Issues with st800 install
01-09-2012, 11:45 PM
#1
Issues with st800 install
So I had a friend install the ST800 in my Z... He had already done the same to his, so I figured he'd know what he's doing.
Everything is wired correctly, based on the DIY found here: https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video-...tallation.html
Put the car back together, and nothing is working properly. The car locks, but doesn't unlock. Seems like the polarity is wrong. When the key is set to the On position, pressing lock or unlock also turns on the wipers. Pressing trunk release also turns the wipers on/off.
When I try to start the car, I press my foot on the brake, set the button to the On position, and as soon as I press in the clutch, the car cranks up and starts. Doesn't go off of the button, but off of the clutch. Every time I press the clutch in, and it hits that neutral safety switch, the starter grinds.
I think I have a bad main unit. Anyone care to assist? I have no idea what's going on. Gonna try to contact Auto-Innovatio in the morning.
Everything is wired correctly, based on the DIY found here: https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video-...tallation.html
Put the car back together, and nothing is working properly. The car locks, but doesn't unlock. Seems like the polarity is wrong. When the key is set to the On position, pressing lock or unlock also turns on the wipers. Pressing trunk release also turns the wipers on/off.
When I try to start the car, I press my foot on the brake, set the button to the On position, and as soon as I press in the clutch, the car cranks up and starts. Doesn't go off of the button, but off of the clutch. Every time I press the clutch in, and it hits that neutral safety switch, the starter grinds.
I think I have a bad main unit. Anyone care to assist? I have no idea what's going on. Gonna try to contact Auto-Innovatio in the morning.
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01-12-2012, 06:43 PM
#10
So Sean from Auto Innovatio emailed me back. We've been going back and forth a bit, because he's been trying to figure this out with me... Asked me for a video, because I mentioned that when the button is in the ON position, any button on the remote turned on the wipers... Just one of the issues I'm having. Enjoy
http://youtu.be/wpIZWcfZIUc
http://youtu.be/wpIZWcfZIUc
01-12-2012, 08:04 PM
#11
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Did you just hook everything up per the DIY or did you use a volt meter and verify all wiring before making any connections? With todays cars there are multiple wires of the same color around the BCM and ECU. Using a volt meter is the only way to know if you have the correct wire 100%.
What I would do, at this point, is uninstall everything and make sure nothing in the car has been damaged. A wrong connection could fry your BCM which controls your windshield wipers. It is unlikely anything has been damaged, but before you start troubleshooting you need to have a solid "base". Also, based off of the problems you are describing it is doubtful that there is only one wire hooked up incorrectly - it sounds like multiple things have been connected improperly.
Once everything is uninstalled start checking the wires one by one. Check the wiring guide with the unit and then verify, with a volt meter, it is connected to the correct place in the car. Unfortunately, the skill of finding a wiring, metering it with a DMM, and then knowing if it is the correct wire or not is typically what separates professional installers from "buddies who installed their own in their garage".
What I would do, at this point, is uninstall everything and make sure nothing in the car has been damaged. A wrong connection could fry your BCM which controls your windshield wipers. It is unlikely anything has been damaged, but before you start troubleshooting you need to have a solid "base". Also, based off of the problems you are describing it is doubtful that there is only one wire hooked up incorrectly - it sounds like multiple things have been connected improperly.
Once everything is uninstalled start checking the wires one by one. Check the wiring guide with the unit and then verify, with a volt meter, it is connected to the correct place in the car. Unfortunately, the skill of finding a wiring, metering it with a DMM, and then knowing if it is the correct wire or not is typically what separates professional installers from "buddies who installed their own in their garage".
01-13-2012, 12:44 AM
#12
Did you just hook everything up per the DIY or did you use a volt meter and verify all wiring before making any connections? With todays cars there are multiple wires of the same color around the BCM and ECU. Using a volt meter is the only way to know if you have the correct wire 100%.
What I would do, at this point, is uninstall everything and make sure nothing in the car has been damaged. A wrong connection could fry your BCM which controls your windshield wipers. It is unlikely anything has been damaged, but before you start troubleshooting you need to have a solid "base". Also, based off of the problems you are describing it is doubtful that there is only one wire hooked up incorrectly - it sounds like multiple things have been connected improperly.
Once everything is uninstalled start checking the wires one by one. Check the wiring guide with the unit and then verify, with a volt meter, it is connected to the correct place in the car. Unfortunately, the skill of finding a wiring, metering it with a DMM, and then knowing if it is the correct wire or not is typically what separates professional installers from "buddies who installed their own in their garage".
