Maybe he will lend you some pictures?

 

zeruck: u may not believe me but i do. so **** off bro.

 

You are assuming a lot.

 

rouse, our engineers actually under rated the subwoofer as far as RMS goes. it's very conservatively rated. to everyone, yes he knows the owner. these are hand made with a double spider. This gives you greater power handling. apologies for the low quality resolution shots, they're from a droid cell phone.

 

I have the JL 10W7 in the zenclouser box. It hits hard as heck. But the best part of it is the clarity. That's what you pay for when you go JL. Alot of subs can be louder than JL, but those are all disstorted and sound horrible. I will not trust anything but. Plus the the longgevity (spelling??) is by far the best on the market.
Just my cents

 

donno bro my buddy had a 10w7 and it wasn't as clean bass as there w6 which i had before this cedarslink. and i thought the w6 was great but this sub blew all jl's out of the water. my set up it currently for sale though because i have decided to go more for performance than show.

 

It's not all about the sub the sub is the play back device. You have to factor in head unit, wires, and amp. My two 8's sound amazing, because I have a EXTREMELY clean amp and a great head unit with good Pre-amp outs. Different people, different set-ups, and different opinions.

 

exactly. i ran all these subs off of a jl 500/1v2. and a pioneer 4300dvd. and cedarslink wiring which is probably better than any other wiring out there. there 4 gauge makes other 4 gauges look tiny.

 

I am a little concerned the way that this thread has gone. There is a lot of talk about brands of subs, source units, power, wiring etc...none of these items can give you incredible, clean and loud bass on their own. The true key to the kind of bass that will change your life forever is not how much money you spend or which company markets their products the best or even which installer recommends what product. It comes down to a few things that can change the way you look at bass forever.

- enclosure design
- enclosure placement
- port design
- port placement

Tuning frequency also plays a very important part in how you want your bass to sound. When it comes to accurate, deep and realistic sounding bass there must be a lot of thought that goes into the design of the system's enclosure. I can make a cheap 10" sub sound better than a JLW7 stuffed in a pre-fab box any day of the week. I just wish other people would realize these facts instead of spouting off their favorite brands as the new gospel when more time should be spent on system design.

Thanks for reading.

 

I agree with the choice of speakers/subs, design of enclosure & placement along with the port design/placement.... As Long as the Head Unit has at least a little more than the minimums like built in eq. and so fourth. And finally an amp that can relate to the adjustments of the Head unit (that is if folks are not adding a additional eq. 4 band parametric equalizers). To share my favorite and not the "Top of the Line" of it's models. I been a "Pioneer" fan. There SuperTuner head units have awesome signal with receptions. most have Built in Eq. and all around an Awesome product for the price. Before I changed the Head unit on my 94 VW Golf3. I had one 10" pioneer in a 4th order Bandpass box that was built from this installer thru a friend. And He flat out told me. "I can add one Sub and one amp.(2ch) to your stock head unit along with the stock speakers and you will be happy. Great to have good friends that has good hook up for honest advice. Cause I miss that ride.

BTW....I just happen to buy and try the Cedarslink. I just happen to know the Dealer for over 25+ years.

So Mr. Orgasm_Donor, You being in the field and trade in this field I hope someday when I put together a system for my boys when they drive. I can get your input on the blueprint of design.

Appreciate everybody's knowledge in this subject.....

xpskier@gmail.com

 

Absolutely!

I have been a JL Audio and Digital Designs dealer for many years now and its extremely hard to get on board with JL Audio subwoofers. I have all DD in my 2003 350Z and I do compete with it in IASCA sanctioned competitions quite often. It wins. A LOT. I have a single 3510 in a custom ported enclosure with 2300 watts RMS powering it.

So I decided to give JL another chance in my 2010 Honda Fit so I bought 2X JL Audio 10W6V3's, a JL HD1200.1 for them and a JL HD600.4 for my Morel Supremo's that I bought - running active through an ARC PS8. So after putting my two W6's in a proper (and custom) built sealed enclosure slightly oversized for a bit more bottom end I was...well, disappointed. They sounded a bit flat and undefined - to the point where my bass was just underwhelming. It was loud, but lacked response. I was gutted.

So then I tried a DD pre-build box with a 10" basic cheapie sub in it (300 series), powered that with my 1200.1 and it took it like a champ! It was incredible the amount of clean, clear bass that came out of that thing. Now I am going to do a 3512 in a custom ported enclosure tuned to about 36 hz so I can have great bass and still compete in SQ.

My JL rep is looking for a new home for my two W6's.

Oh and for the record, I have tried 10W7's, 12W7's and 13W7's in several different custom built enclosures and I have never been impressed with them. Way too expensive, not loud and not clear enough for me. My DD 3512 completely destroyed the W7's in every way, shape and form and cost almost half as much (retail). I do really like the HD amplifiers though and the C3 component speakers are great too for the price.