i have been trying to figure out what amps i need for my budget build please help me out. ive been thinking of this set up for a while just need to know the amps i can wire like its my job but when it comes to amps i have no fricken clue.
and now that my performance goals and exterior goals are almost done its time to do audio.
zenclousures under the strut bar box 2 10" holes
2- alpine type R 10"

door speakers Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Type R Car Component Speaker 330w
rear speakers Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Type R Car Component Speaker 330w
specs for the door and rear speakers power range: 8-110 watts RMS (330 watts peak power).


so what amps would you recommend for this

-thank you

 

if your looking into amping all those, its gonna be quite a bit of money. For your subs you want either a 2 channel (a separate channel for each sub) or a mono block (wire both subs to the same amp). It won't really make a difference. Your gonna want to look for an amp that puts out a minimum of 800 RMS to power BOTH of your subs. I would recomend one that puts out 1000 RMS however.

For the door speakers your gonna want a 4 channel amp, with between 200 - 400 watt RMS output, depending on how loud you want them. My suggestion to be cheaper though would be to get a two channel, 200 RMS amp and amp the font two speakers, and power your rear two from the headunit. The headunit will be able to send more power to the back ones since its only powering two speakers, and the front matter the most anyways.

 

Look into Alpine's PDX series of amplifiers if you want decent quality with the same brand throughout your system.

If you're willing to mix it up there is a lot of brands out there that cost less than the mainstream brands and have the same or better quality.

I run one 10" Alpine Type R in the under-strut-bar enclosure powered by an Alpine PDX 600. You would be happy with the two 10" Type R's and a PDX 1000.

Look into Audioque, Sundown, Elemental Designs, and others for quality stuff. Once you start researching these you will run into other brands as well.

I'm always on a budget so I look at craigslist for used stuff and sniff out great deals. I see something I like, research it, and then contact the seller. Got my 10" Type R for a ridiculous $20 and my PDX 600 for $100(been using this combo for over a year with no problems).

Troll some car audio forums for a ton of good info.

 

ok thx i just needed some basics on amps . i picked out alpine type r a while ago and everyone i asked told be they would hit real hard.

 

SOUNDS LIKE YOURE ON A REASONABLE BUDGET.


Ive been in the audio biz for a LOOOOOONG time.
I only reccomend what i know works.

The speakers you are considering for the doors are decnt but are not ridiculous quality...
I would highly look into a differnt subwoofer tho.
The reason being is that the impedance of those subs are dual 2 ohm vcs.. that means they are either 1 ohm speakers or 4 ohm.. why ALpine did this i have no clue.

Id HIIIGHLY reccomend the PDX 5 channel amplifier as its a great product, can be had for 375 on ebay new, and is exactly the size of a pack of printer paper... fits right under a seat.. DONE.

Also its power requirements from your Z will be minimal as long as a good sanded to metal ground is used and proper wiring is done.


That being said, its only going to want to see 2 ohms max on that sub channel or youre gonna get very hot.

I would fin other subwoofers such as JL audios as they offer better voice coil configurations and Ive had years of experience selling both products side by side.. JL crushes alpine at every step of the way for subs.

Possibly buy the 1 ten box and get a better sub?
Also , please know that the 2 10 box the fits just under the srut bar is made for shallow speakers.. those big type Rs will not fit unless you buy the Z enclosure box that fills the entire area under and in front of the strut bar w the amp rack built in.. I had one and had it cut for a 10w7...

Id run a set of JL Audio 10w3's and the pdx 5 channel and call it a day. Scouts honor.

 

if you go with two subs, youl want to request 8 ohm subs.
if you go w one, just get it in 4 ohm.

If they cant get you 8 ohm, its fine, just know that youll be running the hell out of the amp, use good wires.

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-10W3v3-...item27bc75eb2c

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-PDX-5-5-C...item43a83404e6

 

The Type R woofers were offered in 2 and 4 Ohm DVC configs, weren't they? Also... 2 1 Ohm woofers can be wired in series to create a 2 ohm load. Any decent Class D amp will be stable down to 2 ohms.

I've owned several Type E, Type S, and Type R subwoofers. I've ran all of them on Power Acoustik amps because PA amps have always treated me very well. I won't buy any Power Acoustik product other than their amps though...