What I would do, at this point, is uninstall everything and make sure nothing in the car has been damaged. A wrong connection could fry your BCM which controls your windshield wipers. It is unlikely anything has been damaged, but before you start troubleshooting you need to have a solid "base". Also, based off of the problems you are describing it is doubtful that there is only one wire hooked up incorrectly - it sounds like multiple things have been connected improperly.
Once everything is uninstalled start checking the wires one by one. Check the wiring guide with the unit and then verify, with a volt meter, it is connected to the correct place in the car. Unfortunately, the skill of finding a wiring, metering it with a DMM, and then knowing if it is the correct wire or not is typically what separates professional installers from "buddies who installed their own in their garage".
When we hooked up the door locks, we used the Nissan Service Manual for the 06 350Z. We even tried removing the KP Technologies window rollup module, and connecting at those wires, but removed the module so we wouldn't cause any interference with that
01-13-2012, 02:56 AM
#13
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The blue wire on the KPtechnologies module connects to the LOCK wire of the car. However, there is no connection to the UNLOCK wire.
I, personally, wouldn't even be worried about the door locks right now. I would focus first on the windshield wiper issue (most likely an incorrect connection at BCM) and then the issue where the starter cranks when you push the clutch all the way down (either starter relay wired incorrectly or starter relay defective on the aftermarket system).
Only after you get the important stuff working would I even start thinking about door locks.
I, personally, wouldn't even be worried about the door locks right now. I would focus first on the windshield wiper issue (most likely an incorrect connection at BCM) and then the issue where the starter cranks when you push the clutch all the way down (either starter relay wired incorrectly or starter relay defective on the aftermarket system).
Only after you get the important stuff working would I even start thinking about door locks.
01-13-2012, 03:45 AM
#14
You sure he didn't tap into the wrong wires somewhere? I installed mine from start to finish 100% by myself I took my time and did one wire at a time. You might want to just start over like mentioned above. Sounds like maybe the wire for the blinkers were hooked up to the wipers or something crazy like that I guess. Just because all buttons cause the lights to flash.
Just a thought, I am no guru. I have only installed this and a few car stereos before installing this. But I will help however I can.
Just a thought, I am no guru. I have only installed this and a few car stereos before installing this. But I will help however I can.
01-13-2012, 11:59 AM
#15
The blue wire on the KPtechnologies module connects to the LOCK wire of the car. However, there is no connection to the UNLOCK wire.
I, personally, wouldn't even be worried about the door locks right now. I would focus first on the windshield wiper issue (most likely an incorrect connection at BCM) and then the issue where the starter cranks when you push the clutch all the way down (either starter relay wired incorrectly or starter relay defective on the aftermarket system).
Only after you get the important stuff working would I even start thinking about door locks.
I, personally, wouldn't even be worried about the door locks right now. I would focus first on the windshield wiper issue (most likely an incorrect connection at BCM) and then the issue where the starter cranks when you push the clutch all the way down (either starter relay wired incorrectly or starter relay defective on the aftermarket system).
Only after you get the important stuff working would I even start thinking about door locks.
So I talked to the guy at auto innovatio again. he said the clutch issue is fixed by bypassing the switch at teh back of the clutch. he said that was required, for the system to work correctly, as far as starting the car goes.
Would you happen to know a quick and painless way to bypass that switch? my friend, who did the install, said he put a spaded the swith, and ran a wire from there, directly to his starter...
You sure he didn't tap into the wrong wires somewhere? I installed mine from start to finish 100% by myself I took my time and did one wire at a time. You might want to just start over like mentioned above. Sounds like maybe the wire for the blinkers were hooked up to the wipers or something crazy like that I guess. Just because all buttons cause the lights to flash.
Just a thought, I am no guru. I have only installed this and a few car stereos before installing this. But I will help however I can.
Just a thought, I am no guru. I have only installed this and a few car stereos before installing this. But I will help however I can.
Last edited by dmroberson; 01-13-2012 at 12:32 PM.
01-13-2012, 08:15 PM
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Ok, we'll take a look at all of the connections this weekend.
So I talked to the guy at auto innovatio again. he said the clutch issue is fixed by bypassing the switch at teh back of the clutch. he said that was required, for the system to work correctly, as far as starting the car goes.
Would you happen to know a quick and painless way to bypass that switch? my friend, who did the install, said he put a spaded the swith, and ran a wire from there, directly to his starter...
So I talked to the guy at auto innovatio again. he said the clutch issue is fixed by bypassing the switch at teh back of the clutch. he said that was required, for the system to work correctly, as far as starting the car goes.
Would you happen to know a quick and painless way to bypass that switch? my friend, who did the install, said he put a spaded the swith, and ran a wire from there, directly to his starter...
