Its time,
im running my z with a good sized system as my daily driver but now im going to build it up so i can remove my system easily for track use and also take advantage of moving the battery.

Heres what im working with

2 10" jl w6's with large amp and cap in a jl stealh box "mounted under rear strut"
to easily remove this you must do two things that im aware of,
must drill with a hole saw in the glove box cubby "behind pass. seat"

removing these subs will help me out for a track day

My amps are mounted in the rear cubby behind the Drivers seat where the
stock sub used to be. these can all ready be removed easily-


Now for the battery relocate-

Ive done my research and now know that when buying a light weight battery
they dont work well with a car that has a system.
My system is allready backed up by my ground wire kit and a 2 farad capacitor.

The trick is to use a braille battery, after reading up on them they are very very light and work the best. unfortunatly it is said that 2 braille batteries are necessary if you have a system.


Heres what I want to do -

-Ive allready removed my spare tire and i have roadside assistance so i dont care about driving without it, these 2 batteries will be mounted in the spare tire location.

-I want to take my heavy *** battery out the front of the car to save weight in the front before i corner balance it with new coilovers.

-I want to run the -perfect- size guage cable to the rear and split two sets of new terminals for each of the braille batteries.

Heres my questions -

- whats the perfect gauge wire to use ?

-how do i run the wires so one battery can be removed when i remove the system, and one battery can run the car during track days?

- How do i mount the batteries in the spare so the rear trunk plastic that holds up the trunk mat will not fall down from my spare being gone?

-Can i mount these batteries sideways with some type of cover that will hold up the trunk mat?

-Where should i start looking when it comes to getting the hardware for the cable tie downs and terminals?

 

the caps i think are complete waste

if you use a stinger sp 680 you can mount it vertical or sideways
not sure if you can with the braille stinger 680 bring mounting sleeves

i use 1 stinger 1000 up front and 4 stinger 680's in the hatch the trunk floor is flat when you strip out the spare and all the styrofoam

i use 6 runs of 0 awg wire ( 3 - ) & ( 3 + )

i am using roughly 2500 watts at the moment , if you tell me how many amps you run, how many watts they are, and what the fusing is on them i can suggest what awg you should use and how many runs

 

Moving the battery to the rear is a good idea since it provides better weight distribution and the result is a better handling car.

RE> - whats the perfect gauge wire to use ?
The rear-engine Porsches have dual batteries in the front, and some models from BMW mount the battery in the rear. Check the wiring specifications for these cars for the best gauge wire to use.

RE> -how do i run the wires so one battery can be removed when i remove the system, and one battery can run the car during track days?
You need a battery management module. The module allows you to run battery 1 or battery 2, or both batteries together. Off-roaders use this to handle dual battery setups for their extra electrical requirements (electric winches, air compressors, etc.).

RE>- How do i mount the batteries in the spare so the rear trunk plastic that holds up the trunk mat will not fall down from my spare being gone?
Fabricate a custom strut-piece that supports the floor panel. Any A/V shop can do this.

RE>-Can i mount these batteries sideways with some type of cover that will hold up the trunk mat?
Do you mean on their sides instead of upright? If so… Yes, if they are dry cell batteries. No, if they are wet cell batteries.

RE>-Where should i start looking when it comes to getting the hardware for the cable tie downs and terminals?
Home Depot,… Menards… any store selling hardware and electrical parts

--Spike

 

350zspl 6 runs of 0 gauge for 2500watts just curious what r you running

 

digital design W6.5" mid bass
digital design dda 5.25" german midrange
cdt drt 26 tweeters
cdt 560i crossovers
digital design 9515G subwoofer
wrangler 200 amp alt
stinger hpm 0 awg ( 6 runs )
stinger interconnects
pac LC1
sundown saz 2000 mono @1 ohm
sundown sax 125.2 2 ch @ 2 ohm
72 square feet stinger roadkill deadner
stinger sp 1000 under hood
stinger sp 680 x 4 in hatch
alpine 9886 head unit
3.25 net ported at 40 hertz
driver and port up

149 sealed up termlab
159 outlaw audiocontrol

 

Nice! Pics please!

 

my wheels should arrive toward end of month

no camera

when they come i will take fresh shots of car and it will include audio, with my frineds camera

he is about 20 miles from me

tires are 100 flat no thread

can't really drive it until i install the new rims and tires to get to camera