Roadster DIY Custom Chopped, Glassed and Plexi'ed Audio
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Roadster DIY Custom Chopped, Glassed and Plexi'ed Audio
Hopefully this thread will not be a record of my fail. 
The plan
----------
Ok, so i tried the single 10" subwoofer behind the driver seat in a sealed enclosure, and it just wasn't enough for me while rolling down the interstate with the top down. Since I was having a custom rollbar welded in with welded receivers for the rest of the bolt in cage installed in my roadster, I realized that I needed to plan for a different approach to the body panels that would allow me to still get the panels in and out of the car for maintenance around the cage, but would also improve audio in the car for a combination of top down, top up, normal, and highway driving. I also want to be able to crank Rap/HipHop up to levels that will convince Harley riders to get out of my way on Tail of the Dragon rides.
Metal behind the seats has to go
-------------------------------------
I'm going to cut out the sheet metal behind the seats that houses the factory sub location, glove box, and rear speakers. I plan to build a custom box and amp rack that is a combination of mdf, plexi, and fiberglass. That way, when the tonneau is open, you can see through the plexi into the back side of the speaker boxes and see the amps,cabling, and rear of speakers (most likely illuminated via LED inside the box itself. NOTE: For this, I'm using a lot of information from the thread where a member installed a G35 rear seat into his Z coupe by cutting out the same metal. In the roadster, some of that space is necessary for the top, but I'll be using the rest of it for the audio equipment and sub boxes. I also have to leave some portions of the metal because they are used by the clamps on the underside of the tonneau to secure it when closed. Depending on the rigidity of the latch mechanisms after modifications, I may have my welder reinforce them with some plate/bar in that area.
The areas indicated in red are what is being taken out. Green indicates the latches for the tonneau cover which will stay in place and be welded with new metal that attaches them to the OEM hoop behind the seats as opposed to being supported by the sheet metal boxing.
Initially, I was thinking of leaving the center upright piece as shown in this pic, but I may cut it all out now:
You can see that I've already started cutting out the boxing in this pic:
You can see from the top view what will be cut out:
Custom fiberglass behind seats
-----------------------------------
Behind the seats, I'll have custom black fiberglass following the new lines of the cage, harness bar, etc. and there will be a 12" sealed enclosure sub behind each seat. It will not be a single, seemless piece, because I want everything to still be servicable (access to fuel pump, etc). I'm considering (but not sold on) a left and right speaker molded behind each seat right above each sub and at each headrest for a "headphones" effect, which would be nice during top down, high speed driving. I think that I'll take some pictures and lay my ideas out in photoshop before I make the final decision. I'm considering doing something "different" with the space between the seats also (since I hate the small console with cupholders). Just not sure yet - maybe a mount for my helmet - maybe a place for a midbass driver? I'm also considering molding the center console so that my arm doesn't accidentally turn on the heated seat switches. Possibly also make it more comfortable by forming to the natural position of my arm when cruising in 6th and to have some molding to support wrist during active shifting (call me lazy already).
A really basic mock up of the back wall:
Two mock ups showing what the new fiberglass will look like behind the seats with the "headphone" style left & right speakers behind headrests:
Custom fiberglass kick & door pods
----------------------------------------
I'm considering custom fiberglass pods in the front kicks as well. This space is already blocked off from foot use by the a pillar bars for the cage, so I have plenty of space to work with there. Also, maybe a custom fiberglass door pod for a mid-bass driver in the stock door speaker location as well.
Dash/Controls
----------------
The car already has a hardwired Verizon 4G hotspot installed for Internet access for passengers' Wifi devices. I'm considering replacing the factory double din with a flush mount Galaxy Android tablet for Radio, Pandora, MP3, Navigation, movies, etc. instead of a standard head unit. I will have my laptop(solid state drive) docked stealthily with osiris, cipher, and other Windows software not available on the Android platform. I can access the laptop's screen remotely on the in dash tablet via an icon. That way, I can also have access to a full collection of my MP3's, movies, etc. instead of being limited to the storage and capabilities of the tablet itself.
