So I was looking for a way to fit a sub into the factory cut out and realized i could use the back of the bose sub as an adapter ring...


This is the sub after i pried it apart and cut the back ring off with a pair of tin snips


Here is the cut ring and the sub that is going in...


Here is how the sub sits in the ring, LIKE A GLOVE



Then just bolt the sub to the ring and then bolt the ring in using the factory hardware and you are good to go!!!

It works great and looks good as well, an installed picture will come tomorrow as its getting dark now

 

well yea but this is just covering mounting... im going to fill in most of the free space...

 

How are you planning to seal the space?

--Spike

 

I did this myself, to mount a JL W0 I didn't use the mounting ring though. I bent out the folded over metal. Drilled my own holes. I used double sided stuff to seal the actual sub to the "box" I used ALOT of Dynamat to close in the box. I took up airspace by sticking 3 pillows inside the box. I mounted an Alpine amp in the "glove box"

 

Thats pretty much what im doing except im using polyfill to fill the space...

 

Dude i commend you for trying but it is evident your not too familiar with car audio. You can not make an enclosure like that. I see you just got the car so you might not know members were trying to do this 5-6 years ago its been done to death with
failed results each time. So stop while your ahead and stop wasting your time and please dont finish the project and come back on and say it sounds good because we all know better. You cant just throw any sub in what may seem like a box and expect it to sound good.

 

polyfill or pillows would make the box seem larger to the sub then if there was no fill used. it slows down the sound waves with makes the space seem larger. if you could find a free air sub then this method would work fine, but with most subs you will need a defined box.

 

You need to listen to advice dave079, duro78, and nismo542 provides.

The type SubW you are installing will sound awful unless you seal the space. Loading the space with filler isn't the solution, and it might only make things worse.

--Spike

 

Point #1

The woofer needs to be seals 100% completely totally air tight. A quick check is to gently press the woofer down to it's retraction point - about an inch for a bigger woofer. You should feel the pressure pushing back ... hold for about 20-30 seconds and then release - the woofer should spring back quickly. Even a pin hole air leak is bad. Sealed woofer means sealed. An unsealed woofer is sloppy and distorted and in can actually cause the woofer to shake itself to death.

Point #2

There is a bunch of science behind the design of a subwoofer. I've posted many (many) times before but the bottom line is that they're carefully designed to operate in a given volume of air. For most 8" to 10" woofers that range is about 0.5 cubic feet to about 1.25 cubic feet - what sounds good at 0.5 is going to sound bad at 1.25. If the woofer is designed around 0.75 then up or down a bit is OK for taste ... but stay too far and a good woofer sure sounds bad.

Respect the manufacturer of the woofer and do it justice by putting it in a sealed enclosure of a proper size please.

 

^^ Paul, Great points. As usual you provide advice with specific instructions and facts.

Something I had not considered that you point out…
…is absolutely true. If you mount a SubW designed for a sealed compartment, and you simply “poly-fill” the space (instead of an airtight seal); you can expect this:

• Best case: The Subw will sound poorly, and it will eventually shake the mount loose.
  
  
• Worst case (and an eventual certainty): The SubW will be irreversibly damaged (i.e., “Shaken SubW Syndrome” ).

--Spike