Bridging Channel 3&4 on the Alpine MRV-F345 will give you 300 watts to run a sub, while one and two give you 75 each. You could bridge 1&2 to get 150, but that would mean you would be running one component on 150w and the other would be receiving a hearty dose of 300w? Is there something you can change on the amp to make it so 3&4 only put out 150w instead of 300w?

 

wow, missed that part

"300 watts RMS x 1 (channels 3/4) + 75 watts RMS x 1 (channels 1/2) in bridged mode"


find another amp that can actually feed these

 

You just said a second ago not to run more than 75 watts... And I've just read that it's recommended to run these speakers at 70 watts.
So what do you mean?

 

ideally you want to run new wire... if not 75w will be underpowering those speakers

 

The speakers are rated at 25-150 watts, with a specific RMS at 70watts. How would he be underpowering with 75 w RMS??? Underpowering would be someone running these components off of the head unit.

 

read it wrong, i thought they were 150 rms. either way ive always put about 150/side on jl components and there still going good in my friends cars. they are loud and clear.

 

I'm so tempted to get a sub now... :-P

 

LOL! Thats what im doing...I said to myself "the amp and components will be enough for me" yea, RIGHT. I need BASS

 

You may end up being a little disappointed when you first listen to the new system, as it may lack the bass you have been used to from the stock system. BUT, what you need to realize is that the stock speakers are designed to play a full range of sound, but they lack any real detail. Your new components are going to be so much more clear and precise because they will be playing the mids and highs, and not wasting power trying to reproduce the lows. Thats where a sub comes in; it really brings the system together.

 

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