The clutch interlock switch is wired in series with the ignition switch. It goes battery power --> ignition switch --> clutch interlock --> starter. Your starter output of the unit should be connected directly to the output of the clutch interlock. This will allow the clutch interlock to work as designed for normal starting of the car but will bypass it when remote starting the car (if this system doesn't have remote start you really should connect the starter output to the starter wire at the ignition switch and manually hold the clutch down each time you start the car. Additionally, if you bypass the clutch interlock you MUST find a safe way to make sure the car won't start in gear - simply using a parking brake signal isn't good enough. I'm not sure if the unit you have is designed for manual transmissions or not - if it is great, make sure you follow the proper shutdown procedure and you won't have issues. If it is not designed for manual transmissions you need to tap in the P/NP switch to prevent the car starting if the tranny isn't in neutral.
01-15-2012, 08:37 PM
#17
Ok, so here's an update. My friend, who helped with the install, came over, and we pulled the main unit out of his car, and hooked it up to mine. Took a voltage reading, and the main unit is sending roughly 1-2v to unlock the doors. When we hooked my main unit back up, that one was only sending .02v. Clearly indicating that the main unit is bad.
Also, looks like the wipers are tapped into the wrong place in teh BCM, as well. We'll engage that tomorrow as well.
Ah, thanks for the info. Yeah, I didn't really like the idea of bypassing the switch. At this point, I was looking for a quick way to get the car up and running. From what my friend said, the clutch interlock is connected the way you recommended... from starter output to output of hte interlock. Looks like the relay that takes care of that may be bad. We're gonna try swapping that tomorrow as well.
Also, looks like the wipers are tapped into the wrong place in teh BCM, as well. We'll engage that tomorrow as well.
Bypassing this switch is neither the correct way to fix it or a safe thing to do. That clutch switch is a safety switch, bypassing it could lead to actually killing someone. If you bypass that switch and then let your roomate drive the car who tries to start it in gear in a parking lot without pushing the clutch in (say hes used to an automatic) and the car jumps forward and smashes someone between another car YOU will be held liable.
The clutch interlock switch is wired in series with the ignition switch. It goes battery power --> ignition switch --> clutch interlock --> starter. Your starter output of the unit should be connected directly to the output of the clutch interlock. This will allow the clutch interlock to work as designed for normal starting of the car but will bypass it when remote starting the car (if this system doesn't have remote start you really should connect the starter output to the starter wire at the ignition switch and manually hold the clutch down each time you start the car. Additionally, if you bypass the clutch interlock you MUST find a safe way to make sure the car won't start in gear - simply using a parking brake signal isn't good enough. I'm not sure if the unit you have is designed for manual transmissions or not - if it is great, make sure you follow the proper shutdown procedure and you won't have issues. If it is not designed for manual transmissions you need to tap in the P/NP switch to prevent the car starting if the tranny isn't in neutral.
The clutch interlock switch is wired in series with the ignition switch. It goes battery power --> ignition switch --> clutch interlock --> starter. Your starter output of the unit should be connected directly to the output of the clutch interlock. This will allow the clutch interlock to work as designed for normal starting of the car but will bypass it when remote starting the car (if this system doesn't have remote start you really should connect the starter output to the starter wire at the ignition switch and manually hold the clutch down each time you start the car. Additionally, if you bypass the clutch interlock you MUST find a safe way to make sure the car won't start in gear - simply using a parking brake signal isn't good enough. I'm not sure if the unit you have is designed for manual transmissions or not - if it is great, make sure you follow the proper shutdown procedure and you won't have issues. If it is not designed for manual transmissions you need to tap in the P/NP switch to prevent the car starting if the tranny isn't in neutral.
Last edited by dmroberson; 01-16-2012 at 01:19 AM.
01-16-2012, 02:33 AM
#18
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What is the voltage at rest on the door locks? Did you unhook the door lock wires before testing the output? The output should be very close to 0vdc as it should be a (-) output. Did the doors lock and unlock with his unit in your car?
What kind of door lock output does the unit have? Relays? Straight (-)?
What kind of door lock output does the unit have? Relays? Straight (-)?
01-16-2012, 03:05 AM
#19
I'm not sure what it was, at rest. However, I do know that we didn't unhook anything. When my friend metered it, with his main unit, the voltage increased up to 2v when pressing UNLOCK. The voltage only increased by .02v, when mine was installed.
Yes, with my friend's main unit, the doors DID unlock and lock correctly.
I believe the door locks are a straight connection from the main unit itself. Would have to look it up to verify.
Yes, with my friend's main unit, the doors DID unlock and lock correctly.
I believe the door locks are a straight connection from the main unit itself. Would have to look it up to verify.
Last edited by dmroberson; 01-16-2012 at 08:50 AM.