Prep & Process
-----------------
Deadening will be applied, etc. and since this is a DIY, it will go through several stages of ripped apart, test fit, ghetto/unfinished, and finished. I just wanted to record the "build" process in this thread. I'll try to include pictures and updates throughout the process. Please don't think that just because the latest pic is of uncovered mdf or unpainted fiberglass, that it is going to stay that way.
It's a process. Also, specific speakers will be chosen once the boxes have been constructed and the effective airspace, mounting depths, etc. can be determined. Amplifiers will be chosen after that to meet the power requirements.
Goal = Fun
-------------
Finally, I'm not building this to be a show car, to impress others, or to have competition level sound quality - it's to have fun during the DIY process and to have fun enjoying it once it's in.
The plan
----------
Ok, so i tried the single 10" subwoofer behind the driver seat in a sealed enclosure, and it just wasn't enough for me while rolling down the interstate with the top down. Since I was having a custom rollbar welded in with welded receivers for the rest of the bolt in cage installed in my roadster, I realized that I needed to plan for a different approach to the body panels that would allow me to still get the panels in and out of the car for maintenance around the cage, but would also improve audio in the car for a combination of top down, top up, normal, and highway driving. I also want to be able to crank Rap/HipHop up to levels that will convince Harley riders to get out of my way on Tail of the Dragon rides.
Metal behind the seats has to go
-------------------------------------
I'm going to cut out the sheet metal behind the seats that houses the factory sub location, glove box, and rear speakers. I plan to build a custom box and amp rack that is a combination of mdf, plexi, and fiberglass. That way, when the tonneau is open, you can see through the plexi into the back side of the speaker boxes and see the amps,cabling, and rear of speakers (most likely illuminated via LED inside the box itself. NOTE: For this, I'm using a lot of information from the thread where a member installed a G35 rear seat into his Z coupe by cutting out the same metal. In the roadster, some of that space is necessary for the top, but I'll be using the rest of it for the audio equipment and sub boxes. I also have to leave some portions of the metal because they are used by the clamps on the underside of the tonneau to secure it when closed. Depending on the rigidity of the latch mechanisms after modifications, I may have my welder reinforce them with some plate/bar in that area.
The areas indicated in red are what is being taken out. Green indicates the latches for the tonneau cover which will stay in place and be welded with new metal that attaches them to the OEM hoop behind the seats as opposed to being supported by the sheet metal boxing.
Initially, I was thinking of leaving the center upright piece as shown in this pic, but I may cut it all out now:
You can see that I've already started cutting out the boxing in this pic:
You can see from the top view what will be cut out:
Custom fiberglass behind seats
-----------------------------------
Behind the seats, I'll have custom black fiberglass following the new lines of the cage, harness bar, etc. and there will be a 12" sealed enclosure sub behind each seat. It will not be a single, seemless piece, because I want everything to still be servicable (access to fuel pump, etc). I'm considering (but not sold on) a left and right speaker molded behind each seat right above each sub and at each headrest for a "headphones" effect, which would be nice during top down, high speed driving. I think that I'll take some pictures and lay my ideas out in photoshop before I make the final decision. I'm considering doing something "different" with the space between the seats also (since I hate the small console with cupholders). Just not sure yet - maybe a mount for my helmet - maybe a place for a midbass driver? I'm also considering molding the center console so that my arm doesn't accidentally turn on the heated seat switches. Possibly also make it more comfortable by forming to the natural position of my arm when cruising in 6th and to have some molding to support wrist during active shifting (call me lazy already).
A really basic mock up of the back wall:
Two mock ups showing what the new fiberglass will look like behind the seats with the "headphone" style left & right speakers behind headrests:
Custom fiberglass kick & door pods
----------------------------------------
I'm considering custom fiberglass pods in the front kicks as well. This space is already blocked off from foot use by the a pillar bars for the cage, so I have plenty of space to work with there. Also, maybe a custom fiberglass door pod for a mid-bass driver in the stock door speaker location as well.
