Mr. Grim

I'd hate to be "that guy" and start a new thread but before any of you tell me to go do some research, I have done hours of it. But I haven't quite all the answers I'm looking for.

I used to have an 06 sentra which I put 2 12" memphis subs (ported box) with a 200 watt memphis amp in the trunk. At max I felt some good thump in my chest and I was picking up some good lows. I want at least the same feeling in the system I'm going to purchase for my 07 enthusiast Z coupe.

I was thinking of using the head unit (50x4 watt) and 4 mids I had in my sentra and putting it in my Z, now the big dilemma is the subs and amp.

Of looked into the wicked CAS 13tw5 JL audio mounted behind the driver seat with 500 RMS watts supplied but I haven't found many people have it here. I've read it was great from one guy, but terrible from another (said he asked JL about it and they said .6 cubic feet is too small). Any reviews on that?

I was also thinking about getting the jl audio stealth box with the 2 10w3v3s and supplying that with 600watts.

Which would hit harder? Which one lower? Do you guys have any other setups (like with the Zenclosure box) that will cost less and thump around the same? I want to keep the trunk space behind the rear strut but willing to sacrifice infront of the strut bar.

I'm primarily looking for a system that I can feel, something on par or better than the system I had before but saving the most money possible at the same time. If it helps I'm going to be listening to metal, dubstep, and hip hop/rap most of the time.

Thanks guys I appreciate any input provided if not just thanks for reading.

RMichael

ear buds are less costly than huge speakers.

RMichael

for the most part anyway.

uberz33

i would go the zenclosures route, in fact, i did. it'll be much cheaper than the jl and cas boxes. i've never heard the cas box though...

Ak48z

iTrader: (2)

I have the 13w5 in my car but I had a custom box done in front of the strut bar. It was originally behind the driver side in a box (not wicked cas) and sounded like complete ****, so I don't have much faith in mounting in that area, wether it be driver or passenger side.

Sounds sick though and I kept my whole trunk open for luggage/etc.

Mr. Grim

I was thinking heavily of going that route because its hidden. Do you hear much rattling when its on high? How much power you pushing it with?

What do you got? So far I'm thinking about getting a single 10 inch zenclosure with a 10w3 and powering it with 300 to 500 watts. Biggest thing im worried about is the fitment. Do the zenclosure boxes bolt down? Do they move around in the car or do they stay right under the strut bar? And most importantly does it rattle?

Sorry with the 101 questions, I'm willing to spend $1000 on the subs box and amp for the Z and I want it to be well worth the money. Thanks guys, I'm glad you two replied, I was starting to lose faith in this forum for a second.

Ak48z

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if it was the box that was the problem or the location when I had it mounted in the driver side cubby, but it sounded terrible. Tons of rattles, output was lacking with such a small box to put it in. I had/have 750w going to it.

If you are willing to spend $1000 for box/amp/sub you will be fine.

I think your best option especially for rattles will be the zenclosure or a custom box in the hatch area and either a 10" or 12"

Grab an Audioque SDC2.5 10" with a 400-500rms amp... you will be at like 500-700 total.

Mr. Grim

Thanks a bunch for the advice man I really appreciate it. So far so many people are telling me to go with the zenclosure box. I'm pretty much sold cause I hear such good things about it and they're really cheap too. I just want to make sure I can take it to the track with me (circuit not drag) and it won't move out of place. I'm also worried about it rattling. I'm planning on doing the installation myself, and the less problems I run into the better.

JMII

That's my worry... rattles. I got the SRQ glove-box enclosure and will be putting a Polk MM 12" back there but will only 250 watts. Not really care about loud, more intrested in quality. This sub sounded great in my last car (VW Passat) mounted in the trunk in a small sealed box. So I figured for $100 I'd try it, if the rattles drive me nuts I switch out to under-the-strut option but I really want to keep my hatch space.

Ak48z

iTrader: (2)

Im not exactly sure how the zenclosures mount but I don't think I have ever heard of them moving around. I don't guess alot of people add a box and then go race circuit either though lol. I know my box is not going anywhere, unless I roll the car or something.

As far as rattling goes... You should pick up some dynomat or damplifier with the extra change you have from the budget. It is worth its weight in gold if you apply it right.

I think I have one or two rattles I still need to fix that come on with the right note. I think it is a couple of the plastics in the trunk hitting each other. I bought some felt pads to modify and use there.

