you did a grat job, cuase i had more buzzing than what you are describing even with a crap load of dampening...the door handle, the window switch panel area, and the whole little pocket part down below would buzz still...

 

Glad it worked out for you.

 

Focal 165 VRS, 70hz

I applied 4 thick coats of the Edead on the panel. I let that dry and then I was really **** about making sure that the first layer of foam fit pretty close within the "square" spaces on the back. I then layered one continious layer of foam on top of that, then two layers of sound deadening on the panel.

On the door itself I applied a layer of foam and then a layer of sound deadener along with some edead in the speaker area.

The areas you mention were a PITA, especially the useless cupholder... I need to do something about the passenger side b/c the light on the drivers side is a lot brighter now because it can't escape behind the panel... the interior looks a little funny if you notice it...

I will check out my crossover point as well...

I am noticing that tweets are just too bright in the stock location, how much do you charge to make a set of the A-Pillars if I send you the pillars and tell you the tweets I am using?

Also, what is an Active Front Stage? I think I understand it from context, but I am not 100%.

Thanks for the info as usual.

 

taking a stab in the dark but i think hes referring to active crossovers

 

Yeah, I don't know what active crossovers are... can I get some explaination about how they work and what they are?

 

yeah stofk tweeters tend to be harsh.

going active basically means that instead of relying on the passiver xover modules that come wtih the speakers, which are preset at certain freq. and AFTER the amplifier, you apply the xover settings BEFORE the amp's output.

this can happen at:

1. headunits with xovers built in
2. active crossover modules or DSPs
3. the amp itself's xovers

the main advantages of this are:

1. more efficiency, the passiver xovers are power sappers, meaning say you send 100 watts x 2 to a comp set off hte passives, it wont nearly have the power actually reaching the speaker as if you sent 50 watts to each tweeter and 50 watts to each mid without the passive xovers in line.

2. much more adjustability and tuning. with most active set ups, you can vary the crossover freqs. slopes and other aspects of it on your own, this makes for a much more flexible set up for tuning to get the sound closer to where you need it.

of course, you dont just need any normal active xover, yo need a 3 way active crossovers, with the abiliyt to do bandpass on TWO of hte channels powering hte two midbasses, meaning you have to be able to do both HP and LP on it to form a bandpass, of say 70-2500hz...so this requires a specific kind of xover.

in the Z, it is my opinion that if you want to do A pilla tweets, you should definetly have some sort of DSP, with not only xover controls but also full EQ and time alignment, to really take advatange of it. just sticking a pair of tweets up there, and running it without much tuning wont do you much good. you might as well just tsick the tweet into the kick panels. it would also sound no better, if not worse, than a two way kick panel set up. so tuning ability is essential IMO.

b