Dash/Controls
----------------
The car already has a hardwired Verizon 4G hotspot installed for Internet access for passengers' Wifi devices. I'm considering replacing the factory double din with a flush mount Galaxy Android tablet for Radio, Pandora, MP3, Navigation, movies, etc. instead of a standard head unit. I will have my laptop(solid state drive) docked stealthily with osiris, cipher, and other Windows software not available on the Android platform. I can access the laptop's screen remotely on the in dash tablet via an icon. That way, I can also have access to a full collection of my MP3's, movies, etc. instead of being limited to the storage and capabilities of the tablet itself.
Prep & Process
-----------------
Deadening will be applied, etc. and since this is a DIY, it will go through several stages of ripped apart, test fit, ghetto/unfinished, and finished. I just wanted to record the "build" process in this thread. I'll try to include pictures and updates throughout the process. Please don't think that just because the latest pic is of uncovered mdf or unpainted fiberglass, that it is going to stay that way.
It's a process. Also, specific speakers will be chosen once the boxes have been constructed and the effective airspace, mounting depths, etc. can be determined. Amplifiers will be chosen after that to meet the power requirements.Goal = Fun
-------------
Finally, I'm not building this to be a show car, to impress others, or to have competition level sound quality - it's to have fun during the DIY process and to have fun enjoying it once it's in.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; Jun 11, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
Props to the diy. it may not fit all of our taste at the end of the day. but hey! its not our car and you can say I DID IT that means alot to me. keep the diy up bro!
in for pics!
in for pics!
Vendor - Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
and at highway speeds with the top down it doesnt really affect the sound quality. Just turn it up a tad more to compensate for the wind and road noise at that speed, just like any other normal car with the windows down.
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
I'll also take some pics as I cut out the metal in the rear, etc.
I'll insert some pics into the original post so that it isn't a term paper worth of just text.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
I'm editing the pictures today, so I should have some pics up later.
That metal that hold the factory bose that you plan on cutting doesnt have any structure i beleive. I actually think it bolts in. not totaly sure tho. I do know that you wont have a issue with your roof falling in if you cut/trim it lmao Where youd have issues would be strut towers/unisides/floor but sheetmetal is exactly what it sounds like
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
That metal that hold the factory bose that you plan on cutting doesnt have any structure i beleive. I actually think it bolts in. not totaly sure tho. I do know that you wont have a issue with your roof falling in if you cut/trim it lmao Where youd have issues would be strut towers/unisides/floor but sheetmetal is exactly what it sounds like
Also, instead of the factory "hoops" on either side of the windscreen, Ill be fabricating new fiberglass scoops that extend the humps on the tonneau all the way forward. They won't be attached to the tonneau, but will maintain the lines of the tonneau. This is where the speakers for behind the headrest will be located.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Ok, so I'm starting to "mock up" the headrest speakers and the new fiberglass humps. This will be fiberglass w/ bondo and then painted black. If I end up getting a carbon fiber hood & tonneau, I considering having Justin@RedlineDesign wrap the fiberglass sections with a carbon fiber vinyl or DiNoc to tie it all in together.
Some pics to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about with the custom humps and headrest speakers. Also, the headrest speakers will have their own separate volume ****, because they are just intended for top down, high speed use. That way, they won't throw off my stage/imaging during normal listening.
Speakers are tucked in a spot that makes them easy to get to for maintenance, but stable and out of the way of other things:
You won't even be able to see the fronts of the speakers when the seats are in position:
They sit pretty flush, so there is plenty of room for the fiberglass facing:
Just another aspect of how they will be positioned:
Terminals are mounted on angle towards the inside, so they will be easy to get to for connect/disconnect:
Ok, yes folks - this looks ghetto - but I'm just getting an idea of the curves and location of the new fiberglass humps (it doesn't stay there):
A better view of the curves/lines of the planned new humps:
The humps will have a face - obviously not shown here - I'm just getting an idea of the curved portion:
Depending on whether I have the welder put another angled downtube from the top of the OEM hoops to the back, I may create a "scoop" to allow air to flow through the middle of the hoop and to the underneath portion of the tonneau. That's where my amps will be located, so I'm thinking that any additional path for air to flow is a good thing. Not sure on the scoop design yet, but it will essentially just be a molded opening in the fiberglass facing:
Some pics to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about with the custom humps and headrest speakers. Also, the headrest speakers will have their own separate volume ****, because they are just intended for top down, high speed use. That way, they won't throw off my stage/imaging during normal listening.
