Have a 03 with exchaust / intake and the car is kinda loud (already loud as stock, but now louder with the mods)

Basically when I drive, I can hear the tweeters just fine but am missing tons of mids. I know it's partly due to the location of the sail panel, but was wondering what I can do to bring the mids out a bit.

Would better drivers work?

Should I have an amp driving those drivers?

How about dynamat?

Quieter tires?

Take off exhaust / intake??

Someone told me the dynamat-ing of the door with help alot, but wanted to ask you guys who've already done it to see what your experiences was.

Thanks

 

Hm. Missing a lot of information. Is this based on stock system? Or aftermarket system? Need full details...

Doorpods..kick panels...a-pillar tweeters...aftermarket speakers...aftermarket amplifiers..aftermarket head-unit.. the list goes on.

 

alpine HU w/ stock-ish speakers. alpine does a good job powering the lowe end door speakers. I get volume after cranking up the dial, but ears end up paying the price (kinda thin / high freq sound w/ little mids)

I would think in general dyna should decrease the road sound right? i hear a lot of sound from the back (trunk / rear wheel / and exhaust) area. Not used to the sound, the z seems to be an inherently loud car.

 

The stock speakers suck, the car has no noise intrusion prevention.

Those two factors are killing you.

Running new speakers will help, as will reducing the points of entry for noise.

 

agree with the speaker comment, but assuming everything being equal:

would dynomating the doors alone be enough? (as opposed to dynomatting the entire cubby hole behind the driver, the back/trunk)

 

Get different speakers and an amp to power the mids as well. Your stock tweets don't need as much juice as the mids do. You are probably cranking your speakers up so by the time you hear them, your tweets are at a level that's uncomfortable for the ear.

Dynmat the rear trunk around the spare tire. Alot of road noise comes from under the passenger/ driver's seat, so use some kind of closed cell foam sound insulation. Combinations of different sound deadeners tend to work better than just one.

 

Not likely.

BTW edead on ebay is a good buy for sound deadening (in terms of price and quantity).

Ive heard good things about it as well - I won't have mine until Friday so I can't comment.

 

Interesting re edead, hadn't heard about it before. Seems also lighter than dynamat. What's the catch?

 

Weight is how it works, its a mass dampener. You have to use more edead in some situations because its thinner, but its still a lot cheaper than dynamat by application (at least that I've found) and I haven't heard anything bad.

 

so in order of importance, where would you dymanat (or edead) the z? cubby / glove compartment, then trunk, then doors? is that the right order?

 

Depending on goals, the trunk floor area, the cubbies, the doors, and the hatch. A lot of noisecomes trhiugh the rear sections of the cubbies and trunk floor in regards to exhaust.

 

get 2 amps... some components and a subwoofer.. you're good to go..

now depending on your budget.. we can give you suggestions on what equipment

 

how about a combined amp (I think alpine PDX - 5 or something.) I might be getting ahead of myself, will prob just do the dyna, but doesn't hurt to think about hardware.

 

If you lay the same amount of thickness all around the car with eDead, it will probably end up costing as much as Dynamat Xtreme because you are doing multiple layers of the eDead.

The only benefit i see with the eDead is versatility. Not all panels need the same thickness all around as Dynamat Xtreme so in a way, it is cheaper.

I have a combo of fatmat(trunk) and eDead (on doors) and teklite (under seats).

The jury is still out on how well eDead adheres in the long run, in extreme heat so I've kept it off the floor board and areas where it might be too hot.

You mean a "multi-channel amp" ?

That's fine. You don't even need a five channel. A four channel is fine...just run the two front channels for your front components and the rear two channels bridged for a sub. Our small interior two seaters don't need the rear-speakers to overpower the fronts.

Usually a 5 channel is setup: 2 for front, 2 for rear passengers and 1 for sub.

 

buy 2 amps.. one for front components and one for rear sub.. i don't like combining amps because when it goes.. your whole system is shot

 

What do you mean by "shot"?

 

if your amp blows.. you can't listen to your radio.. nothing to power your components or amp.. so you will end up having to wait until you get a new amp in to replace it..

if your sub amp goes.. you can continue without a sub.. if your component amp goes.. you can turn the amp down and use that for your components.. or if you feel like it.. you can wire them both up to the amp thats still working until you get a replacement.. its another reason i don't like all in one units like TV's with DVD players built in

 

You have a point, since I stay away from integrated devices too.

In this case, a proper installation with the right fuses goes a long way. I wouldn't want to keep my system running until a problem was fully rectified, but then again, I have my rear-stockers still hooked up and down for "emergency" purposes.

 

i also prefer the tunability and volume control of separate amps

 

so no need to change the rears? is there ANY benefit of getting better rears? doesn't the crappy sound from rears trash the sound from the nice system you guys have?