So i'm looking for a alternator. I've been searching online and whatnot. I need a question answered that the dealers in my area can't answer. I need to know if the alternator is pcm controlled or not. Basically meaning is the regulator for the alternator controlled via pcm. For changes in load or what not. Thanks in advance.

 

what kind of audio are you running and electrical also.

 

There are no references in the FSM to the term "PCM" so my guess is that it's not a PCM controlled unit.

Here's the system description...

CHARGING SYSTEM PFP:23100
System Description AKS0098X
The alternator provides DC voltage to operate the vehicle's electrical system and to keep the battery charged.
The voltage output is controlled by the IC regulator.
Power is supplied at all times to alternator terminal 4(S) through:

10A fuse (No. 36, located in the fuse and fusible link block).
Terminal B supplies power to charge the battery and operate the vehicle's electrical system. Output voltage is
controlled by the IC regulator at terminal 4(S) detecting the input voltage.
The alternator is grounded to the engine block.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied:

through 10A fuse [No. 14, located in the fuse block (J/B)]

to combination meter terminal 23 for the charge warning lamp.
Ground is supplied to combination meter terminal 17 through alternator terminal 3 (L). With power and ground
supplied, the charge warning lamp will illuminate. When the alternator is providing sufficient voltage with the
engine running, the ground is opened and the charge warning lamp will go off.
If the charge warning lamp illuminates with the engine running, a malfunction is indicated.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR
The IC regulator warning function activates to illuminate charge warning lamp, if any of the following symptoms
occur while alternator is operating:

Excessive voltage is produced.

No voltage is produced

 

Ok thank you! I just want to make sure and i guess thats proof! I don't see why companies would make upwards of 270amp alts if the internal regulator was controlled by the pcm. There would be no point, as you could never ramp the voltage up above 14.4 i bet. I see that if excessive voltage is produced the warning function will activate. Its probably saying that if the alternator goes above internal regulating voltage. Which is probably no higher than 14.4 to 14.5, it would alarm the system. I just wonder what would happen if the voltage was set to say 15-15.3 on the alt. I wonder if the system would comply or alarm?!

 

jvc double din, German maestro high end front and rear. Old school planet audio 300.2, dd m3(2400w@11.9v,@1 ohm), and dd 9512. Working on the electrical. So, the amp will have to be run @4ohm(600@4ohm at 11.9 volts) until the upgrades are done. Kinda sucks but it will pay off in the end. Also, i have to rebuild my box since i'll basically tripling if not quadruple the power i had. Also the amp can run somewhat safely down to about .25ohms. Imagine the current draw!! Amp has been clamped by several different people to put out 4000+ watts at .25. Craziest thing is people play these things all the time down to the lower end of 10 volts. Most amps would hate life at this point, if not blow!

 

you know once i upgraded to an optima and did the Big 3 even at full tilt i never drop below 12 actually hover around 13. When its not under load and just idle i never go under 12. If you running anything under 12 your putting a tremendous strain on your alt and it wont last too long the amps should go into protect from the voltage drop way before 10 like you said fry. Are you sure that amp can run at .25 thats crazy low? How many cubes is your box gonna be? please build it right that 9512 will be a beast lol how come you didnt just go with two 10's more cone area. Check out a deka intimidator batt
cheaper than the optima and as good if not better i just didnt want to risk it not fitting cus I would of had to put it in backwards since the posts are reversed. Do everything else before spending $ on a HO alt as you know they aint cheap

 

Maybe it wont drop below 12, but i'll just have to see. I'm definitely going to start with the basics for sure. Big 3, and i already have a grounding(earthing) kit. Then more than likely a stinger battery up front. I'm undecided between that or a batcap 3000 if i can manage to fit it.


Yeah the amp can run that low. After imp. rise the amp never acutally sees that low. Rise is normally around 3-5x actual imp. So the lowest it might acutally see is .75. Which is still really low considering.

I have to talk to a few people but i'm thinking somewhere around 3 cubes after displacement. maybe a hair smaller. It was already a beast. I will probably try a birch box this time. I'm still thinking maybe a 6" aero, but i'm not ruling out a slot. Box will be resined inside and smoothed. It wont be the best looking(nothing fancy as far as designs or looks go) but it will beat! ha ha. I want to go ten's just having a hard time finding 2 9510d2's at the moment. I wanna run the amp at .5ohm daily. But it will be a while!

 

sounds like a nice setup. the batcap isnt gonna unless you do some major modifying and dont waste your money on the stinger all it is a deka with their label on it no difference at all. The only thing that really sucks is all the etra weight in the back now my subs and box add another 100 ibs in the rear. did you ever consider other brands dont get me wrong DD is top dog but like you said 2 10s are hard to find but 2 10's would hit harder and get louder. My 2 sx's flex the body panels and get ridiculously loud plus you wont need to upgrade your electrical past what i mentioned. Theres some nasty sh** out there as you know. That 1 12 will be a beast though. Its gonna be very hard to get the box space i have 2.25 and that takes up my entire trunk space i would def pass if you cant get the space cus you damn sure will never soo the subs true potential

 

I know what you mean. I already had a box 3 cubes after displacement,on only maybe 1200 watts, and the rear wiper would bounce on a lower note. Its a really tight fit. I'll work something out! I rarely use any hatch space anyways. So filling it up won't hurt me.

 

i'm going to check out the deka batts. Any place i should look?

 

just google Deka and compare lowest prices i havent been in the market for a battery in awhile. There are so many subs out there i wanna hear. Howd you fit 3 cu's in the back I guess you had to remove the flooring. i really want to do a mult Sa 8's setup sundowns new SA's are beast 1 of them is hitting 150 on a tl in a crx of course. Theres so many things i wanna try in the z,would also want to hear a 15 with proper cubes though. I kept my 10w6v2 so I could switch out for sq but damn I missed ported