Over thanksgiving I had Nazar put in my system while i was home. I had one 10W7 in his enclosure under the strut bar, but when i was doing it I couldn't decide whether i wanted one or two 10W7s. He said that we could put one in, and then if i wanted more to come back over christmas and he would swap the box out and put in two. One was enough bass on most songs, but i want my ears to bleed. I was also gonna put XM in. When i got there, there the box for 2 10" was not cut, but there was one cut for 3 10". I ditched the XM and put in 3 10W7s.

Head Unit : Alpine CDA 9815

Door: Alpine SPX-177A component 2 ways

Behind Seat: SPR-174A coaxial 2 ways

DVD Screen: TME M760 6.5"

DVD Player: Panasonic DV1500

JL Audio 450 x 4: (150 W to each of the doors, and 75 W each behind the seats)

JL Audio 1000 W for the 3 W7s.

The pics are not the best, i took them with my phone, but Nazar has alot more.

The back of the box is perfectly flush with the strut bar.




The dash.








Nazar is definitely the person to go through if you live anywhere remotely close to his shop. By remotely close i mean somewhere in the US. What you lose in gas you will make up in his prices and service.

 

Answer this question for me please. In a car, where you will get 20+db of cabin gain, why do people put 1000+watt amps and subs capable of handeling this power in their cars? Is destroying your ears somthing you want to do? I wouldn't even put a sub with that much power in my home for music listening purposes(movies, on the other hand, is a totally different ball game). But anyway, enjoy your system.

 

yes, i want them to bleed.

 

Nice Setup! I'm not pushing near the power you are, but I like my setup nonetheless. See the sig.

 

lmao...you want some REAL spl there, huh. I say get a zapco 9.0xd instead of the jl 1000/1; 2000w amp, underrated

Only one kind of bass...not enough!

 

Using an amplifier with more power will help to control speakers under load thus allowing for more accurate speaker response at a given voume. Its not always about how loud you can play it, but how loud you can play and still control the speakers. I personally like accurate playback and would definately make sure the amps are powerful enough to play loud and accurate, but would only play it loud to show off and not for normal listening. I personally have some huge monoblock amps for my home audio system that produce 400W per channel of class A power at 4 ohms and 1200W per channel of class AB power at 4 ohms on demand. Is this too much? Well, the amps control the speakers without breaking a sweat, thus allowing the music to simply flow from the speakers. I no longer use a sub in my home audio system because of this. Simply no need. The same can be said for a car audio system. Of course some amps are better than others and some will claim big numbers but it is more marketing hype than anything else so you still need to do your research.

 

I've heard the "higher wattage" arguement before. I use it myself when talking to many people. But it isn't actually the wattage that enables an amp to drive the speakers well. Things like slew rate, crosstalk, THD are (when good) what enable an amp to drive a speaker well. You have amps like yours, with more power than you'll ever need and single ended triode amps that both sound wonderful. In the case of car audio, more powerfull is better is an arguement that probably works most of the time. Considering, those amps are designed to make tons of power with as little amperage as possible and keep as cool as possible. Sound quality is probably at the lower end of the list with most amps. Although, 1000, even 500 watts for your subs and especially your mains is still over kill. You won't find maggies in your car (although, that would be nice). The drivers they design are more sensative and efficient than the tipical ones used in home audio applications. You would need less than 1 (read 1) watt of power to get 90+ or so db in your car BEFORE you accound for the cabin gain. Now, if your a db dragracer, then by all means, get as powerful an amp as you want. But, in my veiws, for the large majority of car speakers you DON't need even 500 watt amps (you probably don't need even 100 watts to make your subs play at painful levels) to make your music loud enough. Especially when you consider that most of the car audio subs people buy (read SONY XPLODE crap) has an Xmech of like 5mm, which is hardly anything. I think my computer speakers have more travel.

 

That looks really great. You might break your rear window!

 

What is the internal volume of the enclosure. Surely it's not sufficient for 3 10W7s with a recommended volume of at least 1 CF each. Is the enclosure really at least 3 cubic feet inside? I've been trying to find this out for some time, but no one seems to know.

Also, isn't 333 watts per W7 a bit low for them? I thought they were happier at 500 watts. It just seems to me you would be better served with 3 10W6s.

Stu

 

haha holy crap stu, you're on this board as well? Where are my amber buttons!! ha ha j/k.. I was thinking the same exact thing, this is a very innefficient setup...

 

wow nice setup what size are your subs? my question is aren't you concerned with the weight that has been added? 2 10w7 with the 1000watt amp would have been enough. w7 are heavy