need help with amp sizes!!
#1
need help with amp sizes!!
hey guys.. just lookin for some help with amp sizes. i have a 12" kicker L7 thats 1500watt. need a mono amp (or 2 channel bridged??) to power it. what size amp should i be looking at??
#2
You need way more information for anyone to give you correct advice. First what impedence is the woofer, also is it a DVC or SVC. It would also help to know the actual RMS power handling not the Max power handling as the 1500 watts would indicate.
#3
mono for your sub not 2 ch
mono is more efficient than 2 ch ab amp, takes less current from your electrical to run a mono
if your sub is 750 watts rms than you need a mono amp that provides 750 watts rms x 1 channel as it will be mono
if your sub is 1500 watt rms than you need a mono amp that provides 1500 watts x 1 channel as it will be mono
and we are speaking in terms of rms ratings not peak ratings where you sub and amp are concerned
lastly is you sub a DVC or SVC and what ohm
mono is more efficient than 2 ch ab amp, takes less current from your electrical to run a mono
if your sub is 750 watts rms than you need a mono amp that provides 750 watts rms x 1 channel as it will be mono
if your sub is 1500 watt rms than you need a mono amp that provides 1500 watts x 1 channel as it will be mono
and we are speaking in terms of rms ratings not peak ratings where you sub and amp are concerned
lastly is you sub a DVC or SVC and what ohm
#5
although allthe above are correct, it can become far more complicated than need be very quickly.
I started w car audio 20 years ago... and now i detest dealing w it.. haha. I just want to play the music , set it and forget it.
So with that being said.. i can tell you I will be installing a JL 13TW5 next week in place of my w7s.. and i run 2 gauge wire, fantasticly prepared ground points, a 10 farad Stinger cap bank, and an Alpine D Class mono 1000.1 amp along w a very powerful 4 cha amp, the Alpine 150.4.
That being said, more power doesnt add much more to the sound level, and can blow voice coils.
Id stay around a good solid 600 watt amp.. and again am partial to Alpine although there are other fantastic amps out there.
Whats your price limit? And are you planning on ignoring your electrical requirements or are you going to make sure to take care of it correctly?
just some more food for thought. I bought my 1000.1 for about 400 dollars i think, at a very good deal.
I started w car audio 20 years ago... and now i detest dealing w it.. haha. I just want to play the music , set it and forget it.
So with that being said.. i can tell you I will be installing a JL 13TW5 next week in place of my w7s.. and i run 2 gauge wire, fantasticly prepared ground points, a 10 farad Stinger cap bank, and an Alpine D Class mono 1000.1 amp along w a very powerful 4 cha amp, the Alpine 150.4.
That being said, more power doesnt add much more to the sound level, and can blow voice coils.
Id stay around a good solid 600 watt amp.. and again am partial to Alpine although there are other fantastic amps out there.
Whats your price limit? And are you planning on ignoring your electrical requirements or are you going to make sure to take care of it correctly?
just some more food for thought. I bought my 1000.1 for about 400 dollars i think, at a very good deal.
#6
#7
http://www.millionbuy.com/pakstax20001d.html
any good?? ive used power acoustik before and they're not bad
any good?? ive used power acoustik before and they're not bad
Trending Topics
#8
no it is not worth $130
what is that max you wanna pay shipped , and take a look at the sub and tell me if it is 2 ohm sub or a 4 ohm sub, and if you can't tell me than tell me the model # and i will tell you
what is that max you wanna pay shipped , and take a look at the sub and tell me if it is 2 ohm sub or a 4 ohm sub, and if you can't tell me than tell me the model # and i will tell you
#9
When buying your amp , make sure that it is CEA-2006 compliant . That way you know it's putting out the power that it says it is . I get a chuckle when I see amplifiers that say 1000 or 2000 watts on them , but only have one 30 amp or two 20 amp fuses in them . Whats even funnier is that people actually buy them .
#10
#12
When buying your amp , make sure that it is CEA-2006 compliant . That way you know it's putting out the power that it says it is . I get a chuckle when I see amplifiers that say 1000 or 2000 watts on them , but only have one 30 amp or two 20 amp fuses in them . Whats even funnier is that people actually buy them .
#13
It is impossible for an amplifier to put out 1000 watts RMS of power , while only drawing 30-40 amps of current . A true 1000 watt Rms amplifier would have to have anywhere from 90-120 amps of fusing . Amplifier companys can put any inflated power numbers that they want on their amps . That is why the good Companys pay extra to get their amps tested by the Consumer Electronics Association(CEA). If an amp is CEA-2006 compliant , that means it has been tested for rated RMS power and Signal To Noise Ratio . Look for the CEA-2006 logo on the amplifiers box . That way your getting an amplifer that will put out the numbers that it says it will .
#14
It is impossible for an amplifier to put out 1000 watts RMS of power , while only drawing 30-40 amps of current . A true 1000 watt Rms amplifier would have to have anywhere from 90-120 amps of fusing . Amplifier companys can put any inflated power numbers that they want on their amps . That is why the good Companys pay extra to get their amps tested by the Consumer Electronics Association(CEA). If an amp is CEA-2006 compliant , that means it has been tested for rated RMS power and Signal To Noise Ratio . Look for the CEA-2006 logo on the amplifiers box . That way your getting an amplifer that will put out the numbers that it says it will .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post