Tweeter Mounting / Diamond Audio
I am a TOTAL newbie when it comes to car audio (but I have been reading all the tutorials on DIY Installs for the 350z for the past week and a half or so). I am hoping someone can help with the following question.
Is it possible to
- remove the sail panel
- remove the current stock tweeter within the sail panel (leaving an empty hole at this point)
- dremel the tweeter hole to be a little larger (large enough to fit an aftermarket tweeter)
- place some type of glue / adhesive (if so what should I use) on the inside of the sail panel to hold the aftermarket tweeter in place
- then just put it all back together.
So, that was the first question - the next question is more of an opinion -
Has anyone had any experiences with the Diamond Audio Aluminum Tweeter. I do like crisp highs but if the Diamond Audio tweeter is not designed properly, it may distort and sound harsh.
Thanks
Is it possible to
- remove the sail panel
- remove the current stock tweeter within the sail panel (leaving an empty hole at this point)
- dremel the tweeter hole to be a little larger (large enough to fit an aftermarket tweeter)
- place some type of glue / adhesive (if so what should I use) on the inside of the sail panel to hold the aftermarket tweeter in place
- then just put it all back together.
So, that was the first question - the next question is more of an opinion -
Has anyone had any experiences with the Diamond Audio Aluminum Tweeter. I do like crisp highs but if the Diamond Audio tweeter is not designed properly, it may distort and sound harsh.
Thanks
For the first question, yes it is possible to remove the sail panel on the door... remove the door panel and the little sail panel pops off without unscrewing anything(very easy)... Dpending on how big the tweeter is, you can use the little bracket holding on the stock tweeter(the bracket only has two screw holding it on)... If you want to use some kind of adhesive, I would suggest "GOOP", you can buy it at the Homes Depot(it comes in a purple toothpaste-like tube), or you can use Gorilla Glue... Just be careful when dremeling, because if you go too low, the door panel might be in the way when you put it back on..
As for the second Q, I've only heard a component set of diamond audio's once and I didnt like it... However, he only had them hooked up directly to the stereo without an amp...
As for the second Q, I've only heard a component set of diamond audio's once and I didnt like it... However, he only had them hooked up directly to the stereo without an amp...
For the first question, yes it is possible to remove the sail panel on the door... remove the door panel and the little sail panel pops off without unscrewing anything(very easy)... Dpending on how big the tweeter is, you can use the little bracket holding on the stock tweeter(the bracket only has two screw holding it on)... If you want to use some kind of adhesive, I would suggest "GOOP", you can buy it at the Homes Depot(it comes in a purple toothpaste-like tube), or you can use Gorilla Glue... Just be careful when dremeling, because if you go too low, the door panel might be in the way when you put it back on..
As for the second Q, I've only heard a component set of diamond audio's once and I didnt like it... However, he only had them hooked up directly to the stereo without an amp...
As for the second Q, I've only heard a component set of diamond audio's once and I didnt like it... However, he only had them hooked up directly to the stereo without an amp...
Also, if anyone else has heard the diamond audio aluminum tweeters...please feel free to provide your opinions...
I had the Diamond Audio Hex S600 speakers and enjoyed them although a silk cone sounds better to me-- less harsh.
And yes you should be able to get a 1" in there without modification-- I have 1" in mine right now.
And yes you should be able to get a 1" in there without modification-- I have 1" in mine right now.
the HEX...that is almost the top of the line Diamond Audio's right???...that might be a little more baller than I am willing to do at the moment...any opinions on how good the D3 components are...or should I just go with another brand in the same price range...thanks...
I used to work for a Diamond Audio dealer a few years ago. I had a set of the Aluminum tweets in my car. They were definitely crisp and sharp. I wouldn't say they distorted much, but they were just too harsh for my liking. I switched them out for the silk tweeters.
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crap...i already jumped the gun on the D363.5...i guess i will give it a try and switch them out as well if they end up being too harsh...thanks though...
Trust me on this suggestion, you won't need a rear speaker set if you have enough clean power to your front component set. I know these are only rated @ 60w RMS but I had 200w going to each channel and it really brought the sound out beautifully. Just be careful with your crossovers and your gains, etc. Possibly let a shop do the tuning if it's your first time, because a good tune can be the difference in something that sounds like it's from Wal Mart or something that sounds like a small slice of Heaven :P
Well I've never used a Soundstream amp myself, I do know the Diamond Audio amp will put out a true, clean 100w per channel, not sure about the Soundstream. I've seen some people say they are decent budget amps though. The good thing is if you need to you can bridge the 2 channels to get 230w x 2 which is what I would personally try. Just make sure when you do so that you don't have them full blast so they don't blow when you're first testing them.
Trust me on this suggestion, you won't need a rear speaker set if you have enough clean power to your front component set. I know these are only rated @ 60w RMS but I had 200w going to each channel and it really brought the sound out beautifully. Just be careful with your crossovers and your gains, etc. Possibly let a shop do the tuning if it's your first time, because a good tune can be the difference in something that sounds like it's from Wal Mart or something that sounds like a small slice of Heaven :P
Trust me on this suggestion, you won't need a rear speaker set if you have enough clean power to your front component set. I know these are only rated @ 60w RMS but I had 200w going to each channel and it really brought the sound out beautifully. Just be careful with your crossovers and your gains, etc. Possibly let a shop do the tuning if it's your first time, because a good tune can be the difference in something that sounds like it's from Wal Mart or something that sounds like a small slice of Heaven :P
I think i agree with you in terms of tuning the system as well...i might just install everything...and then have a shop perform the tuning with the right equipment...
i will keep the bridging in mind...230w for a 60w seems excessive...but if you had good sound with 200w...i might be okay...i guess i will give the 70w a try and if it sounds "meh"...then i will bridge the 2 channels...
thanks for the info...well appreciated...
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