Speakers are tucked in a spot that makes them easy to get to for maintenance, but stable and out of the way of other things:
You won't even be able to see the fronts of the speakers when the seats are in position:
They sit pretty flush, so there is plenty of room for the fiberglass facing:
Just another aspect of how they will be positioned:
Terminals are mounted on angle towards the inside, so they will be easy to get to for connect/disconnect:
Ok, yes folks - this looks ghetto - but I'm just getting an idea of the curves and location of the new fiberglass humps (it doesn't stay there):
A better view of the curves/lines of the planned new humps:
The humps will have a face - obviously not shown here - I'm just getting an idea of the curved portion:
Depending on whether I have the welder put another angled downtube from the top of the OEM hoops to the back, I may create a "scoop" to allow air to flow through the middle of the hoop and to the underneath portion of the tonneau. That's where my amps will be located, so I'm thinking that any additional path for air to flow is a good thing. Not sure on the scoop design yet, but it will essentially just be a molded opening in the fiberglass facing:
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
These are the two guys that led the way and motivated me to tackle this project on my own:
Jackson0927 - Ripped out the metal to add a back seat in his coupe
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...or-advice.html
SQBassHead - Ripped out the metal to put a large speaker box in his coupe
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...dio-build.html
They both had coupes and didn't have to worry with the logistics of the latches for the hood and the space that the top takes up, so my build won't be a repeat of their projects. I think that mine will be the first roadster to tackle this for an audio install. I'm sure that some of the track roadsters have stripped this same area, so if anyone knows of a roadster owner that has led the way and may have pointers/suggestions, let me know.
Jackson0927 - Ripped out the metal to add a back seat in his coupe
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...or-advice.html
SQBassHead - Ripped out the metal to put a large speaker box in his coupe
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-v...dio-build.html
They both had coupes and didn't have to worry with the logistics of the latches for the hood and the space that the top takes up, so my build won't be a repeat of their projects. I think that mine will be the first roadster to tackle this for an audio install. I'm sure that some of the track roadsters have stripped this same area, so if anyone knows of a roadster owner that has led the way and may have pointers/suggestions, let me know.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Ok, I have some updated pics of my mockup:
I decided to use some cardstock and tape to identify just how much area the new boxes/equipment could take up in the space back there and see what the new scoop/bump would look like:
Another view (yes it looks ghetto), I can operate the top and make sure everything clears, etc:
It looks like there will be plenty of room to have a scoop for airflow to keep the amps cool:
I decided to use some cardstock and tape to identify just how much area the new boxes/equipment could take up in the space back there and see what the new scoop/bump would look like:
Another view (yes it looks ghetto), I can operate the top and make sure everything clears, etc:
It looks like there will be plenty of room to have a scoop for airflow to keep the amps cool:
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
I now have the passenger side completely cut out and I've begin putting down the dynamat extreme. I'm amazed at how much space there really is back there, even once the top is stowed and the tonneau closed.
You can see that I will be covering everything with dynamat extreme first (I plan to add carpet/upholstery for any areas that aren't fiberglassed too)
A lot of metal is gone now:
This shot was hard to get from above - I'm standing on top of my rollcage (sure wish someone had a picture of me doing that - I'm sure my neighbors thought that I was crazy):
You can see that I will be covering everything with dynamat extreme first (I plan to add carpet/upholstery for any areas that aren't fiberglassed too)
A lot of metal is gone now:
This shot was hard to get from above - I'm standing on top of my rollcage (sure wish someone had a picture of me doing that - I'm sure my neighbors thought that I was crazy):