Get us the actual part number from your woofer so we can tell you what amp would be a good match. You want your woofers to be the lowest ohms possible, to take advantage of the power output from your amplifier. Just make sure your amp can handle the load at whatever ohms your woofers are wired at. The amp will get hotter at a lower ohm load, but I've ran even cheap amps on 2 ohm loads and beat the CRAP out of them, in a trunk, with no problem. In Arizona. In the summer.

 

your lucky then Senor Mike. You know the deal, you can get bass, and bass is bass.. but then theres BASS.. high dampening factor amps, etc.. and it becomes far more musical, more percussive.. just better. Runs cleaner, cooler. etc etc. Im just a fan of "you surely do get what you pay for" in the audio world personally .

The subs he wants to run wont fit in the box hes looking at tho anyways, far too deep, by about an inch id say...ive owned that box too..

I run the PDX in my car now.. but the big giant ones. 1.100 and 4.150.
and 2 gauge wires
and a 10f cap..
all to run a jl 13 flat sub only.
Go big or go home, you know. haha.


OP, i swear man, get a few JLs and the 5 channel Alpine and call it a day, your stuff will never break down and your music will sound great, your car will stay light, and you can sell this stuff in a heartbeat later on down the road.

 

I actually have owned both of those PDX's and liked them quite a bit.

 

you can pm me if you would like some help. i would stay clear of the mainstream brands. also you can wire most quality mono amps to a .5ohm which will be fine after box rise. that is if you have d2 coils. also a decent amp a even a 2ohm load will power those subs just fine, since it doesn't seem your going for spl.

like i said pm me if you want some help.

 

Dude HUH?

That comment was literally loaded with incorrect information and other things that made zero sense whatsoever. Box rise? . Ill add my smile here so you know im trying to be friendly, but thats stilll just crazy talk man.

OP, please visit a local professional for a set up. Im sure it was with intention to help.. but its only half truths.

OP.. I dont mean to argue or sound like a d#ck, but I must mention that i was an MECP master certified installer and ran a large high end home and car audio video business before my more lucrative career in banking. I knew what i was doing, what wouldnt create a customer return or warranty situation, whad what performed. What was good, how to put it in correctly. Im sure thats what you wanted in this thread, expert opinion versus what your buddy told you worked good. Thats what im trying to give ya bro. I am kind of reminded why i got OUT of that biz now.. everyone has an opinion, and thats fine, but some of this is based on physics.. and it just is what it is. Most people are incorrect..its a very self fulfilling prophecy type "sport". No fun.

Mono amps down to low loads.. sure, they can usually as a marketing tool, but its pointless.... its never a good idea, period.
you lose dampening factor immensley, you lose ability to dorectly control the movement of the cones, and sound quality suffers with things like group delay, back EMF,etc.
Current raises, heat shoots up, voltage drops, and everything gets hotter, dies faster, and kills your alternator exponentially faster, whether the amps built for it or not.


Series between voice coils is fine, always avoid series between woofers themselves.
Look up back EMF. One speaker will create inducted electricity and move the other speaker itself.


The Alpine Amps i reccomended are regulated class D Digital amps, they are well suited for sound and for the 350z.
They have a regulated powersupply to step up voltage internally away from the alternators demands
They can be had very cheaply on ebay with little fear of malfunction
They are very small and install friendly to the 350z.
They have high resale value and appeal.
They are highly musical and are assembled with the very best in circuit board components. ( I can get into the details around the Alps Company semi conductors and the Luxman corp circa 1986 turning into ALpine of America, but i wont aside from the fact a circuit board piece from china may cost 45 cents whereas the Alps part is of aerospace qualit and woud cost 5 dollars.. it adds up to a great but expensive product)

Buy quality gear
do NOT surpass your vehicles electrical system in any way or you will be dearly sorry.
Start small with good stuff and build as you go.
COntact box vendors to see what woofers fit. Do not over load your amps.
and most importantly :
FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DO CAR AUDIO FOR THEM.



RANT FINISHED< UNSUBD>> GOOD LUCK ALL>

 

i said running at a half ohm is possible. i didn't say do it, i through it out there as an option. he can just find a quality amp that does decent power at 2ohms. i did forget he is running a sealed enclosure so rise won't be a factor like ported.

you talk a big game bmccan: i would take zero advise from a guy who runs, capacitors and jl audio equipment and calls it going big. last thing the guy should do is go talk to some ignorant moron at a local shop. must of them don't have a clue what they are talking about. that is unless you have a very good, reputable shop around?

also sorry to clutter up your thread. quick word of advise to the op: ignore bmccan and find some people on a car audio specific site that can answer all your questions.