Oh and both of you guys should report back after getting the installs done.

JMII

I'll have full write up going in the audio build section. Still about 2 weeks away - my amp was on back order, plus I need to grab some wiring and dynamat for sure.

abretz89

I actually just picked up a zenclosure box from a member in Tampa. I was worried too how it was going to be secured but it fits like a glove. You just slide it under the strut bar and good to go it is definitely not moving at all. If you have the trunk carpet in it makes it that much tighter.

I'm in the middle of my install now, the Z is in my garage practically gutted waiting on FatMat. I'll let you know about any rattles from the strut bar with the box being right up against it.

Mr. Grim

Sounds good brah, within the next week I'll be ordering the parts for my build. I'm also going to put some fatmat in. Let me know how that fatmat worked for you. Went to the local shop for ***** n giggles and they wanted $1100 for installation and buying their sub and amp. Crazy bastards, I'm going to do it myself and order from ebay.

90.00 FATMAT
165.00 JL 10w3v3-4 SUB
27.00 3 YEAR WARRANTY
295.00 JL XD600/1
42.00 2 YEAR WARRANTY
107.00 Z ENCLOSURES BOX
___________________
726.00 TOTAL OF EVERYTHING I NEED SHIPPED

abretz89

Well me and couple buddies busted out the FatMat today in about 7 hours. It looks pretty daunting but once you get started it just starts moving right along. we did 2 layers on the doors and just opening n closing them they already sound much more solid. When you do the hatch area make sure you remove the panels on the trunk lid too not just the trunk itself. I did notice tho that when you open the trunk after putting in the FatMat, the extra weight causes it to make a little thump when you pop it cause it drops back down on the latch slightly. Might have to get me some better struts since we all know the OEM's arent very strong to begin with. It probly only took us 50-60 sq ft to do all that so I might use the extra 40 ft I have to do the headliner as I hear it make a big difference. We put the panels back in around the spare tire area and strut bar and knocking on them we could tell there was a lot less rattle so I think it should sound pretty good once the speakers are in. I will say I now know why audio shops charge as much as they do to install sound deadening haha. It's not what I would consider a fun job.

Thats not a bad price for all the stuff your buying. I would suggest though, if you can find some deals, to go ahead and get some components for the doors and coaxials for the rears now while your already pulling the head unit. Your probly gonna end up replacing sometime anyway and if you do it now it'll save you from having to pull those panels off again to run speaker wire to the rears since you can't use the factory wiring.

The owner of Zenclosures, Mike, is a great guy as well and his stuff is definitely quality. It's just him, his wife and son so they can make sure everything that ships out is sound. I needed an amp rack for mine because the guy I bought the box from didnt get one originally. I emailed him on Sunday about it, he had it made up Monday and shipped it out this morning and threw in some speaker spacers. You'll definitely be pleased with your box.

Mr. Grim

Parts have been ordered. AMP is already on its way. I'm going to be using my Pioneer deh-3200ub and my Memphis 6.5 woofers for front and rear speakers.

Mr. Grim

7 hours. Sounds like I gotta get a buddy of mine to come over. & hours.... That's a lot of beer I'm going to have.

abretz89

It's all the cutting you have to do to cover all the small spots. The doors are the most tedious followed by the space behind the seats.

Also, when your laying the mat, make sure to take note of where the plastic trim clips back into the body and cut the mat in those spots. Some spots are depressed into the metal so when u lay the mat down you can see where you need to cut. A lot of the small holes you'll see aren't used for the trim clips so ou don't need to cut all of them. We used a Sharpie to put an X by the holes while holding the trim pieces up to body to keep track of the ones we needed to clear.

=Cerberus=

iTrader: (1)

I am friends with Nazar at Wicked CAS, and he installed their corner box with a 10" WX, and a 700/5 JL amp and it sounds fantastic. I did not lose any hatch space either, which is a big plus.

JMII

Got any pics?

If my SRQ glove box does work out I think the corner box is next best route since (as mention) you don't lose any hatch space.

Too bad they don't make left and right boxes, that way you could run TWO 10"s and not lose any space.

orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

I have a single 10" DD Audio in my 350 and a custom ported enclosure that I made and it is absolutely punishing and looks pretty hot too. Basically, I am a strong believer in building enclosures to the subwoofer's spec while at the same time creating an attractive showpiece. I understand that these things can be pretty cost-preventative but when it comes to your baby, isn't she worth it?