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Do I need Dynamat on doors with JL C2-650X's?

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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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Default Do I need Dynamat on doors with JL C2-650X's?

I just bought 4 6.5 JL C2-650X coaxial's at 110 bucks a pair. I just read a ton of posts on dynamat on the doors, but most guys seem to have more expensive amplified setups. I am using stock wiring for these door speakers and no amp, just running off my Pioneer.

1. Is it really necessary to dynamat my doors with this grade of speakers and no amp? I can understand for all the guys buying 500 dollar amped components, but just wondering if I really need it with these.

2. What about the behind the seat speakers, is it a good idea to dynamat that area?

Any help is appreciated.

Last edited by hellogoodbye; Aug 18, 2011 at 12:06 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 04:15 AM
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From: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
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no. its not. If you discover a resonant buzz, there are simple pads that can be placed on the door skin behind the speaker that cut the waves out.. they are not cheap, but they suffice.

I have not noticed this resonant buzz in mine at all.. and my door spekaers are very high powered. You should be fine.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I was thinking that too..

Although after posting this I saw dynamat offers the 10x10" patches that you just put on each speaker hole, and that seemed like a nice compromise (at least during 4am internet shopping it did), but it was cheaper to just buy the door kit with 4 12x36" strips the 4 patches, so I did that and I am going to cut 4 10x10 patches, and then I will have leftover.

Its sounds like from what you said maybe a 10x10'ish patch behind the speaker may be a good idea too, like behind the magnet?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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From: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
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its all over kill really.
its only use is to make panels heavier thusly lowering thier resonant frequencies of vibration and making them harder to vibrate too.. so some panel that made a hhhhhwaang hhhhwaang noise now only makes a bzzz bzzz noise and soaks up alot of energy to do so.
So having it in your doors, meh.. youd better have some sick @ss speakers in ther.. i have Bostons and CAS pods on 150 w rms ea and i dont have any hhhwang.

If you have no hhhwaang noise, dynamat is pointless smell and heavy. And expensive, although it does make your door feel like a tank/Porsche 911 door.

Sounds dumb but make the noise.. sound it out... do it.. DO IT..

Last edited by bmccann101; Aug 18, 2011 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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I agree with you on the doors, I'm just going to do the bare minimum and throw these 10x10 patches on each speaker, done. I will have a ton leftover which I may need when I put a sub in the back.

How about your rear speakers though, that area looks like it will rattle to me, did you put any speakers back there in your car and how did that turn out?
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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From: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
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doesnt rattle at all, i use Alpine SPRs and they are fairly bassey.

now the cubby woofer box that fits back there.. eesh, that rattles the hell out of things
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Thats surprising that the rear area holds up so well; good then.

I have read a lot of posts about that 10" opening, and yes that seems like a really bad move to mess with that area at all, total rattletrap apparently
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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From: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
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i posted all over in those threads, i went that route and yeah, it really is a rattle trap.
I ordered the spare tire box here for 1 jl flat 13tw5.
SHould be cool, throw my OEM carpet mat over it n be done.
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Old Aug 19, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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From: Orlando
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I would probably go with that setup if I didn't lose my spare, other than that stealth would be very nice... and a 13 JL would be nice too. Its amazing how deep that area is, they could almost leave the spare and fit a less deep version of that box I bet..

So even with that setup your not going to mess with any dynamat back there?
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