What about an Infinity BassLink? one of those might be able to fit.

 

someone has to have aftermarket subwoofer in there alreay right? please post info...we need more info....


another subwoofer I was thinking was the JL IB4, which doesn't require box.. it's more of a freeair sub.

 

This is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay up there on my "things-to-do" list! ANd yes, judging by what I see, 'free-air' is the way to go, after laying some DYNOMAT!

 

anyone know how the IB4 compares to their W0 and W1 series?

 

Reminds me of the SNL skit "you put your weeeeeeeeeeeed in heeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrreeeeeee"

 

Actually done some research on this matter...here is what I know. (taking car in tomorrow to get stereo stuff installed):

Option 1:
Yes a free-air sub is definetly an option. My stereo place here in Dallas (which has done some kick-*** stuff in previous cars) recommened the JL IB4. The speaker is very similar to the W0 series. My problem is that I already have a JL10W3 and probably have my expectations of sound quality set to high to jump down to the JL IB4. I'm getting the amps installed tomorrow, hoping they will let me try out the JL IB4 and see what it sounds like then return it if I don't like it.

Option 2:
Yes, you can take the while plate off, yes it looks like a pain in the butt, and yes I think you could have a small box built in that void to mount the sub on. This is what I really want to do and will be talking it over with the tech and sales guy tomorrow. The bigger issue for me right now would be the cost to do this because the fiberglass route is wayyyy to expensive and I don't have the time to do it myself.

Option 3:
Build a cool box for my JL 10W3 back firing in the hatch below the rear tower brace in the back. This wouldn't take up to much space and would look sweet, but again would not keep the factory look that I'm really going for.

Hopefully I will have a better update on my plan of action after tomorrow. Thoughts???

 

I just think it would be so much cleaner to use the current void. I know that there are challenges but I want it to look clean as well as sound clean.

 

FWIW, I can't recall hearing anything positive about free-air subs, including the JL. They'll never be anywhere near as good as a sealed sub. And the W0 sucks. Yes I've heard it a bunch of times, I love JL, but the W0 is as bargain basement as a Kraco sub.

If I were you, I would do option #2, or, just thoroughly seal the whole void w/ foam and silicone and you shouldn't need a separate box.

Just some suggestions...

 

OH YEAH! That reminds me. There is "spray foam" that plumbers use to seal cracks and they sell it at home depot. There are different kinds and I have used the stuff that dries DENSE. It works super well and is my OFFICIAL solution for my car.

I used it in my engine compartement of my 280, and it dries hard and sticks well. You can form it with an exacto afterwards too!

 

Hey rpgonzalez any idea what that stuff is called? Yep, option 2 is my plan at this point, will have to research more as to building box or using the foam stuff...just not sure what all this stuff is called and where you get it???

 

I think the best route is to mount a 10" sub in the stock compartment. It is stealth and also it has plenty of space for a decent sub that needs lots of space requirement. Now the hard question is, which brand of sub to put in there?? NIZL, any recommendation other than W7? hehe..

btw, I only have 300Wattx1ch.@4ohm to work with, my old phoenix gold amp.

 

I think it's called Great Stuff in a red can. There are competing products available too.

--
Jeff

 

I would go with either the JL 10W6v2 or the Illusion Audio ND-10.

I just heard the 10W6v2 again today and it sounded really good, even in a tiny box. Mounting depth is 6.9". I think it would be a really good fit.

The other alternative, the ND-10, I have not heard personally. But everyone on CAF raves about it, and it's super-shallow and lightweight.

Both are around $300. Let us know what you decide!

 

How much different is a 10w6 v2 than a 10w0? I know the w0 is their wimpy sub, but I have a almost brand new one lying around. I'm trying to decide if its worth buying a w6. I'll have about 500 watts RMS for it from a Butler Tube Driver amp.

 

Hmm...I think I have asked you this before..what about Eclipse subwoofer? the one with aluminum cone? How is that compare to 10W6? Thanks.

 

Thanks Jeffw! Would you use the Great Stuff to fill the whole void besides the space needed for the sub. How would you then define the enclosure for the sub?

 

get the foam stuff at home depot. i may even do a thin layer all in the inside....but that may turn out shityy. Ill have to experiment...

 

We definitely need to isolate that sub enclosure because all those openings will cause a problem.

Sure free air is good, but the airflow and bass travelling through the openings might cause parts of the car to rattle over time.

It would be nice to fit a thick, sealed wooden box for the sub enclosure in such a way we can get warm deep bass sound without the rattle.

 

That stuffs called two-part foam, or structural foam, and it has a ton of uses. The stuff from Home Depot is actually the real crappy basic stuff, they sell it in different weights and densities. When I worked at my old garage alot of SCCA racers used it to stiffen their cars by filling any empty voids in the body with this stuff, makes a big difierence in rigidity. http://www.cockeyed.com/inside/foam/foam.html
heres a silly site to show what this stuff look like like