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speaker wires through doors now problems any ideas

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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:30 AM
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Default speaker wires through doors now problems any ideas

ok so i started at like 12:30 yesterday put in my new deck then started running the speaker wire to the doors through the plugs i was very careful not to hit the pins. did the pass side first tested the windows locks eveything it worked then started the driver side got everything ran went to test it the windows dont work locks dont work on eaither side.
my quick think made me try putting the key in the door to roll them up it worked and the little feature were it rolls up when you open the doors works. what do u think it could be.
im going out to look in a bit
bent pins
plugs not seated
idk
thx for the help
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:38 AM
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Was your battery disconnected when you did the installation?
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 07:50 AM
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Of course it was I dident put the gray levers back on cause I couldent figure it out last night cause it was like 30 degrees and windy and dark lol I just wanted to get it all back together and I would figure the levers out later I pushed the plug in a lil bit. Now the driver window mirror and door locks work I can't roll the pass window down from the driverside and havent tryed the pass side I'm just false to have my window lol
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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everything works just lose plugs
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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I still don't know why people take the chance of messing things up by running speaker wires through the molex plug . There are better options .
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:21 PM
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I wanted a clean oem looking set up. The hardest part was running the wires through the boot. There's pleanty of room in the molex plug. The dremel I had was taking to long I just used a propane torch and heated up a big *** screw driver and it ate through that ***** like butter getting 16 gauge speaker wire through is the hard part
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TURBOROADSTER
I still don't know why people take the chance of messing things up by running speaker wires through the molex plug . There are better options .
What are the better options? I was thinking about going through the molex plug when I start my audio install in the spring. I would like to have some other options if there out there.
Thanks
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by skoke70
What are the better options? I was thinking about going through the molex plug when I start my audio install in the spring. I would like to have some other options if there out there.
Thanks
drill holes.

the molex was easy its getting the wire trough the boot thats a ***** making the hole in the molex took less the 10 seconds per plug
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:45 AM
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I used the factory wiring. You're not going to over power that wire. I'm running a 900W RMS 5 Channel to my 2 subs and to the Eclipse front components and Memphis rear 2-ways. Clear and crisp and pleeeeenty loud. I just ran speed wire from the amp back up to the factory wiring harness behind the deck for the fronts. I DID run new wire to the subs and the rear speakers. The fronts were just too much of a hassle to worry about
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RENFRO
I used the factory wiring. You're not going to over power that wire. I'm running a 900W RMS 5 Channel to my 2 subs and to the Eclipse front components and Memphis rear 2-ways. Clear and crisp and pleeeeenty loud. I just ran speed wire from the amp back up to the factory wiring harness behind the deck for the fronts. I DID run new wire to the subs and the rear speakers. The fronts were just too much of a hassle to worry about
i just liked to have decicated wires that are better quality then oem just incase i decide to upgrade
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by R350Zz33
i just liked to have decicated wires that are better quality then oem just incase i decide to upgrade
X2
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RENFRO
I used the factory wiring. You're not going to over power that wire. I'm running a 900W RMS 5 Channel to my 2 subs and to the Eclipse front components and Memphis rear 2-ways. Clear and crisp and pleeeeenty loud. I just ran speed wire from the amp back up to the factory wiring harness behind the deck for the fronts. I DID run new wire to the subs and the rear speakers. The fronts were just too much of a hassle to worry about
I have 90% of my system bought and sitting in my office (missing door pods and deck) I have DLS UP6i going in my doors. My plan is to do it right the first time as I don't want to tear everything apart twice to replace the oem speaker wire. If there are any other options other then the molex I would sure like to hear them
thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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I think I just punched through the grommet back in like 07.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by skoke70
I have 90% of my system bought and sitting in my office (missing door pods and deck) I have DLS UP6i going in my doors. My plan is to do it right the first time as I don't want to tear everything apart twice to replace the oem speaker wire. If there are any other options other then the molex I would sure like to hear them
thanks
Here is what i did , remove kick panel and drill 1,2" hole that lines up with the grommet in the door (lower part). Snap plastic grommet(Hardware store). in the new hole . Make an x shaped cut in door grommet and feed a heavy duty wire loom through new hole and into door through the grommet . Push wire through the loom and your done . You can use black silicone caulk to seal both entrys to keep water out . Takes about 15 minutes per side without the wory of bending pins in the molex plug .



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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 06:10 AM
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mine looks alot cleaner then that.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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I've wired through the OEM connectors on countless cars, never had any issues. I've never been a fan of drilling unnecessary holes in cars, especially customer cars.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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I normally use the factory wires but for my ride I'm putting the crossovers under the seat because I might go active later on, thus I need TWO sets of wires in the door (tweeter + woofer). Not looking forward to this task but it has to be done.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by R350Zz33
mine looks alot cleaner then that.

Mine was very simple and effective , 15 minutes per side. Does not look that much different than the Oem rubber grommet. There are Stainless braided slides that you can put in there , but why when you can do the same thing for 60 cents per side . If you want to add your cleaner look to this thread, than post pics so that people have more ideas .
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Vivid Racing
I've wired through the OEM connectors on countless cars, never had any issues. I've never been a fan of drilling unnecessary holes in cars, especially customer cars.
agreed
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JMII
I normally use the factory wires but for my ride I'm putting the crossovers under the seat because I might go active later on, thus I need TWO sets of wires in the door (tweeter + woofer). Not looking forward to this task but it has to be done.
my crossovers are mounted in my door panels
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